Post by rizzoa13 on Nov 3, 2017 19:51:52 GMT -5
So In the other thread on the mt55 cordless I was asked to post some project pics so here we go. My partner is building a house and we’ve been involved from the get-go with much of the custom aspects of it. We’ve done the Azek fascia, Azek column wraps, Azek wainscottingon the gable end, installed all the windows and doors, waterproofing (I trust no one sadly), trim, kitchen, appliance install, tile, casework, and all the Stairs. Right now I’m finishing up the treads and handrails on his main staircase which I hope to be a nice little number for my portfolio.
I framed the steps to accept 2x10 on the flat on each step. To explain that a little better I found the rise and run I needed and then subtracted 1 1/2” from my rise in the stringer. This gets complicated on the first and last rise because of the flooring he used only being 3/8 of an inch. After the stringers are cut and installed a 2x10 gets glued and screwed down flat across all of the stringers. This gives a LOT of stability to the entire stair and a full area to glue the treads down when ready. Pic one shows what they look like before treads.
Next the finished skirt boards are installed. At the wall the skirt joins with the baseboard top and bottom and gets a cap to flow it all the way around. The outside skirt is more complicated and gets miters where it will wrap around to the finished risers. Pic 2 shows the skirt wrapping to the risers. You can also see the dado in the bottom of the risers in this picture. This is the first time I’ve tried this and I absolutely love it. I cut a 1” tall by 1/2” deep dado along the length of the risers to receive the tread. Treads are 1” heavy and needed to be tapped in with a piece of wood and a bfh but it makes an airtight joint. Pics 3-8 show the process of fitting the treads. They get tapped into the dado and left long on the outside. With the compass I set the distance that needs to be scribed off and then transfer to the cut side. Here’s where the mt55 18 bl kicked ass. With the little 800 rail for the jigsaw I was able to make the crosscuts. Once they were fit to length I took a measurement of the nose overhang. I wanted 1 1/4” so my cover moulding underneath would look good. A 1/4” was needed to be ripped off the back edge of most of the treads. Cordless mt55 did this with ease.
The rest of the pictures are just of my setup when working on the steps, the box Newell’s and the coffered ceiling we installed above the steps. So that was pretty long winded but hope you all enjoyed.
Tony
I framed the steps to accept 2x10 on the flat on each step. To explain that a little better I found the rise and run I needed and then subtracted 1 1/2” from my rise in the stringer. This gets complicated on the first and last rise because of the flooring he used only being 3/8 of an inch. After the stringers are cut and installed a 2x10 gets glued and screwed down flat across all of the stringers. This gives a LOT of stability to the entire stair and a full area to glue the treads down when ready. Pic one shows what they look like before treads.
Next the finished skirt boards are installed. At the wall the skirt joins with the baseboard top and bottom and gets a cap to flow it all the way around. The outside skirt is more complicated and gets miters where it will wrap around to the finished risers. Pic 2 shows the skirt wrapping to the risers. You can also see the dado in the bottom of the risers in this picture. This is the first time I’ve tried this and I absolutely love it. I cut a 1” tall by 1/2” deep dado along the length of the risers to receive the tread. Treads are 1” heavy and needed to be tapped in with a piece of wood and a bfh but it makes an airtight joint. Pics 3-8 show the process of fitting the treads. They get tapped into the dado and left long on the outside. With the compass I set the distance that needs to be scribed off and then transfer to the cut side. Here’s where the mt55 18 bl kicked ass. With the little 800 rail for the jigsaw I was able to make the crosscuts. Once they were fit to length I took a measurement of the nose overhang. I wanted 1 1/4” so my cover moulding underneath would look good. A 1/4” was needed to be ripped off the back edge of most of the treads. Cordless mt55 did this with ease.
The rest of the pictures are just of my setup when working on the steps, the box Newell’s and the coffered ceiling we installed above the steps. So that was pretty long winded but hope you all enjoyed.
Tony