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Post by rizzoa13 on Nov 30, 2017 6:40:32 GMT -5
I got mine last week and have used it more than any other saw this week. The dust extraction is literally perfect. I got sthe 90 degree drywall/wood folding blade, expanding groove cutter and slotting head. That things such a badass tool. can you describe specifically what projects you are using this for? Sure so I built a staircase and set stringers to meet up with the landing for 1/4” flooring to match the luxury vinyl downstairs. I finished the treads and didn’t like the way the vinyl would look on the landing between the steps. So I needed to put down oak flooring I made to match and needed to bring the subfloor down so it’s all marry up well. It was much easier to use the dado head and just rip the 3/4” plywood subfloor down then to try and pull the subfloor up and put 1/4” down. (Everything was wedged in between trim, steps and framing) There’s also zero dust or chips when used with an extractor. Another job I had tons of popcorn on ceilings and soffits in a condo. I folded drywall for all the soffits to laminate over the popcorn and it came out beautiful. Next I’ll use it to make column wraps out of Azek. Pretty much every job it’s solvig a problem for me so I’m very glad I got it. |
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Post by bicycleclip on Nov 30, 2017 8:41:45 GMT -5
For wood / ply applications the NFU-32 is more versatile, however, I hate the idea of being limited to the NFU (old school) type rail, which costs £500 to replace and is only 1 meter long. This seems especially unreasonable when all of my other saws and accessories (Cochrane square, FW-A angle, Aerofix, QWAS dogs) are geared to practically unlimited lengths of standard Mafell rails. A now apparently inactive contributor to this forum, padr mentioned that he had cut the base of his NFU-32 to make it compatible with the standard rails mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/27/hei-cutting-grooves-grooving-machinesHe also showed a picture which I've attac ![]() hed below. I'm considering emulating him, but he's not responded to my PM. Has anyone succeeded in cutting a slot in saw base? I'm worrying that, since the base is magnesium or an alloy thereof, it is essentially flammable. I'd be using my Erika to line up the base and control the blade height and speed. Any practical advice (beyond 'don't die and play nice?') Attachments:
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Post by arvid on Nov 30, 2017 11:22:29 GMT -5
can you describe specifically what projects you are using this for? Sure so I built a staircase and set stringers to meet up with the landing for 1/4” flooring to match the luxury vinyl downstairs. I finished the treads and didn’t like the way the vinyl would look on the landing between the steps. So I needed to put down oak flooring I made to match and needed to bring the subfloor down so it’s all marry up well. It was much easier to use the dado head and just rip the 3/4” plywood subfloor down then to try and pull the subfloor up and put 1/4” down. (Everything was wedged in between trim, steps and framing) There’s also zero dust or chips when used with an extractor. Another job I had tons of popcorn on ceilings and soffits in a condo. I folded drywall for all the soffits to laminate over the popcorn and it came out beautiful. Next I’ll use it to make column wraps out of Azek. Pretty much every job it’s solvig a problem for me so I’m very glad I got it. sounds amazing and I'm hating you for now tempting me to buy myself a Christmas present. looks like i'll be scavenging my shop for items to pace on eBay. |
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Post by bicycleclip on Nov 30, 2017 12:14:04 GMT -5
Sure so I built a staircase and set stringers to meet up with the landing for 1/4” flooring to match the luxury vinyl downstairs. I finished the treads and didn’t like the way the vinyl would look on the landing between the steps. So I needed to put down oak flooring I made to match and needed to bring the subfloor down so it’s all marry up well. It was much easier to use the dado head and just rip the 3/4” plywood subfloor down then to try and pull the subfloor up and put 1/4” down. (Everything was wedged in between trim, steps and framing) There’s also zero dust or chips when used with an extractor. Another job I had tons of popcorn on ceilings and soffits in a condo. I folded drywall for all the soffits to laminate over the popcorn and it came out beautiful. sounds amazing and I'm hating you for now tempting me to buy myself a Christmas present. looks like i'll be scavenging my shop for items to pace on eBay. Yeah sounds amazing but I needed to translate popcorn ceilings into UK english! |
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Post by arvid on Nov 30, 2017 14:08:59 GMT -5
sounds amazing and I'm hating you for now tempting me to buy myself a Christmas present. looks like i'll be scavenging my shop for items to pace on eBay. Yeah sounds amazing but I needed to translate popcorn ceilings into UK english! popcorn ceiling into UK English means Butt F@#$ing Ugly |
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Post by bicycleclip on Dec 1, 2017 2:43:20 GMT -5
Yeah sounds amazing but I needed to translate popcorn ceilings into UK english! popcorn ceiling into UK English means Butt F@#$ing Ugly Decoding those hieroglyphs using pattern recognition techniques that compare your phrase to recent posts on this forum, I’m pretty confident that you've just written something about bottom-banditry.. |
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Post by rizzoa13 on Dec 1, 2017 4:49:25 GMT -5
You UK gents are daft 🤣. Popcorn ceiling is a term referring to textured ceiling sprayed out of a gun or stippled on by dabbing a paint brush in spackle and poking it at the ceiling.
It’s butt ass ugly and a pain in the ass because once you scrape it off you still need to skim the entire ceiling. That’s why going over it can be a decent option.
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Post by holmz on Dec 1, 2017 7:11:24 GMT -5
You UK gents are daft 🤣. Popcorn ceiling is a term referring to textured ceiling sprayed out of a gun or stippled on by dabbing a paint brush in spackle and poking it at the ceiling. It’s butt ass ugly and a pain in the ass because once you scrape it off you still need to skim the entire ceiling. That’s why going over it can be a decent option. Tango time! |
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Post by bicycleclip on Dec 2, 2017 14:01:43 GMT -5
Another thing I’m wondering about is how good the MF26 is for cutting rabbets, say to fit a backboard to a cabinet. Is the only way to use the rail?
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Post by rizzoa13 on Dec 2, 2017 18:24:23 GMT -5
I mean you can freehand the dado without the rail but I don’t see that going well. Can also use the parallel edge guide in some circumstances. Why would you not want to use the guide rail? That’s what makes the thing so damn useful.
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Post by bicycleclip on Dec 20, 2017 6:37:58 GMT -5
Just purchased an MF26, a bit like a Christmas Present to myself. Thanks Santa.
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Post by holmz on Dec 20, 2017 10:11:51 GMT -5
Magnesium has been used for mag wheels and engine blocks when performance out classed safety.
I have machined it, but properly so, and not using a plasma tourch or grinder.
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Post by bicycleclip on Dec 20, 2017 13:04:42 GMT -5
Magnesium has been used for mag wheels and engine blocks when performance out classed safety. I have machined it, but properly so, and not using a plasma tourch or grinder. Good. The unknown variables i.e. how safely and accurately I could cut the base of the NFU 32 to accept rails, caused me to doubt it as an option You’ve confirmed my pecuniary and survival instincts. Besides, the full plunge mechanism of the MF26 is going to be nicer to use and perhaps also safer than the spring-back guard of the NFU32. I can’t wait to try it out, gonna groove baby. |
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