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Post by henrun on Nov 25, 2017 13:53:17 GMT -5
Yep, beater saw for sure. Often have I wanted a battery track/freehand saw in the workshop for miscellaneous use. This beater can stay put and I can graciously allow my colleagues to use it at their discretion without dying a little inside and cringe up when asked.  Of course this beater will need a battery so I am dedicating my 5,2Ah Mafell battery for it and have a 7Ah on order for the same price as the LiHD 5.5 (Black Friday special) - I need a battery for the MT55/18 and the 7Ah seems like a good choice plus I can use it for the mitre saw as well. I think the KSS40 does well with the 5,5Ah so I am reluctant to change them. I am thinking my MT55cc is now probably going to see even less use - might not hang on to it. Even for critical cuts I think the 18V will do fine with the 7Ah and a 5,5Ah battery. I do have three very good blades for the MT55cc so I think I will be at a loss selling it off but I just can't see myself using it much at all in the future. |
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Post by kraftt on Nov 25, 2017 17:39:47 GMT -5
... I do have three very good blades for the MT55cc so I think I will be at a loss selling it off but I just can't see myself using it much at all in the future. ? don't understand, those blades work in the MT55/18 too ? |
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Post by calidecks on Nov 25, 2017 23:49:00 GMT -5
I'm going to use blades for the mt55cc on the kss 50 and see how well it performs. Those blades are abundant and have many options.
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Post by kraftt on Nov 26, 2017 1:27:33 GMT -5
I'm hoping someone will try that skinny 1.44 kerf / .99 plate Makita blade on their cordless. Would be interesting to hear if it really gives mo power / runtime.
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Post by huntsgemein on Nov 26, 2017 1:33:41 GMT -5
You'll be losing a wee bit of depth with those MT blades: 160mm versus 170 makes some 5 mm +/- difference. Not much I know, but in these "smaller" saws each & every mm makes a difference in some circumstances. That limited 38mm bevel cut for one.
For others, it doesn't matter a rat's. I don't have a proper sized PCD blade. I have a 185mm one - for a Saw that was nicked a year ago - which is way too big. So for carving up Hardieflex, Villaboard & other cement composites I'm currently using an old 150mm. diamond turbo grinder blade with an appropriately sized arbour washer. The lower rim speed & limited depth make little difference here: just rip-cuts in thin (<12mm) sheet material. But for hardwood, especially Oz natives like Tas Oak & some other Tassie endemic exotics every bit of rim speed, depth & bite counts.
In some ways it's a bit of a pity there's not more consistency across Mafell's blade sizes. Hell, even Bosch use 165s in their own MT55 clone. But for the majority of cuts in sheet material, flooring or decking boards etc that simply don't require the max depth of cut it makes perfect sense to use whatever blade fits if it's available rather than pay through the nose for a new weirdly sized highly priced Mafell OEM "original". I'll probably do the same, having an old 36v Bosch saw that rocks 165mm max blade size (& a few spares). The only 167-168-170 mm blades that are easily available to me are much more affordable Wolfcraft "cheapies". I'll treat those few 168mm Mafell blades that I have like they were gold plated or something, & do the majority of my cutting with cheaper alternatives where & whenever possible.
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Post by holmz on Nov 26, 2017 7:16:06 GMT -5
Is this why I always need to add 2-mm to the thickness when seeking the depth?
(could also be that the church lady table that I rip on, are warped and bowed something fierce... dunno)
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Post by huntsgemein on Nov 26, 2017 8:56:33 GMT -5
Are you taking into account the thickness of your guiderails? They obviously make a difference too.
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Post by henrun on Nov 26, 2017 11:33:35 GMT -5
... I do have three very good blades for the MT55cc so I think I will be at a loss selling it off but I just can't see myself using it much at all in the future. ? don't understand, those blades work in the MT55/18 too ? Well, yes that is obviously true. I was still thinking of the KSS50 blades! (Slaps hand against forehead) Guess I am fully set with blades now. I did get two low tooth count HKC blades for the MT55/18 so with the two surplus blades from the MT55cc I am honestly well and fully stocked... The standard blade of the Metabo LTX 57 seems to be a wee bit thinner kerf at 1,5 so I might switch out that blade for a HKC blade to run same thickness blades on all saws - will have to ensure the rail compatibility first before dabbling with blades and thicknesses. I think standard to low tooth count blades (one of each) on the Metabo will suffice - preferrably same kerf thickness though. I don't remember what's been said on the LTX57 for rail strip compatibility but if it either cuts right on target or slightly outside of the rubber strip I am pleased with that. It is actually a saw that does not cost more than a low grade brand corded tracksaw - actually less - so a little off is tolerated at that price point as long as it does not mess up the rail for the other saws. I can remember to compensate for the one beater saw or even mark that down. If all saws were to cut differently I would go mental though. For the MT55/18 I can run the whole gamut from low to high tooth count. |
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Post by henrun on Nov 26, 2017 11:39:59 GMT -5
Is this why I always need to add 2-mm to the thickness when seeking the depth? (could also be that the church lady table that I rip on, are warped and bowed something fierce... dunno) On the KSS300/400 and 40 that is the case because the Flexirail is thinner than the FSN rail. So when running the KSS300/400 on the FSN rails you need to add those 2mm. Or are you using the Flexirail? Then it should be correct. There are dual markings on the saws but I think*) they only correspond to the with/without Flexirail and for any use on the FSN rails the depth of cut is slightly less. *) I didn't get full cut through material once or twice but from that experience I always gauge against the material or set it against my rule if I just need to cut through. I don't really pay much attention to the scales themselves except for a rough estimate on through cuts. |
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Post by aas on Nov 26, 2017 12:05:22 GMT -5
I don't remember what's been said on the LTX57 for rail strip compatibility but if it either cuts right on target or slightly outside of the rubber strip I am pleased with that. As good as on the splinter strip. Might try it with MT55 blades when I get a moment. I also have one Festool rail for the track riding angle grinder (AG 125 something or other) - the '57 will also work on that no problem, either I would need to re-adjust the base, or cut into the splinter strip - neither of which I want to do!.. but at least it's an option. |
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Post by henrun on Nov 26, 2017 12:59:03 GMT -5
Ok, thanks - good to know!
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Post by calidecks on Dec 2, 2017 22:52:55 GMT -5
Just recieved this in the mail from Germany. I'll try it out on Monday. If it turns out to be decent I might order up a few. The price is right! Check out 160mm TCT woodworking tungsten carbide tipped saw blade 160x20mm T=24 #KDG www.ebay.com/itm/-/322661544256?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=UzjywZ via @ebay less than 5 dollars shipping.  |
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Post by holmz on Dec 2, 2017 23:32:40 GMT -5
I might be interested in one... in SoCal in a ~10 days visiting the eldest child.
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Post by calidecks on Dec 3, 2017 1:47:57 GMT -5
I might be interested in one... in SoCal in a ~10 days visiting the eldest child. I believe they come from Germany. It's amazing how they can ship them to me for just over 4 dollars. |
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Post by calidecks on Dec 3, 2017 1:52:41 GMT -5
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