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Post by chojamage on Dec 21, 2020 21:45:57 GMT -5
Hello Folks,
I just received my MT55 18M BL. Just oozes quality, but the printed Users Manual is not of the same caliber, it’s 8.5 by 6 inches. The illustrations on pages 3 and 4 are too small and faint to make sense of the instructions referring to them. I tried zooming in on the users manual on-line but the resolution is too poor and the details become too blurry. Unfortunately the various videos on line that I could find don’t systematically walk you through all the functions. Or they are not in English and auto-translate gives ludicrous translations. The closest were some short videos on the Timberwolf Tools website, but they were in German, mostly gestures, but didn’t cover everything I need to know. I’m afraid of damaging the control knobs etc. of this splendid machine. Anyone have a solution? I would think I am not the first to run into this. I searched on this forum, but didn’t find this topic addressed. Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by lincoln on Dec 22, 2020 1:42:17 GMT -5
Anything in particular you need help with? I'm sure we can help you out. In the mean time, these vids might help -
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Post by aas on Dec 22, 2020 14:30:55 GMT -5
You're unlikely to break any control knobs.
Put the saw on the rail, snug the black star knobs on the base up so there is no slop between the saw and the rail, set your depth to 1 or 2mm more than the material you are cutting, engage the preset depth scoring lever if need be, first cut, second cut - done. The manual can get chucked in the back of the cupboard with the 100 or so manuals for all your other tools.
If there is anything more complicated than that, ask away, a lot of guys here with some decent experience on the MT55.
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Post by chojamage on Dec 24, 2020 23:54:38 GMT -5
Hi, Thanks for replying. (I had hoped to upload photos, but I don’t see a way to do that.) I had watch Skil builders before and I rewatch them now, but they didn’t answer the following.
1. For the depth micro adjustment (which I admit I probably won’t use for a while) when you are turning the cylinder screw (# 12 of Figure 4 in the instruction manual) should you see the depth stop (#11 of Figure 4) move? And after you use the micro adjustment do you have to reset it somehow to zero, or does it just automatically by its design start zero each time you start turning it anew, or does moving the main (1mm graduations)a depth stop (#11 of Figure 4) to zero reset the micro adjustment?
2. The instruction manual in section 5.10 says: “To achieve more accurate guidance, set the guide clearance with the two setting wheels.” (This is where I really wanted to show an annotated photo.) I found the two setting wheels (#21s on Figure 4) on the top of the base plate? But exactly what are you doing with those and the guide? The instruction manual is very vague, it gives no further info.
3. I bought the Bosch guide rails free reading in multiple sources that they are identical to Mafell’s. The first time I use them do I need to do anything special with the rubber splinter guard strips? Or just do a cut normally?
4. The Skil Builders’ video on the corded version points out the power of the Cuprex motor. The corded saw’s motor is clearly labeled “cuprex” with a tiger logo. I don’t see that on the cordless version, does the cordless version have the Cuprex motor or a lessor motor?
I’m sure I will think of more questions once I use it, but those are the ones I have now. Thanks again.
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Post by lincoln on Dec 25, 2020 7:11:26 GMT -5
The guide wheels tighten two 'runners' in the saw base that run against the upright rib on the guide rail. Tighten them to take any slop out of the saw/rail.
The cordless motor is brushless, so different to the Cuprex - sorry, that's all I know. I have had both and so far can't tell the difference as far as power goes.
The depth setting screw just dials in the correct depth so what you are reading on the scale is in fact accurate. You can use it if you use both 160mm and 162mm blades, for example. Or, if you have a blade that's been sharpened a number of times and you need the depth setting to be dead on accurate.
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Post by lincoln on Dec 25, 2020 7:13:34 GMT -5
Make your first cut on the rails with the blade 3mm below the strip. If you have two rails, join them so you can lead the saw on and then off the rail.
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Post by huntsgemein on Dec 25, 2020 17:56:55 GMT -5
What's a Users' Manual? I've heard of them of course, might have actually seen one or 2 many, many years ago. Don't recall ever having read one 'though.
My standard fallback protocol if things aren't working out well is to ask a teenager. They know everything!
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Post by aas on Dec 26, 2020 2:12:28 GMT -5
1.And after you use the micro adjustment do you have to reset it somehow to zero? 2.But exactly what are you doing with those and the guide? 3.The first time I use them do I need to do anything special with the rubber splinter guard strips? 4.does the cordless version have the Cuprex motor or a lessor motor? 1. You won't see the adjuster move, neither do you need to reset. As Lincoln mentioned, it's for sizing different size blades... I don't use it. 2. Easiest way to see is to slacken right off... then see how the saw base moves on the rail. Then tighten right up and you can literally pick the rail up with the saw. You want an in between setting where the saw glides nicely without being too tight or too loose. 3. Do step 2 above before cutting the splinter strips. I prefer to put the rail on some melamine board for trimming, and use the black lever for pre-score. 4. Cuprex is brushed, cordless is brushless - different technology for different needs.
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