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Post by jchmulder on Jul 25, 2016 7:09:07 GMT -5
After having purchased the MT55cc last week, I put it to the test on a relatively simple furniture project (nightstands). However, I'm having trouble acquiring dead square cuts (over a 18" length). I checked the Mafell and third party miter guides but no way I can justify that price to my wife after having bought the MT55 Checking the rails however, shows me two t-tracks on the bottom. Obviously I could just mount some sort of straight edge on it using two t-bolts. Check and calibrate once, use for the rest of the day. Has anyone attempted this? Succeeded? Seems like a dead simple solution to acquire square cuts. If no one has tried it yet, I'm going for it soon so I promise to post some pictures if it works out (and if it doesn't......).
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Post by holmz on Jul 25, 2016 8:30:45 GMT -5
There is a Bosch FSN. www.powertoolworld.co.uk/bosch-fsn-wan-mitre-segment#grefA square to mark the piece and the rail laid on it is also easy. Or two Dog holes east/west to alibg the thing being cut, and two dog holes aligned north/south to butt the rail against also work. Pretty mush like an MFT. Or I do not understand and need a picture....
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Post by jchmulder on Jul 25, 2016 9:18:56 GMT -5
Thanks! I just found out about Bosch being the same rails. It's cheaper, but still pricey. Dogs don't work because I don't have a bench (yet, planning to make one in the winter).
I would love to build some sort of 90degree fence that attaches to the rails. Make it one big speed square! I'm now looking for t-bolts that fit into the slot in the rails. If anyone knows a european vendor for it let me know!
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Post by GhostFist on Jul 25, 2016 11:21:28 GMT -5
I think we've found that kreg t bolts fit. Though I haven't tried
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Post by jchmulder on Jul 25, 2016 12:24:54 GMT -5
I think we've found that kreg t bolts fit. Though I haven't tried I found those articles! I think I'm just gonna take the plunge, pun intended, and but the Kreg ones even though they're expensive. SaveSave
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Post by erik on Jul 25, 2016 13:06:53 GMT -5
If I need accurate sq to sq cuts I typically square up my reference edges by butting the non-cutting side of the track to a square, keep the track in place- move the square and cut away. Same method for the cuts to follow. The longer and heavier the square the better, that way minimize whacking it out of alignment when you butt your track to it.
It's quick and accurate as along as your careful when transitioning.
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Post by toomanytoys on Jul 25, 2016 23:05:54 GMT -5
Rick (bumpnstump) over at eureka zone track saw forum comes up with many inventive ideas for working with that brand of tracksaw. That brands original track non-movable square worked very well for me, but it was precision machined. Their later models were adjustable and many had issues as it would get knocked out of square. Never cared to invest in trying it. Rick showed this as he had good results with it, relying on the squares lip to register off the track groove. Not sure our tracks are deep enough for the lip. .
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Post by jchmulder on Jul 26, 2016 2:53:22 GMT -5
Rick (bumpnstump) over at eureka zone track saw forum comes up with many inventive ideas for working with that brand of tracksaw. That brands original track non-movable square worked very well for me, but it was precision machined. Their later models were adjustable and many had issues as it would get knocked out of square. Never cared to invest in trying it. Rick showed this as he had good results with it, relying on the squares lip to register off the track groove. Not sure our tracks are deep enough for the lip. . This was roughly the same idea I had. But registering it off the other track is a good idea. I contact Kreg yesterday, and they were willing to send me two bolts for FREE I'm not an owner of a Kreg jig of any kind, yet, but this kind of customer service makes sure I'm bringing back a jig when I'm in the US in August. No I just wait for the bolts to arrive. For clarity; what I want to do is use the FW-WA (miter attachment) concept and apply it to my f160 rail. I think that's the best way of describing it. What material is the rail made of, aluminium? I'm trying to mimick it's style as much as possible.
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Post by holmz on Jul 26, 2016 6:14:21 GMT -5
Rick (bumpnstump) over at eureka zone track saw forum comes up with many inventive ideas for working with that brand of tracksaw. That brands original track non-movable square worked very well for me, but it was precision machined. Their later models were adjustable and many had issues as it would get knocked out of square. Never cared to invest in trying it. Rick showed this as he had good results with it, relying on the squares lip to register off the track groove. Not sure our tracks are deep enough for the lip. This was roughly the same idea I had. But registering it off the other track is a good idea. I contact Kreg yesterday, and they were willing to send me two bolts for FREE I'm not an owner of a Kreg jig of any kind, yet, but this kind of customer service makes sure I'm bringing back a jig when I'm in the US in August. No I just wait for the bolts to arrive. For clarity; what I want to do is use the FW-WA (miter attachment) concept and apply it to my f160 rail. I think that's the best way of describing it. What material is the rail made of, aluminium? I'm trying to mimick it's style as much as possible. The Bosch miter job fits the Mafell stuff. The price may be less than the time cost?
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Post by jchmulder on Jul 26, 2016 6:34:59 GMT -5
This was roughly the same idea I had. But registering it off the other track is a good idea. I contact Kreg yesterday, and they were willing to send me two bolts for FREE I'm not an owner of a Kreg jig of any kind, yet, but this kind of customer service makes sure I'm bringing back a jig when I'm in the US in August. No I just wait for the bolts to arrive. For clarity; what I want to do is use the FW-WA (miter attachment) concept and apply it to my f160 rail. I think that's the best way of describing it. What material is the rail made of, aluminium? I'm trying to mimick it's style as much as possible. The Bosch miter job fits the Mafell stuff. The price may be less than the time cost? Considering I also need the rail connector that would get me close to 100$. Not alot compared to US prices ofcourse, but more than enough to try and fix someting up myself :-) It's not my profession, just a hobby.
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Post by reflector on Jul 26, 2016 13:32:10 GMT -5
I have the Bosch rail miter attachment, it was part of an larger order I made off Amazon.de. When I used it to break down and clean up the factory edge some plywood I found that measuring corner to corner that my cuts were square on a 2'x3' panel.
I consider it sufficiently accurate and the only improvement I think it needs for non 90 cuts is to use a fixed angle gauge to set it or a digital protractor.
I am pretty sure it's identical to the Mafell one.
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Post by holmz on Jul 26, 2016 15:41:20 GMT -5
I have the Bosch rail miter attachment, it was part of an larger order I made off Amazon.de. When I used it to break down and clean up the factory edge some plywood I found that measuring corner to corner that my cuts were square on a 2'x3' panel. I consider it sufficiently accurate and the only improvement I think it needs for non 90 cuts is to use a fixed angle gauge to set it or a digital protractor. I am pretty sure it's identical to the Mafell one. other than the writing and colour of it.
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Post by toomanytoys on Aug 7, 2016 22:49:32 GMT -5
Jchmulder, Tom G. Has a thread going on about using cleats with his Festool tables, and in one of the pictures it appears he uses the Mafell/Bosch angle attachment that's been mentioned here as attachment to rails to guide rail cuts. Just thought it would fit into this discussion to see it in use.
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