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Post by holmz on Apr 11, 2017 21:10:19 GMT -5
I need one... but I cannot harp on about what the fellow in Ireland needs.
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Post by huntsgemein on Apr 12, 2017 7:23:19 GMT -5
Those tapered barrel staves are a work of art. What timber? Fiddleback Sycamore?
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kevin
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Post by kevin on Apr 12, 2017 16:05:01 GMT -5
I need one... but I cannot harp on about what the fellow in Ireland needs. I also make violins so I've heard my fair share of "fiddling in the workshop" jokes  |
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kevin
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Post by kevin on Apr 12, 2017 16:08:03 GMT -5
Those tapered barrel staves are a work of art. What timber? Fiddleback Sycamore? Thanks! Although it's not an art, just a process like everything else we make. It is indeed sycamore that I got locally. It was only when I cut it up that I noticed the lovely figure. |
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kevin
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Post by kevin on May 1, 2017 14:53:35 GMT -5
Hi lads and lassies,
Just an update on my table saw search - I did not go for the Erika in the end... For better or worse, as I was waiting for my loan to come through I found an old Startrite Tilt Arbor 12" in very good shape and single phase advertised quite close by. I went to have a look and took it away there and then. It was a very fair price and maybe when the time comes to move on next I'll look into the Erika again, depending on where I end up.
Thanks for all the helpful replies!
Kevin
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Post by holmz on May 2, 2017 4:29:01 GMT -5
That is sensible working in a shop, good move.
And you can probably make sleds for you common parts.
(My Erika Shipped yesterday)
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kevin
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Post by kevin on May 3, 2017 15:39:07 GMT -5
That is sensible working in a shop, good move. And you can probably make sleds for you common parts. (My Erika Shipped yesterday) Yeah I thought so too. It even has a very smooth heavy cast iron sliding table and long extension arms. Good luck with your own Erika! |
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Post by naildrivingman on Sept 24, 2017 11:52:44 GMT -5
I contemplated the CMS, but not for long. There is a thread on mounting an Incra fence to the Erika, which you probably do not need. you may want some LED or other lights for the workshop. No you definately NEED the incra fence. Takes me an extra 2 minutes to set up and is ridiculously more accurate. Plus I get like 32" of rip capacity with even the smaller incra setup. Hi rizzoa13 you mention the smaller version of the Incra fence. Several questions: 1. Is the Mafell side router extension wing required for the Incra to be installed? Are the dovetail Mafell tracks required? 2. How practical is it to remove/reinstall the fence for periodic transport? 3. How far does the fence assembly extend beyond the edge of the saw's main surface? 4. Could you post the model # of the fence you have? 5. Does installation require extensive alterations to the Erika (I think Holmz referenced a recently installed fence, but I can't find that thread) Thanks, Chris |
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 24, 2017 18:33:55 GMT -5
Hi naildrivingman,
The incra fence does not require the mafell outfeed table. 6 incra brackets are attached to the side of the saw. The fence comes with machine screws, I just drilled and tapped the holes by hand for the rails.
It is a pretty extensive alteration. I drilled and tapped the holes, cut the rails down to length so it wasn't too long, built a side table out of plywood and 2x4 framing and then cut the hole for the router table. With all that said it's still so worth it.
Time to install is low. You'll get used to doing it by yourself but t is much easier with a helper to get it on quick. Takes me an extra 3 minutes or so.
If your interested I'll look up the model number of what you need but you can take a look at my thread "tricked out Erika" it goes through it pretty well in depth. Cheers
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Post by GhostFist on Oct 20, 2017 16:32:57 GMT -5
I'm pretty happy with the rip fence and mafell extensions. I made a simple outfeed plate (photos have been taken). I often use it as support on the left side when using the pull function for cross cuts and miters. I can also configure it for an outfeed table when ripping longer stock. I easily supports an 8' rip. Love my Erika more and more every day. Once you get into playing with it. It's just so adaptable with a tiny footprint. Tucks away nice and neat too.
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Post by GhostFist on Oct 24, 2017 8:01:25 GMT -5
Ok so I'm a bit of a weirdo, but as a point of reference efficiency check type thing, I'll sometimes time myself at a regular work pace doing certain tasks. 2 mins 40sec blade change in gloves. Includes removing then replacing overhead dust hood. Important not to race but work at a relaxed normal pace
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Post by GhostFist on Oct 25, 2017 8:05:44 GMT -5
Adding to the self timing/efficiency thing. I'm averaging 2 minutes 30 seconds for a blade change operation. For switching from a rip outfeed configuration to an outfeed/support for pulled operations, I'm timing myself at 3 minutes. This kind of thing helps you calculate non productive time and gives you a data baseline for order of operations or perhaps considering alternate machinery or methods of work.
Might create a new subthread for this if there's interest.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Oct 25, 2017 15:05:57 GMT -5
Ok so I'm a bit of a weirdo, but as a point of reference efficiency check type thing, I'll sometimes time myself at a regular work pace doing certain tasks. 2 mins 40sec blade change in gloves. Includes removing then replacing overhead dust hood. Important not to race but work at a relaxed normal pace I found blade changes on the Erika to be no worse than any other table saw I've worked on. The arbor lock is generously sized ad easy to engage, the 6mm wrench stores on the blade shroud so that's handy, and if anything falls into the shroud it's a relatively easy task to retrieve it. 2-3 minutes sounds right-on to me  |
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Post by GhostFist on Oct 25, 2017 16:53:16 GMT -5
I agree Tom. Just collecting some numbers so we have something to measure. Would be nice to get a pool of data from various users so we can create an overall average. If anyone has a faster average time would be nice to know what they are doing different, stressing of course that you're not racing the clock or others, just working at your natural pace. To go intobfurther detail each operation can be broken down into individual steps and each step can be timed. This allows us to see what takes the most time so we can analyse how to streamline the whole process.
I know it sounds like a lot of nonsense but it's a way to prove and improve overall efficiency.
For example. One site has a pile of lumber that needs to be cut to the same length.
Using a miter saw station, what are the individual steps taken to achieve this task and times for each step.
Compare that to using a kss saw or something similar and cutting off the pile.
Which is actually saving time?
How does this affect your profit?
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Post by arvid on Oct 25, 2017 17:04:52 GMT -5
I agree Tom. Just collecting some numbers so we have something to measure. Would be nice to get a pool of data from various users so we can create an overall average. If anyone has a faster average time would be nice to know what they are doing different, stressing of course that you're not racing the clock or others, just working at your natural pace. To go intobfurther detail each operation can be broken down into individual steps and each step can be timed. This allows us to see what takes the most time so we can analyse how to streamline the whole process. I know it sounds like a lot of nonsense but it's a way to prove and improve overall efficiency. For example. One site has a pile of lumber that needs to be cut to the same length. Using a miter saw station, what are the individual steps taken to achieve this task and times for each step. Compare that to using a kss saw or something similar and cutting off the pile. Which is actually saving time? How does this affect your profit? i framed houses for years. some guys would set up a miter saw station for precut things and said it saved them time. But my theory was i want to pick up and move lumber as few times as possible so i always cut on the pile and took it right to where it needed to go. i felt the miter saw station i was handling the lumber too many times to save myself any time. headers we just nailed them together marked them and cut them right on the pile and brought them over to where the door or window was to be framed. jack studs we just cut 11-1/2 off a stud from the top layer of a skid of 2x4's then nailed them to the full one lying underneath then brought them to the wall being framed. rafters were the only thing i'd knock together two 16 -20 foot saw horses out of what ever 2x10 lying around and spread out as many would fit then mark them all with a template and cut my way down the line. but even then it was lift onto the horses, cut then bring them were they needed to go. less wasted lifting, moving and steps. move the lumber once where it needs to go. or try you best. i can honestly say i have never used a miter saw station for anything but running trim work. |
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