|
Post by tahoegator on Jan 22, 2022 16:35:29 GMT -5
I am hoping for some folks who can compare any of an Erika 85, Festool TKS 80 and/or a proper cabinet saw to one or both of the others. Let me explain: I moved into a new house and my new workshop is smaller than my last one. Space is at a premium. I want to free up floor space and reduce dust. I currently own a 220 volt 3 hp Grizzly table saw with an attached router table. It is on wheels but still takes up a good bit of space. And it really requires my 2 hp dust collector which also takes up a lot of space. I am wondering if with the Erika or Festool table saw might give me some space back and help me reduce airborne dust? I’ve watched all the Erika videos on www.timberwolftools.com and poured though various online forums, including this one. Most posts are very favorable to the Erika and Festool table saws, except I have taken note of the occasional post complaining about the lack of solidity. I’ve seen comments that the rails are not sturdy enough, that they aren’t really that stable, that people miss the slots, etc. Anyone go from a proper heavy fully enclosed cabinet saw to either the Erika or Festool that can comment on what you miss and what you gained? Note: I am a hobby woodworker. Most of my work is furniture-making plus occasional home projects. I have most other major power tools (SCMS, Festool MFT with sliding saw, band saw, etc.). Pretend money isn’t a factor. I can make the cost decision based on any advice. Thank you for any thoughts!
|
|
|
Post by Knight Woodworks on Jan 23, 2022 16:41:16 GMT -5
Welcome to the MUF. Several years ago I experienced a similar situation. Downsized from a 3 hp Unisaw and 2 hp dust collector to an Erika 70 and a Festool Midi dust extractor.
The Erika with 1000 mm fence guide extensions has a similar footprint to a cabinet saw with 36" rails. Obviously a small dust extractor takes up less space that a 2 hp dust collector.
My experience has been that dust extraction is also similar.
The Erika 85 requires 250mm blades for a 30mm arbor. An unusual size in the US. It doesn't except a dado stack, or have T-slots. Both features I miss. I've been disappointed with both the cross cut table and the pull function. I can't get dependably accurate results with either. The slot in the table for the blade is wide, apx 7/16". Narrow rips tend to fall below and get caught in the dust collection housing creating hard to clear blockage. On a positive note, my 70 is a powerful saw, have never had an issue ripping hardwoods.
These are just my experiences. Many people get results they are happy with and don't miss these features. Ultimately I consider the Erika to be a top of the line portable saw but not really a replacement for stationary table saw.
Best of luck, let us know what you decide.
John
|
|
|
Post by newuser on Mar 26, 2022 4:55:19 GMT -5
Had use of the erika and TKS80 and unfortunately struggled to make good cuts with both. With the Erika I was not able to achieve consistent results on both the sliding table and rip saw without continually trying to recalibrate the difficult to fine adjust fence, I didn't want to buy anything else as the whole package is already so expensive.
TKS80 I still have but the extension rip has an alignment issue that can be fixed, however I am experiencing flexing on the sliding table that is marring straightness of cuts.
I am now wondering if the Erika with several miter slot rails would be the answer as third party gagues or a crosscut sled would be better than uncertainty of sliding table and the included could just be used for rip or to just get a normal small table saw which already has miter slots, just wary of my mindfulnesses on saw without a pull function or sawstop, such a pity neither festool or mafell saws allow easy addons. Only wonder if the slot being further from saw than normal would make accuracy on smaller cuts more difficult at that distance, might mean you’d have to use a sled or risk the gague flexing.
I am also wondering from user feedback if it is even reasonable to expect to be able to make larger accurate cuts on these saws? I really don’t want a cabinet saw, don’t have any proper dust collection either.
Oh and I did find using zero clearance strips helped with material falling into housing.
|
|
|
Post by matchesder on Mar 27, 2022 12:32:10 GMT -5
I think if one intends to add miter slots to Erika to use a cross cut sled, then Erika is not the right saw. There are much cheaper options that come with less hassle. If one has the room a sliding table saw like a Hammer K3 is a much better option than any portable table'ish saw intended for use on construction site. Hammer K3: www.felder-group.com/en-us/products/sliding-table-saws-c1947/sliding-table-saw-k3-p579501Tahoegator, if you have a cabinet saw, I think you are better of with it than with a portable saw. As John said, a fully equipped Erika also takes up a lot of space. Also the dust extraction is not perfect (I'm not saying its bad). I have connected a short 50 mm hose and find dust escaping. The issue is mainly at the end of a cut because the chips are being thrown towards you faster than any vacuum could suck them up. Regarding small parts falling down: you can slide a part of the black plastic cover of the dust extraction channel open to remove such pieces. I found them most of the time at the dust port or somewhere in the connected hose. The issues John and newuser are facing may be due to 2 factors: 1. Erika is a light portable saw (Probably the most capable but still portable and no match for a proper sliding table saw or maybe a cabinet saw) 2. Being a pull saw, the blade is slightly angled to get optimal results with the pull function. This angle is interfering with the other use cases. The sliding table runs parallel to the table, but not parallel to the blade. I added a 1 or 1.5 mm shim to the rail mount to compensate for this. If you try to use the scales for the alignment of the fence for rip cuts, you may find the upcoming teeth of the blade are cutting in the piece again. I aligned the extension rails to compensate this as well. In my opinion a design flaw wich could easily be fixed.
|
|
|
Post by MrToolJunkie on Apr 3, 2022 1:04:54 GMT -5
I have an Erika 85 and a 3 hp General 350. I do not use my General and it has a ton of stuff stored on it. I have found the Erika to cut just as good or better and it is more functional, allowing different cuts without jigs. It does not have miter slots, but with the pull function and sliding table I have not found a need for them. The fence is a little fiddly but locks parallel and is solid - some use Incra for better ease of use and repeatable accuracy. I have been using one of the extrusions and little clamps for a poor person's fence. It works for my needs. It is a heavy and awkward saw for portable - yes, it is portable, but I would not want to heft it around. In a shop it works fine and it does store compactly. I like that you can repurpose the tool for the task at hand. Add extensions and the sliding table when needed and use the base version when you do not.
|
|
tazio
New Member
Posts: 18
|
Post by tazio on Apr 3, 2022 8:30:04 GMT -5
I have just sold up my large joinery with full size panal saw etc … I am both a mafell and festool owner so I also couldn’t make up my mind between the Erika or the TKS80 either because I have downsized I have bought myself a ks120 and already own mafell rail saws so I didn’t feel I needed the extra adaptability of the Erika with its pull saw facility . Any way the TKS was delivered last week and once set up it has proved to be pretty accurate so I am happy with it ….however it is not made to replace a full size panal saw simply due to size and especially weight also of course the sliding table is some way from the blade , so as long as you are realistic with your expectations then it should be ok the sliding table is ok but pretty limiting, and if I was going to use it for very precise work then I would be inclined to follow AM Builds cart build and sled fit the TKS as the cart stiffens the saw up by adding weight and removing the folding legs helps to make the saw more stable it’s fine for site work but will benefit from the added stability for the workshop and the use of the sled means the saw becomes very accurate .
|
|