Cement blade?

Get out your callipers & start measuring some diamond blades. As Mafell quotes some 120mm blade dia. that's where I'd be starting. Look for a "turbo" blade: continuous rim, intermittent diamond segmentation on the edges. Most diamond blades are listed @ 5" (125mm), so you need to be getting a slightly smaller one. An alternative is one that suits a 4 1/2" (115mm) grinder.

Next issue is the arbor. All will have a 7/8" (22.24mm) arbor hole. That's ok. You'll need a 22.24-20mm arbor washer to correctly size it down. No dramas. I've done this often enough myself, 'though in my particular case it was a 6" (152mm) turbo blade sized down to fit my KSE55 saw's 20mm arbor. There was a whopping 15mm size differential between the saw's preferred size & the grinder blade, which made the cutting speed (RPMs) a mite low, but it still cut effectively through 6, 10 & 12mm board.  I seem to recall that I even cut the speed back a notch or 2 to minimise dust escape.  Arbor washers are available from, among other sources, Trend in the UK. Sometimes they're available free within the packaging of cheap asian turbo diamond grinder blades, which is where I sourced mine.

Another alternative is PCD (polychrystalline diamond) tipped blades, from a variety of sources. This is a specialty blade for Hardieflex & other cement sheet type product. Your local corner hardware would be an appropriate place to start. Be aware that they may at times be expensive: name branded types especially so!  Festo charge a whopping $300+ for an (aftermarket) PCD blade for their Kapex!

Finally, a word of warning: cement sheet products often contain silicates & obviously cement dust, which will in the short term can be irritating to the skin & respiratory tissues, fine cement dusts in the medium term can lodge in the lungs, and in the longer term these potential carcinogens may be causative of inoperable lung disease such as silicosis.  Water spray, dust mask, hooded waterproof coveralls or encompassing dungarees that can be hosed down & adequate (i.e at least "M" class, if not "H" or even "H-asbest") dust extraction should be de rigeur. Dampening things down with a very fine water spray before, during & after cutting is also good practice, bearing in mind of course that you're presumably cutting with mains electricity!  ELCBs & RCD breakers should be fitted to all dedicated circuits used, cables & junctions as a matter of course.

My saw didn't really like the cement sheet treatment too much either: dust got in EVERYWHERE, including the self-retract mechanism & lever for the pendulum cover and the depth preset adjustment. After extensive use it required a comprehensive stripdown, dust and blowout & relubing with powdered graphite to give of its best again.

Why not try a turbo blade? It will cost you about the equivalent of a pint or two, and be equally useful for cement, tile etc. as well. It'll cut slower, of course, but be a lot less messy into the bargain.

Holmz, would some sort of artificial abrasive cup wheel work? Never tried any myself, but I'm rather interested in how they'd work in stone: I have a medium term task on the wish-list to turn some semi-round basalt boulders into more perfect spheres & considered that some of these may work to both cut & polish a smidge more economically than diamond cupwheels would... Some are rated for stone, which is basically what glass is.

www.metabo.com.au/Product-catalogue-accessories-handheld-powertools.24126+M557c607fe6b.0.html

They'd probably require advance ordering from Metabo Oz for delivery from Germany I suspect. Doubt they'd be held in stock locally. I just thought that a synthetic stone cupwheel could be preground to perfect flatness/symmetry before you tackle the glass.

Please note the respective speed restrictions. Basically the cylindrical stones are for mini grinders, the conical ones for the big/ger ones. There may very well be cheaper sources elsewhere from a different manufacturer. Personally I've found Metabo abrasive wheels to be fantastic quality, but special orders from Germany can get prohibitively expensive. They may actually be USA made - some Metabo abrasives still are these days.

No mate, I ended up just using the one I could get for the kss60.

Thanks, most of these blades seem to be 4 tooth. Only ever need a 15mm depth of cut for my needs.