Post by woodie on Oct 30, 2013 14:50:20 GMT -5
I tackled replacing the splinter guard on a few of my guide rails last weekend. Here are some pictures of the process.
The replacement splinter guard package comes with 3.4 meters of splinter guard and a pack of 4 of what I'll call locking wedges. The back of the package also includes a simple set of pictorial instructions.
Mafell's splinter guard doesn't use adhesive to attach to the rail, it's held in place via two interlocking profiles. With this design there's no chance of the splinter guard "unintentionally" falling off (cough, cough). In fact the hardest part of replacing the splinter guard is removing the old one. I'm jumping ahead with the next photo, but here's a closeup of the interlocking profiles.
Step 1: Remove the old splinter guard.
The easiest way to remove the old splinter guard is to make a small cut on the bottom side separating the two interlocking portions (see the picture below). This was the only way I could get the old splinter guard to pull out. The cut doesn't have to be long, just enough to let you get a decent grip (15-20mm). Grab both sides of the now split rubber and pull, as the material stretches it releases from both profiles on the guide rail.
Step 2: Cut your replacement splinter guard to length.
The instructions on the box indicate that you should add 1% to the length of the guide rail you're working with. That seemed a bit tight to me so I just cut mine an inch or so long.
Step3: Install the new splinter guard.
To install the new splinter guard you have to slide it in at one end of the guide rail and pull it across the length of the rail. The directions had a picture of soapy bubbles for this step so I mixed up some soap and water. I used Johnson's Head to Toe baby shampoo. I've used this for installing Zagg protective films and 3M's Rockguard paint protection films. Johnson's isn't oily and doesn't leave any film behind, however I would think most any soap would work. Just use as little as possible.
Step 4: Trim flush and install the locking wedges.
Once the splinter guard is on just trim your edges flush to the rail and insert a locking wedge in each end. As you can see below, I used a chisel to do the trimming. I did find it easier to trim from the top of the rail rather than the bottom as I'm showing in the photo.
There are four new wedges included with the splinter guard package. These have a D shaped insertion ring that you simply break off after the wedge is installed. A quick side note, you can re-use the wedges that came out with the old splinter guard. Just use something flat to push them in with (not your finger). Here's a shot of the wedges.
Below is a picture of the splinter guard with the locking wedge installed. There's what looks like half a dovetail on one side of the profile, this is where the wedge goes. Be sure to pinch on the splinter guard to keep it from pushing in as you drive the wedge in.
That's it! All in all this winds up being a very easy process.
The replacement splinter guard package comes with 3.4 meters of splinter guard and a pack of 4 of what I'll call locking wedges. The back of the package also includes a simple set of pictorial instructions.
Mafell's splinter guard doesn't use adhesive to attach to the rail, it's held in place via two interlocking profiles. With this design there's no chance of the splinter guard "unintentionally" falling off (cough, cough). In fact the hardest part of replacing the splinter guard is removing the old one. I'm jumping ahead with the next photo, but here's a closeup of the interlocking profiles.
Step 1: Remove the old splinter guard.
The easiest way to remove the old splinter guard is to make a small cut on the bottom side separating the two interlocking portions (see the picture below). This was the only way I could get the old splinter guard to pull out. The cut doesn't have to be long, just enough to let you get a decent grip (15-20mm). Grab both sides of the now split rubber and pull, as the material stretches it releases from both profiles on the guide rail.
Step 2: Cut your replacement splinter guard to length.
The instructions on the box indicate that you should add 1% to the length of the guide rail you're working with. That seemed a bit tight to me so I just cut mine an inch or so long.
Step3: Install the new splinter guard.
To install the new splinter guard you have to slide it in at one end of the guide rail and pull it across the length of the rail. The directions had a picture of soapy bubbles for this step so I mixed up some soap and water. I used Johnson's Head to Toe baby shampoo. I've used this for installing Zagg protective films and 3M's Rockguard paint protection films. Johnson's isn't oily and doesn't leave any film behind, however I would think most any soap would work. Just use as little as possible.
Step 4: Trim flush and install the locking wedges.
Once the splinter guard is on just trim your edges flush to the rail and insert a locking wedge in each end. As you can see below, I used a chisel to do the trimming. I did find it easier to trim from the top of the rail rather than the bottom as I'm showing in the photo.
There are four new wedges included with the splinter guard package. These have a D shaped insertion ring that you simply break off after the wedge is installed. A quick side note, you can re-use the wedges that came out with the old splinter guard. Just use something flat to push them in with (not your finger). Here's a shot of the wedges.
Below is a picture of the splinter guard with the locking wedge installed. There's what looks like half a dovetail on one side of the profile, this is where the wedge goes. Be sure to pinch on the splinter guard to keep it from pushing in as you drive the wedge in.
That's it! All in all this winds up being a very easy process.