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Post by kraftt on Oct 12, 2017 21:02:30 GMT -5
I don’t know if there’s ever been a definitive answer on the best way to trim the splinter guard here (?) I think I originally listened to someone here or elsewhere who posted that the carbide tips on blade should be set so that the red rubber falls in between the carbide tooth length - i.e. the bottom of the tooth (plate attachment) should not go below the top of the red strip. That and to go slowly (+ snug up setting wheels first too). Anyways that’s what I did the first time and it worked great so I thought nothing of it. A while back I cut one of my 160’s into two pieces. Rather than fight with removing the splinter guard all the way I first cut it with a razor so I could just peel back a few inches each side to cut it flush after the aluminum was cut. Peeling it back worked but I stretched it too far putting it back and tore one side about an inch. No big deal. Today I found time to install & trim the replacement strip I ordered. Don’t know what I was thinking but I set the saw at full cut depth believing that it shouldn’t matter since it cut so well the first time. Well as many probably already know that doesn’t turn out pretty. At full depth or even anything below the carbide tooth length the tips pull up the rubber and cuts a ragged bevel. Disappointed I made a second pass at 25mm to try and clean it up. I mostly worked / straightened it out a bit, but ragged undercutting was still there. Might matter to some, others not. A final pass at carbide tip depth cleaned it up as much as it could. I didn’t take a picture of the full depth pass but it was bad. They give you enough replacement strip to do two rails so even though it's somewhat acceptable I will probably do it over again. But this decides it for me on method. I won’t say that there is an ideal way to do this because milage may vary but I will say that there is definitely a bad way to do it. If you really want to get into the minutia of it I also notice that the pink dust collects on the tips of the blade and since we are cutting rubber here, which can deflect, I might consider doing a quick brush of the carbide tips if you’re trimming more than one rail or doing more than one pass if you want the sharpest line. Likewise if the pink dust likes to collect on the tips I would also wonder if cutting lubes like teflon etc could help it stick even more. It was hard to get a photo of how they appear in person. The smooth cut looks even smoother and the jagged cut looks worse and does not instill confidence in alignment on a fine line.
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Post by kraftt on Oct 13, 2017 21:56:32 GMT -5
Jezus H. Christ- I picked up the packaging the splinter guard came in and the pictorial instructions on the back clearly shows an image of the saw blade depth set at 3mm below the splinter guard. My insomnia must be getting the better of me. I looked right at these images the first time noting how to break off the little plastic toothpicks, apply soapy water etc. but the image of the saw cutting the strip only registered as “then trim the splinter guard, yeah , yeah “.
Wonder why they don’t put this in the saw manual also? Now I'm curious if there's a ‘best speed’ for rubber.
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Post by jozsefkozma on Oct 13, 2017 22:36:26 GMT -5
For some reason I think is 3
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Post by holmz on Oct 14, 2017 7:44:11 GMT -5
Do people really read instructions? (I thought that was a myth.)
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Post by kraftt on Oct 14, 2017 8:42:53 GMT -5
Any other tool company and you would have the answer in 30 seconds with a phone call, but the only way you can communicate with mafell is if you stand in front the factory gates wearing suspenders, lederhosen, & a hat and yodel it at them. little fuckers.
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Post by arvid on Oct 14, 2017 9:57:05 GMT -5
Do a backwards score cut 1mm deep then all the way through going forward. Worked fine for me on all my rails and crosscut rails.
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Post by kraftt on Oct 14, 2017 12:46:38 GMT -5
Thanks arvid, I thought about a score cut, afterwards, as well.
I think all anyone wants is for the bottom of the splinter guard to be as sharp / 90ºish and clean as possible. I wondered if, after scoring, there is less material and so less resistance downwards against the blade coming up against it and so what's left of the rubber / bottom edge could lift / bend easier(?). Or it's just the opposite - maybe less material equal less mass coupled which limits overall lift (?). I know how stupid all this must sound but it is supposed to be a fairly precise guide.
Anyways I think I'll experiment with scoring & one pass at the beginning of the rail that usually overhangs off the material. That and crank the air conditioning down to 62º to firm up the rubber. (maybe a blood sacrifice first too).
- just looked into rubber cutting blades to see what they do / use and there might be something to be said for cutting backwards.
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Post by toomanytoys on Oct 14, 2017 18:15:10 GMT -5
For those of us that had a Eurekazone background (I'm not sure you're supposed to admit that publicly) trimming of the ACE (anti splinter edge) which is also the cut line was done backwards so the force against the ACE was down into it and backed by the wood or whatever. Forward trimming pulled the ACE upwards with no backing and it would flap and chip (hard plastic).
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Post by kraftt on Oct 14, 2017 20:22:25 GMT -5
Thanks for that toomanytoys. So then cutting backwards works best with sacrificial material under splinter guard.
So to promote a clean reference edge we have:
1) Snug 'setting wheels' to remove play. 2) Lay track & splinter guard on top of sacrificial surface. Lightly clamp. 2) OR overhang track splinter guard in free air. (?) 3a) Set plunge depth (carbide tooth) no lower than 3mm below guard strip. 3b) Optionally set depth for a first pass score cut. (now I understand the benefit with material underneath) 4) Set saw speed ? 5) Start cut or score at the end of track to cut backwards. Cut backwards. 6) Cut at a slow/measured pace. 7) Optionally if you scored backwards - adjust depth to 3mm below guard and now finish cut forwards.
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Post by toomanytoys on Oct 15, 2017 16:15:53 GMT -5
None of the edge in free air. Slow speed. Firm control of the saw ‘cause reaction to the blade cutting pushes the saw up. It not an issue for the sacrifice to be 1/4 ply or the like and cut through, but thicker I’ve never done because of the reaction. www.eurekazone.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdfinstructions/EZ%20Smart%20Anti-Chip%20Edges%20v14-01.pdfon edit, it looks like they now say forward is OK, but if the edge is taped down. It may work, I’ve just never done it that way, but I live on the edge .
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Post by kraftt on Oct 15, 2017 18:03:36 GMT -5
ok - so for the mafell 'missing in manual' we now have: Trimming Splinter Guard FSS:1) Snug 'setting wheels' (21) located on saw base to remove play but still slide freely. 2) Lay rail & splinter guard on top of a sacrificial cutting surface. (It's not recommended to cut guard in free air). 3) Clamp rail, snug is fine. 4a) Set plunge depth (carbide tooth) so that you cut no lower than 3mm below guard strip. 4b) *Optionally you can choose to make a first pass scoring cut. In this case set depth to score splinter guard but not cut through. 5) No determination on saw speed has been made, but check that speed (9) is set to at least 3 or higher. 6) Start cut or score at the end of track to cut backwards. Cut backwards. 7) Cut at a slow/measured pace, keeping steady moderate pressure on the saw to keep blade from lifting during cut. * If you scored backwards for a first pass - adjust blade depth now to 3mm below guard and finish cut going forwards.
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Post by mcnallyfamily on Oct 19, 2017 12:39:50 GMT -5
ok - so for the mafell 'missing in manual' we now have: Trimming Splinter Guard FSS:1) Snug 'setting wheels' (21) located on saw base to remove play but still slide freely. 2) Lay rail & splinter guard on top of a sacrificial cutting surface. (It's not recommended to cut guard in free air). 3) Clamp rail, snug is fine. 4a) Set plunge depth (carbide tooth) so that you cut no lower than 3mm below guard strip. 4b) *Optionally you can choose to make a first pass scoring cut. In this case set depth to score splinter guard but not cut through. 5) No determination on saw speed has been made, but check that speed (9) is set to at least 3 or higher. 6) Start cut or score at the end of track to cut backwards. Cut backwards. 7) Cut at a slow/measured pace, keeping steady moderate pressure on the saw to keep blade from lifting during cut. * If you scored backwards for a first pass - adjust blade depth now to 3mm below guard and finish cut going forwards. Thank you for posting this information! I'm certain you have saved many people from ruining their splinter guard!
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Post by chippiegary on Oct 19, 2017 13:54:38 GMT -5
Hi all does anybody have a specific technique for actually changing the splinter strip personally using suds /soapy water sucks when I tried it ,German mafell guys at d&m tool show basically cut used one off with craft knife /scalpel then push the new strip into the top groove only,then turn it over and push it into the bottom groove “worked quite well for me with a bit of light hammering in “ , was not easy though but easier than mafell s diagram which is very non discript if I remember rightly anyway hopefully you get the idea ? Another little tip is they reckon to use the rubber black splinter guard from the flexi rail on the kss 300 and the kss40 crosscut rail not the red plastic one they sell for it “I always thought that was the weak link to the 300 and 40 saws anyway “ where as the bigger kss saws use the same splinter strips as f rails .anyway tried it it works a treat I’ll post part number for it if anyone wants it regards Gary
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Post by chippiegary on Oct 19, 2017 14:20:17 GMT -5
Forgot to say I also used one of them wallpaper roller type things “for wallpaper seams “ to roller the back flat it worked quite well I guess a laminating roller would work well too ?
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Post by holmz on Oct 19, 2017 19:26:00 GMT -5
Forgot to say I also used one of them wallpaper roller type things “for wallpaper seams “ to roller the back flat it worked quite well I guess a laminating roller would work well too ? I thre out the Mrs rolling pins..
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