|
Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 13, 2014 16:52:24 GMT -5
Hope you have found sometime to put the p1cc through its paces
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Feb 13, 2014 17:39:22 GMT -5
Not yet...
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Feb 17, 2014 14:43:30 GMT -5
Quick snapshot showing adjustment screws to correct 90 and 45 degree stops on the angle base... Mine is dead on out of the box but it's good to know you can easily adjust in case something goes out of whack
|
|
|
Post by 7 on Feb 18, 2014 1:15:52 GMT -5
Good to know. I just ordered the angle base.
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Feb 18, 2014 19:04:18 GMT -5
backwards blade scribing on a bevel from underneath the work piece......priceless!
|
|
|
Post by 7 on Feb 18, 2014 21:41:41 GMT -5
My angle base arrived today. Not sure when I will use it…I would have last week.
I am curious to get your opinion on how the p1cc compares to the trion. Did you sell your trion? I have only had two different Bosch models and the p1cc doesn't even seem like the same tool it's so much better.
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Feb 18, 2014 23:00:03 GMT -5
I didn't particularly mind the Trion, but the mafell is infinitely better in almost any aspect. Ergonomics alone put it in a class of it's own. I'm probably preaching to the choir but I'm very impressed. Would have liked a light on it today, if I have to find a downside but it's a solid piece of kit. Trion is going up for sale.
|
|
|
Post by 7 on Feb 19, 2014 2:19:38 GMT -5
I did a miracle cut with the P1cc in my shop tonight. I honestly thought there was no way it would work but tried it anyway and not only did it actually work but was perfect. It will make more sense with pictures & it is late tonight & I gotta get going early tomorrow so I will post pics tomorrow night.
So I have a bunch of walnut in my shop that I bought years ago from a local guy who removes trees. He had the walnut milled but it isn't the same as the stuff you get from the cabinet supplier that is fairly straight down the width (if that makes sense). Some is kinda straight but a lot of it is strange…for example one piece that is 7-8' long might start out at 18" wide gradually slope to the narrow part that is only 10" wide then flare back out to 16".
I came up with an idea for a section of counter top in my own house where I am remodeling a bathroom. I didn't want to cut a piece of walnut down to the narrowest portion when the majority of it is wide so decided to overlap two pieces that matched reasonably well (inverse matching- one boards narrow part where the other board is thick) then join them together into one by running the P1CC down them while stacked on each other & clamped together. I figured there was no way since the cut would need to be perfectly square all the way down, even the slightest blip would make it look like a complete joke. Each walnut board is 7/8" thick, so a total of 1 3/4" following a curve for 6' just didn't seem feasible. I was definitely not counting on the result. In the end I got a perfect cut/joint and to top it off absolutely no blade burn after 6 feet of cutting…not a speck of discoloration on the blade. In my opinion the wood grain looks cool too because of the unique radius cut not to mention the options it opens up for projects with my big stack of unusually wide walnut.
Needless to say I am high on the P1cc again.
|
|
|
Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 19, 2014 12:43:21 GMT -5
We'll need to see some pics. I've being think of the same brain wave maybe. As it will make thinks interesting. The boards by the sounds of it are what you call waney edge where the shape of the tree is still on the edge. There is a type of flooring called bolle floor and none of it has a straight side here is a link www.bolefloor.com/en/
|
|
|
Post by jalvis on Feb 19, 2014 17:49:19 GMT -5
I like that!
Good idea and so many applications.
|
|
|
Post by MrToolJunkie on Feb 19, 2014 20:51:53 GMT -5
Posts like this make me excited about the P1CC and make me want to buy one. What blade did you use to make this cut? It sounds AMAZING! I did a miracle cut with the P1cc in my shop tonight. I honestly thought there was no way it would work but tried it anyway and not only did it actually work but was perfect. It will make more sense with pictures & it is late tonight & I gotta get going early tomorrow so I will post pics tomorrow night. So I have a bunch of walnut in my shop that I bought years ago from a local guy who removes trees. He had the walnut milled but it isn't the same as the stuff you get from the cabinet supplier that is fairly straight down the width (if that makes sense). Some is kinda straight but a lot of it is strange…for example one piece that is 7-8' long might start out at 18" wide gradually slope to the narrow part that is only 10" wide then flare back out to 16". I came up with an idea for a section of counter top in my own house where I am remodeling a bathroom. I didn't want to cut a piece of walnut down to the narrowest portion when the majority of it is wide so decided to overlap two pieces that matched reasonably well (inverse matching- one boards narrow part where the other board is thick) then join them together into one by running the P1CC down them while stacked on each other & clamped together. I figured there was no way since the cut would need to be perfectly square all the way down, even the slightest blip would make it look like a complete joke. Each walnut board is 7/8" thick, so a total of 1 3/4" following a curve for 6' just didn't seem feasible. I was definitely not counting on the result. In the end I got a perfect cut/joint and to top it off absolutely no blade burn after 6 feet of cutting…not a speck of discoloration on the blade. In my opinion the wood grain looks cool too because of the unique radius cut not to mention the options it opens up for projects with my big stack of unusually wide walnut. Needless to say I am high on the P1cc again.
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Feb 19, 2014 21:50:57 GMT -5
Hey Scot, check the start of this thread for blade recommendations. P1cc is an awesome piece of kit but it is not cheap. If you can swing the price you won't be let down. It's a mean machine for sure
|
|
|
Post by MrToolJunkie on Feb 19, 2014 22:43:02 GMT -5
Thanks, Ghostfist. For some reason when it comes to tools cost is not really a factor for me. I just need to decide if 4 quality jigsaws is overkill! I like them all and use them all, but the cut quality of the P1CC seems amazing.
What rail sizes do most users start out with? I have a collection of Festool rails but if I went this route I would add some Mafell rails to the mix. 1 of each size? What about the angle fence - I saw the thread that discusses this, but I did not find too many pictures showing how it attaches to the guide rail and how accurate it is for 90 degrees and various angles. Also, what is the kick-back stop F-RS I saw on Timberwolf's site? Is this something used for the plunge saw but just cross listed on the website?
Thanks
|
|
|
Post by 7 on Feb 20, 2014 1:58:36 GMT -5
Sorry for the delay- late night. I'll get it on here tomorrow with blade info included. Again just a basic home depot Bosch blade nothing special or expensive. I listed at the beginning of this thread the two other Bosch jigsaws that I own, no comparison. Then again though the price is also no comparison either but the results I am getting still don't seem possible from a jigsaw.
Interesting floor Wright.
Scot- If you get one & don't like it I'd be shocked. For me the comparison with other jigsaws that I own or have used is exactly what makes this one so awesome.
|
|
|
Post by MrToolJunkie on Feb 20, 2014 7:47:47 GMT -5
Thanks, 7. I am more tempted...I have read just about everything I can on the saw, including the threads Jalvis posted that you have to translate from Russian and there really is no complaint I can find on it.
Is there an extra orbital position on the switch? It appears that there is one more than most other jigsaws but could be wrong and it is hard to tell on a moving tool.
Thanks
|
|