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Post by rizzoa13 on May 1, 2016 19:37:31 GMT -5
Ok pics! Pic 1 shows how the brackets screw right into the frame work of the dovetail on the side of the saw Pic 2 shows how much rail I have on the right side of the blade. Pic 3 is another perspective Pic 4- no turning back, portaband solved every problem! Pic 5- 45" is how much you want from the saw blade to the end of the rails on the right. Usually you'd overhang the extra rail length to the left of the blade but it's unneccesary and not double with the rail for the sliding table mounted to the left of the blade. This is as far as I can get until the base plate comes in this week. Check back soon for the finished product. Edit: pics 4 and 5 are flip flopped |
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 3, 2016 9:41:23 GMT -5
Alright! So it's raining and I'm pretty caught up on my interior work so I took a personal day and finished up the incra install! L Went to to the little place I'm doing work and set up in the living room to get some peace and quite. Started off taking off the original machine screws I was using and re-installed the mounting brackets for the increase rails. I got a hand tap and drilled and tapped 6x 3/8-24 holes into the dovetail rail of the saw (pics 1 and 2). This is much sturdier than the little machine screws into the Erika frame holes. Got everything together and calibrated it in a few leisurely hours and here are the results. My thoughts on the whole thing is that it's amazingly sturdy and well built. It's also HEAVY. Much heavier and more awkward to fold up and put the saw away with everything on it, and I don't even have a table insert yet. So that being said i practiced sliding the rails on and off of the brackets and it's doable for one person, simple for 2. This is going to be how my saw rides in the trailer and I'll make a home for it soon. I put some positive stops in the rails so I can slide them back on up to the stop, tighten the bracket hardware and everything will be square and calibrated to the saw blade without having to actually calibrate it again. Later today I'll try and get the Jessem stock guides mounted onto the top of the fence and get more pictures. |
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Post by GhostFist on May 3, 2016 11:21:28 GMT -5
That is looking poetry sweet. What is your rip capacity now? How much did this cost you? Are the brackets easily removable?
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 3, 2016 14:27:47 GMT -5
Rip capacity is 32" as I've got it setup. There was room for another 16" or so before I cut it down but it was just obnoxiously large at that point.
I've got probably $800 in the fence. The brackets can be taken off from the machine really easily with a 14mm wrench they just thread in and out of the holes i threaded in the frame. My plan is to leave the brackets on as they are height adjusted so the fence rides well across the table top. I'll take the rails and positioner off as a whole unit and leave the brackets installed. That only takes loosening 6 other 14mm bolts and sliding the whole thing out.
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Post by holmz on May 3, 2016 15:43:44 GMT -5
It was the brackets I was thinking about the dowel pins.
Ideally they would all be drilled first at 0.185"
Then when installed, reamed at 0.1865"
Then the choice is ream the table holes to 0.1885" , and leave the pins in the brackets or visa versa.
Watching to understand if the brackets need to come off ever...
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 3, 2016 18:29:26 GMT -5
I'll take more pics tomorrow for you to show you how it all comes on and off. The brackets should never come off though. You set those at a height all the way across that makes the fence level across the whole table. By leaving the brackets on and just taking the rails and everything else off them you don't lose that calibrated height. The placement of the rails on the brackets is what zeroes the fence to the saw blade. That's why I have a but and flat bolt on the bottom of the track as a positive stop. You push the rails back on until they don't go any further, tighten the brackets and your back in business with a fence that's still flat to the table and zeroed to the fence. I think it's kind of slick of you ask me  ? |
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Post by holmz on May 4, 2016 2:24:40 GMT -5
I'll take more pics tomorrow for you to show you how it all comes on and off. The brackets should never come off though. ... That was the main question I had, and the point of the dowel pins. But if the brackets do not need to come off then it's "job done". |
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Post by GhostFist on May 4, 2016 4:22:54 GMT -5
I asked about their removal In case set up space was limited and you wanted to use the Erika in its original state.
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 4, 2016 5:56:59 GMT -5
In that case the brackets do come on and off easily. Once you slide the rails off its just 6 14mm machine screws. .
With them on thoigh you only lose the front and back dovetails. I never even used the front or back dovetails with the sliding table and MFA fence. Id have the MFA on the sliding table for crosscuts and on th right side of the blade for rips.
Either way it can come on and off and you could recalibrate it in a matter of minutes of need be.
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Post by jonathan on May 4, 2016 9:16:25 GMT -5
You could also mount the Incra gear to the brackets Mafell uses for the sliding table beam.
Once set up those retain their calibration and can be removed and slid on/off without re-calibration.
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 4, 2016 13:00:59 GMT -5
You could also mount the Incra gear to the brackets Mafell uses for the sliding table beam. Once set up those retain their calibration and can be removed and slid on/off without re-calibration. Those mount by tightening a set screw on the face of the rails to tighten onto the dovetail groove right? The Incra rails would mount to the same surface youd need open to access those set screws (i think). |
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 4, 2016 13:03:20 GMT -5
Nevermind I see what your saying now Jonathan. You'd need 2 of those sliding rails (front and back) to do it that way. You'd also be bringing it down a little bit and may not be able to get the Incra setup high enough.
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Post by rizzoa13 on May 6, 2016 6:24:02 GMT -5
Ok so I need to build the side table now. I've never built a router table so does anyone have any advice on material to use? I've worked with phenolic and like the machining and strength of it but it was pretty heavy.
What's going to give me a surface that stays dead flat, doesn't sag and not weigh a ton?
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Post by Eoj on May 6, 2016 6:37:37 GMT -5
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Post by jimbouk on May 6, 2016 8:11:20 GMT -5
Ok so I need to build the side table now. I've never built a router table so does anyone have any advice on material to use? I've worked with phenolic and like the machining and strength of it but it was pretty heavy. What's going to give me a surface that stays dead flat, doesn't sag and not weigh a ton? I would go with a laminate face ply. Wisa do one that is very strong and light weight. |
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