|
Post by fredgab on Nov 13, 2017 12:30:11 GMT -5
Hi folks,
thats my first post on here but I've been lurking around for a long time.
Already possessor of the p1cc and kss400 36v and lot's of festools green, I'm about to take the plunge for the Mafell Erika 85.
I already own the festool mft and ts55 that I used since 4 years, as much as I loved the system for it's clean cuts for panels and pretty good dust extraction, I would prefer to keep it for assembly and the festool domino. Certain tasks are just too much fiddling around compared to a table saw(small rips cuts for example), changing height of the track is also annoying.
Therefore, I'm planning to get as full as a kit for the erika, sliding table, extensions, drop stops and telescopic fence.
My type of work involve lots of miters on long parts,long rips, small pieces to cut , bevel cuts on panels and some aluminium profiles cutting.
I'm now questioning myself on the right dust extraction for the saw, I see that some people uses two Bosch vacs but I would prefer a bigger single unit as I wont move it a lot (but I like the fact that you can move it away to make more space), are they any good solution for that in europe?
I was wondering also how much of a hassle is to switch from the sliding table saw to a pull-cut with the mfa and extensions, I can't figure out how the sliding attachments would interfere on the dovetail extrusions.
Cheers Fred
|
|
|
Post by Tom Gensmer on Nov 13, 2017 21:42:45 GMT -5
Hi Fred!! I have the full Erika 70 setup and have been very happy with it. For your question about whether the Erika will replace a MFT for processing panels, I would answer with a conditional "Yes". The conditional part is, you will still want to use your track saw to break down 4x8 or 5x5 panels into smaller pieces, which you would then take to the Erika for precision sizing. "Take the small thing to the big thing" With the sliding table, you'll get roughly 32"/800mm cross cutting capacity, and with the 1m table extensions you can expect approximately 25"/650mm ripping capacity. As for switching between using the sliding table versus the pull function: Installing the sliding table monopolizes the left side dovetail. That being said, adding or removing the sliding table only involves two bolts and takes less than 60 seconds. You can also lock the sliding table in place. As for dust extraction, I am aware of people using multiple vacuum units in an effort to achieve "complete" dust collection, but I've generally been quite happy with a single dust extractor rated in the 120cfm+ category using a 36mm hose. If you're looking for greater suction in a single package, you can look at: Hilti VC-300: This is HILTI's biggest and baddest dust collector. This vac is rated at 300cfm with high static pressure, more than double the Bosch. At ~$1500, it also costs double or triple the Bosch. This should be available in Europe. www.hilti.com/dust-management/vacuum-cleaners-%26-accessories/vacuum-cleaners/r7496695Oneida Dust Cobra: This is next on my list for primarily shop-based dust extraction. I recently bought a Mini-Gorilla for use with my tools with 4" ports, and I've been so happy with it that I'd like to try the Dust Cobra for my tools with 2" and smaller ports, such as my Erika, Castle pocket hole machine, CMS router table, etc.... ~245cfm, high static pressure, available in 220v, integrated cyclone, ~$1,400. Not sure if Oneida ships to Europe or not. www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=XCKM010000-IND&CatId={88398A7C-ADBE-46C7-976A-AEAD1AE24147}I hope this helps! Best, Tom
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Nov 14, 2017 3:03:14 GMT -5
I put a Bosch rail on an MFT... And while the squareness of it is questionable... I find a table and the MFT can be handy for cuts that do not require the concept envy of repeatable Erika cuts...
|
|
|
Post by fredgab on Nov 14, 2017 7:49:11 GMT -5
Awesome, thanks for your fast response ! I didn't know this hilti vacuum, I might check it as there's an hilti store near me, the oneida looks great but I'm afraid the shipping will cost too much... The two Bosch vacs might be a cheaper solution after all. Now I think I can see better how the sliding table attach to the table and how you need to remove it for mfa use and pull cuts. I'm aware of the crosscutting capacity and I already break down sheets with the track saw, and 800mm is already better than the mft in it's normal position! (actualy erika 85 sould be even more than 800, no?)
Another question concerning the markings on the 1000mm extensions, how does it work? Do you just align some numbers to the table marking ? I'm ready to order I think!
Cheers, fred
|
|
|
Post by Tom Gensmer on Nov 14, 2017 17:59:16 GMT -5
Hi Fred!!
Regarding the VC 3000 vac: In the USA new rules recently went into effect about exposure to airborne silica. Part of the guidelines involve a calculation that dictates the airflow/CFM of a vacuum system based on the diameter of the cutting tool. My understanding is that Hilti is marketing the VC 300 specifically as a extractor rated to work with their 14" electric concrete saw. That being said, I'm sure it would work fine for woodworking.
My preference would be for the Dust Cobra, but like you say I'd imagine it may be difficult and/or prohibitively expensive to get one in Europe.
For the 1m table extensions, I'm a little hazy as to the best, fastest way to set them up (I'm dying to attend a Mafell training course!!). If I'm just making a few cuts and don't mind whether the markings line up, then I just flush the profile up with the edge of the edge of the dovetail and call it good.
If, on the other hand, I want the 1m table extensions indexed t the blades here's what I am doing: 1. Slide the near-side extension on to the dovetail 2. Slide the ripping fence (doesn't matter which one) on to the table extension, and lock it down on one of the "0" marks, generally the second or third from the left 3. Make sure the fence is canted to allow for the blade toe-in (I've found a business card works well for this) 4. Lock the blade in the middle ripping position 5. Gently slide the table extension over until the fence is approximately 1 Hair (Blonde) away from the blade teeth 6. Lock table extension in place 7. Position far-side table extension in roughly the same position, it shouldn't matter if it's perfect.
Again I'm sure there's a better, faster way, but this is what seems to work for me for now.
Hope this helps!
|
|
|
Post by oncomeme on Nov 15, 2017 22:50:39 GMT -5
I don't use the extensions as I made a much lighter weight "extension table" out of 80/20 that suits my needs better, but if I wanted to line up the zero point on them quickly I'd probably just put a piece of tape on a good level (or one of the giant Woodpeckers triangles if you have one), butt the taped area right up against the teeth and read off the non-taped edge where it hangs over the edge.
|
|
|
Post by bicycleclip on Nov 16, 2017 6:31:37 GMT -5
I don't use the extensions as I made a much lighter weight "extension table" out of 80/20 that suits my needs better, but if I wanted to line up the zero point on them quickly I'd probably just put a piece of tape on a good level (or one of the giant Woodpeckers triangles if you have one), butt the taped area right up against the teeth and read off the non-taped edge where it hangs over the edge. My ignorance, what’s 80/20? Pareto board?
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Nov 16, 2017 6:37:16 GMT -5
I was thinking I would not mind seeing a picture...
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Nov 16, 2017 7:55:58 GMT -5
out of habit I still will check measurement with a tape or folding rule off the fence to the blade on any saw. as far as how the markings are intended to work, on the extensions, they are set in 10 cm increments. you're meant to align these to the dawn's existing rule markings. that is providing your saw is set with a metric rule. mine is imperial.
|
|
|
Post by Tom Gensmer on Nov 16, 2017 8:29:37 GMT -5
I don't use the extensions as I made a much lighter weight "extension table" out of 80/20 that suits my needs better, but if I wanted to line up the zero point on them quickly I'd probably just put a piece of tape on a good level (or one of the giant Woodpeckers triangles if you have one), butt the taped area right up against the teeth and read off the non-taped edge where it hangs over the edge. My ignorance, what’s 80/20? Pareto board? VERY close!! In this case, 80/20 refers to a manufacturer of aluminum extrusions. The company actually took inspiration for their name from Pareto's Principle. 8020.net
|
|
|
Post by oncomeme on Nov 17, 2017 23:51:23 GMT -5
I was thinking I would not mind seeing a picture... It's nothing impressive and would not appeal to most, but it's exactly what I wanted: 1) It holds ~4' boards perfectly level with the rest of the top without dinking around with sawhorses 2) It takes up very little additional space when "collapsed" 3) It creates a barrier in front of the blade which stops small offcut pieces from flying forward into my arm 4) It comes off really easily 5) It only cost me $80 (plus the two "clamping elements") Why this matters to me... I make a lot of gigantic sapele butcher blocks: That means I first turn long sticks of 8/4 stock into this mess: And I don't have a lot of room to store stuff. The extension table seems great, but it takes up a lot of extra space and, when combined with the cost of the required extensions, is quite expensive. It also does nothing to stop the forward flinging habits of the blade. I might pick it all up someday if I need to do something else, but for right now, this was the perfect solution for me.
|
|
|
Post by oncomeme on Nov 18, 2017 0:30:27 GMT -5
A slightly more involved 80/20 project is the flattening sled I use for those same butcher blocks: It rides on custom made graphite linear bearings that hold everything in perfect perpendicularity at all times and hangs up on a wall when not in use Fabulous stuff, and the 25mm profiles work perfectly with the Mafell clamping elements.
|
|
|
Post by Michael on Dec 4, 2018 7:01:07 GMT -5
Hi Fred!! I have the full Erika 70 setup and have been very happy with it. For your question about whether the Erika will replace a MFT for processing panels, I would answer with a conditional "Yes". The conditional part is, you will still want to use your track saw to break down 4x8 or 5x5 panels into smaller pieces, which you would then take to the Erika for precision sizing. "Take the small thing to the big thing" With the sliding table, you'll get roughly 32"/800mm cross cutting capacity, and with the 1m table extensions you can expect approximately 25"/650mm ripping capacity. As for switching between using the sliding table versus the pull function: Installing the sliding table monopolizes the left side dovetail. That being said, adding or removing the sliding table only involves two bolts and takes less than 60 seconds. You can also lock the sliding table in place. As for dust extraction, I am aware of people using multiple vacuum units in an effort to achieve "complete" dust collection, but I've generally been quite happy with a single dust extractor rated in the 120cfm+ category using a 36mm hose. If you're looking for greater suction in a single package, you can look at: Hilti VC-300: This is HILTI's biggest and baddest dust collector. This vac is rated at 300cfm with high static pressure, more than double the Bosch. At ~$1500, it also costs double or triple the Bosch. This should be available in Europe. www.hilti.com/dust-management/vacuum-cleaners-%26-accessories/vacuum-cleaners/r7496695Oneida Dust Cobra: This is next on my list for primarily shop-based dust extraction. I recently bought a Mini-Gorilla for use with my tools with 4" ports, and I've been so happy with it that I'd like to try the Dust Cobra for my tools with 2" and smaller ports, such as my Erika, Castle pocket hole machine, CMS router table, etc.... ~245cfm, high static pressure, available in 220v, integrated cyclone, ~$1,400. Not sure if Oneida ships to Europe or not. www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=XCKM010000-IND&CatId={88398A7C-ADBE-46C7-976A-AEAD1AE24147}I hope this helps! Best, Tom Hi Tom, is the ripping fence easily usable like a regular table saw? Is it simply a lever at the front that is allows for quick reposition? Or is it a lot of knobs all over that take a minute to reposition?
|
|
|
Post by arvid on Dec 4, 2018 8:03:22 GMT -5
Hi Fred!! I have the full Erika 70 setup and have been very happy with it. For your question about whether the Erika will replace a MFT for processing panels, I would answer with a conditional "Yes". The conditional part is, you will still want to use your track saw to break down 4x8 or 5x5 panels into smaller pieces, which you would then take to the Erika for precision sizing. "Take the small thing to the big thing" With the sliding table, you'll get roughly 32"/800mm cross cutting capacity, and with the 1m table extensions you can expect approximately 25"/650mm ripping capacity. As for switching between using the sliding table versus the pull function: Installing the sliding table monopolizes the left side dovetail. That being said, adding or removing the sliding table only involves two bolts and takes less than 60 seconds. You can also lock the sliding table in place. As for dust extraction, I am aware of people using multiple vacuum units in an effort to achieve "complete" dust collection, but I've generally been quite happy with a single dust extractor rated in the 120cfm+ category using a 36mm hose. If you're looking for greater suction in a single package, you can look at: Hilti VC-300: This is HILTI's biggest and baddest dust collector. This vac is rated at 300cfm with high static pressure, more than double the Bosch. At ~$1500, it also costs double or triple the Bosch. This should be available in Europe. www.hilti.com/dust-management/vacuum-cleaners-%26-accessories/vacuum-cleaners/r7496695Oneida Dust Cobra: This is next on my list for primarily shop-based dust extraction. I recently bought a Mini-Gorilla for use with my tools with 4" ports, and I've been so happy with it that I'd like to try the Dust Cobra for my tools with 2" and smaller ports, such as my Erika, Castle pocket hole machine, CMS router table, etc.... ~245cfm, high static pressure, available in 220v, integrated cyclone, ~$1,400. Not sure if Oneida ships to Europe or not. www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=XCKM010000-IND&CatId={88398A7C-ADBE-46C7-976A-AEAD1AE24147}I hope this helps! Best, Tom Hi Tom, is the ripping fence easily usable like a regular table saw? Is it simply a lever at the front that is allows for quick reposition? Or is it a lot of knobs all over that take a minute to reposition? It’s a twist knob clamp, it works well and is solid. There is a micro adjustment as well in case you need to adjust it after you locked it down
|
|