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Post by holmz on Aug 11, 2017 2:15:40 GMT -5
Not a kiwi reference, but an actual deck question...
The Boss wants a deck... I want (what is known in Australian as...) a dirty big 4x4...
The subframe with steel C channel looks to be " the go". I found some Ipe 1500 miles away where the 4x4 lives, so that reduces shipping costs, and gives the 4x4 some purpose.
What is used over Ipe for a deck exposed to the hot desert sun? Spar varnish? Oil? Other?
I also need to sort out attachment system options for the wood to the deck frame.
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Post by toomanytoys on Aug 11, 2017 7:16:40 GMT -5
Living with Ipe for almost a decade, it is a high maintenance wood if you want a finish on it and not go gray.
It is so dense, and with its oil, does not accept stains and coatings like many woods. Sun bakes anything right off. In my exposure initially it will require multiple staining per year. Aging and running a coarse floor rotating sander got it open enough so I can almost get away with a one year staining. But if I want it to look best, I'm still on a twice a year schedule.
I initially used a product I can't get in NJ anymore, now I'm using Ipe Oil which is working the best. But I'm all ears from hearing from deck pros.
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Post by holmz on Aug 11, 2017 7:42:45 GMT -5
Living with Ipe for almost a decade, it is a high maintenance wood if you want a finish on it and not go gray. ...I initially used a product I can't get in NJ anymore, now I'm using Ipe Oil which is working the best. But I'm all ears from hearing from deck pros. Well epifanes (netherlands) make some 2-pack deal for teak... So I am still left in wonder.
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Post by erik on Aug 11, 2017 7:47:19 GMT -5
Agree with Toomany, looks great but requires annual maintenance. Last time I looked for an oil, penofin was a big name but I read something that steered me to another product...not sure if it exists anymore.
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Post by holmz on Aug 11, 2017 8:00:15 GMT -5
Well there is wood and plasitic... i have some time as the pick up date in around XMAS.
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Post by calidecks on Aug 11, 2017 23:16:27 GMT -5
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Post by holmz on Aug 12, 2017 3:10:36 GMT -5
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Post by toomanytoys on Aug 12, 2017 8:09:13 GMT -5
Ain't nothing harder on blades then Ipe, aka Ironwood. I also learned to use a dust mask with it when generating dust. The TWP100 was what I used the first time and with the mill finish it looked great. It lasted 3-4 months. Redone it lasted 6 months. Keep in mind initially the wood without exposure is well sealed. The image of my finished deck first built in Holmz Projects thread is with the TWP100 Rustic 116. What you learn with TWP is any excess doesn't absorb and becomes tacky. I used the stain on other woods and it absorbed fully. Second year was TWP1500 EPA series. Not as good IMO. Played with it for 2 years. Switched to something else well known, nope. Even tried a light sanding to open the pores. Used TWP's new offering of stripper & cleaner/brightener and it turned the deck black. The older liquid products didn't, and based on their comments section I wasn't the only one that it happened to. Talked to the guys in Georgia and they said to use more brightener. Nope. Appearantly the iron in the wood gets a little oxidized, my SWAG. Went to Home Depot and rented a drum floor sander and used medium grit. Ipe laughed at me. Went to 36 grid, Ipe was resistant, but yielded the black. Ended up buying a good amount of sandpaper for the little deck compared to wood flooring. Went to IPE oil and have been using it two years now. All staining is done by hand, two light wipes. So far the IPE oil is what I'm staying with. The local Jersey Shore lumberyard owner switched from Cabots to IPE oil on his own deck and while they carry both, his sales guys now point everyone to IPE Oil, often telling the story. I used www.fastenmaster.com/products/tc-g-grooved-board-hidden-fastener.htmlfor fastening, with screws and plugs for the perimeter. Some boards have moved a little gap wise, but acceptably for me and no lifts. You can't use the other Tiger Claw clip, it won't grab the wood successfully. Each clip point on the wood was grooved with a Porter-Cable 557, but a router would work fine too. Had to buy a new cutter too, again aka Ironwood.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Aug 17, 2017 21:04:13 GMT -5
For fastening, I just completed a Trex deck where the customer spec'd the Trex Hideaway system. I ordered the Trex boards with the edged grooved from the factory, ran them long, cut them in place with my KSS-300 on tracks, then picture framed the deck with square edge Trex with face screws. The Hideaway system was pretty slick, the tabs/clips come pre-loaded with screws, and they automatically space the deck boards. I don't know how it compares to the other systems, other than to say I didn't mind the Hideaway....
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Post by holmz on Aug 18, 2017 7:05:39 GMT -5
Thanks calidecks - I will have to see what is available in Australia. Merabu is more popular here than ipe. ... For fastening, I just completed a Trex deck ... Well of if you took any pictures, then (being a visual learner) I would be interested... i will check out (GTS 1 the description) As an aside... My father left left Duluth a week ago... I need to get back and have a visit. Hope your summer is going well. 1: GTS, in Australian mean "Google That £hit"
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Post by holmz on Sept 18, 2017 16:23:43 GMT -5
Went by Stratco yesterday, and there was a deck with 48x140 mm RHS (2x6"box steel). Was using tek screwed brackets etc. and sitting 300-mm above the ground.
The Haus-boss is taken with the idea of the plastic wood- which the sales man said needs to be oiled twice a year. (As opposed to 3x/year for wood)
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Post by huntsgemein on Sept 18, 2017 19:43:09 GMT -5
Less potential issues with white ant infestation too. Always a problem in the drier north of Oz.
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