Thinking about it, it's just easier to use the clamping slots under the f-rail to set a couple of knobs like the kss rail does.
I mean what's really involved here ? one round stationary knob and one adjustable knob with an indicator. Creating and index on top by either marking / engraving the rail or applying a sticker is pretty straight forward too. Even simpler is reproducing the f-wa arm or if need be buying an fsn-wan and transferring parts to a longer rail.
Was watching this noticing how they used the steel rail connector as a stiffener on the f-wa.
Because the mafell steel rail connector would overhang the back & front of an MT55 saw base by about 20mm of 'useful' length it seems like it's the best choice to bolt to the bottom of the saw if you just want to simplify use for repetitive cuts when only using f-wa. You might want to drill two pairs of holes to bias steel connector to stick out more in back or front depending on what you're cutting. Two very thin washers will be beneficial too.
You're right, the rail is rather short to require a stiffener, but I believe it benefits under the weight of that heavy saw. More likely though they have it overhanging the end of the rail to keep base plate level until blade can exit cut. (?)
It kind of sucks to store on the FSN because it sticks out and you can't put the plastic piece on (Say hello to soft aluminum edges...) Makes me want to get a little offcut of a rail and permanently mount the rail joining piece and rail on there so the FSN guide is more useful when I pull it out. Better than fiddling with a 800mm rail which is often too much for "just a crosscut."
If you sent them an email, in the US you'd get an email back from Timberwolf Tools since apparently: "Your message, originally sent to Mafell AG, was forwarded to me since Mafell does not communicate directly with End-Users.....always through their Dealers."
I am pretty sure you could actually take the miter guide and then strip it of the necessarily hardware minus the angle gauge and mount that onto a rail. The only thing you can't take from that unless you feel like doing some real accurate drilling is the little stop screw to prevent the fence from overtravelling past the 45" end of the scale. You really just have to drill one hole on the top of the rail and stick the roll pin back through it.
I happen to have the Bosch flavor variety of rails, but at the price I got this gauge at, it seems like you could fabricate a 800mm rail into a KSS Wafell with accurate drilling and putting on your own reference scale as well as doing something for the indexing. The only thing is that the rail will be floppy compared to a KSS rail.
That’s what I was thinking (one hole through the rail) but I didn’t know about the the ‘stop hole’. I guessed that through hole might be a pin and thought about replacing it with a countersunk screw (bolt & nut) so I could also use the 800, as a rail only, without angle guide.
I wanted to ask someone about the angle gauge scale. I assumed it was a thin strip of aluminum epoxied or double stuck in place and that I might be able to use solvent to release it. Sort of get under it with a razor blade without deforming it, then route a recess for it into an 800. But if the gauge is ink printed, rather than etched, then that might prove difficult without erasing / blurring the ink.
I know what you are saying about the floppiness of the f-rail but when I just put on an unused 160 (that I may yet cut) I’m more than satisfied with the rigidity. The only downside I see is unlike the width of a kss rail the f-rail leaves you nowhere to rest a thumb as the saw passes. You’re stuck with controlling with the angle ‘fence’ or just lifting your free hand off the rail to let saw pass as it approaches.
I can’t go wrong because an f-wa / or bosch is a useful accessory, and all I have invested in the wafell is 5 bucks for a bag of nylon screws from China. But if I can't remove the angle scale safely then I'm still debating making the rest from scratch.
forgot to mention- either your F-VS or a Wafell can make a good router guide if you adapt your router baseplate to them or make one for them.
The F-VS has the advantage (in the case of a router) of snugging up the connector / guide for precision while a Wafell provides more versatility in adapting to a router base plate… you can still achieve same precision with a wafell but that relies on how precisely you fabricated your wafell to fit your rail to begin with.
abdon: I stand corrected , the angle fence is only attaches with F -Tracks , what confused me was , that the Timberwolf site mentioned it will work with the NFU machine, yes it will work but only I guess when you use the Ftrack , with other tracks Like the KSS L.
Nov 28, 2020 22:52:01 GMT -5
glynnco: Did you order from GereedschapPro? I see them as in stock but I'm located in the US and am not sure if they ship here. I sent them an email asking about shipping but it was returned undeliverable...
Dec 10, 2020 7:37:40 GMT -5
jonathan: I've purchased a lot of stuff from our neighbours @ GereedschapPro.nl As far as I know they are one of the larger Mafell dealers in the EU. I can recommend them, they usually respond quickly.
Dec 11, 2020 13:58:36 GMT -5
NFU 50 Transportation?: Hi Guys, is there some Systainer for the NFU 50?
Dec 11, 2020 14:30:12 GMT -5
frezik24: Hello everyone
Dec 13, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
lasse: Thanks for the tip! I have own a mafell rail which is 160 cm and one that is 80 cm. Will it work just as well or will I need to buy rail that is 110 cm?
Mar 18, 2021 15:35:15 GMT -5