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Post by arvid on Jan 9, 2017 16:19:55 GMT -5
Hope that in a month or two I have something to show up then!  i just looked at the fence they make for the router table. it has attachments designed to hold down and hold tight to the router fence. i wonder if you can use this a a rip fence as well and have the same results as using feather boards. |
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dam8
New Member
Posts: 14 
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Post by dam8 on Jan 22, 2017 23:15:01 GMT -5
I used my 55 exclusively for interior finish work for several years. Primarily due to the dust created by chop saws. It did take longer to make cofounder mitres. I put my saw on a ball bearing rotator so I could set the wild end on a support and achieve great cuts. I do have a kapex so I use it for crown, but small intricate pieces, nothing beats erika
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Post by naildrivingman on Sept 23, 2017 10:12:37 GMT -5
Ok for those that have this, I've heard mixed reviews. Is this fence rigid up to the back of the blade? Preferably up to the back of the riving knife. How good is the micro adjust? Anyone able to snap some pics for me of this installed? Love always, GhostFist I use the MFA on the slide side and the standard assembly that came with it on the right when I need to rip. Last week I had to rip some short (maybe 20") pieces of cherry edge banding about 3/16" thick. I centered the standard protractor setup on the blade on the right side in the center (table saw) position and the results were fine. Obviously on a long rip , a full length fence would be the ticket.... So, I'm wondering...if I buy the Erika 70 and add the MFA, does the MFA substitute for the standard miter gauge or would I get both? I like the idea of having a "miter/bevel station on the left side with the MFA and a rip station on the right side using the universal gauge. |
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Post by GhostFist on Nov 1, 2017 13:41:45 GMT -5
The 70 comes with the standard miter fence. The mfa would be an add on as would the rip fence. While any of the fences are fine for ripping. I much prefer the rip fence for accuracy and rigidity. (I know, apparently I'm the only person who thinks so). My rip fence is outfitted with some t-bolts that I use to attach the long fence attachment and I mount it on the flat. Totally reliable 100%accurate from my experience
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Post by naildrivingman on Nov 27, 2017 21:45:03 GMT -5
I feel the cast iron fence is simple and elegant. I use the 1m extrusion and the rear hold down clamp. It is a little fussy to set and I wouldn’t consider the fence to be ideal for multiple width changes, but say one is ripping 1x6 to 4 1/16”, this setup will do really well. I have no regrets about buying the rip fence and extrusion extension.
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Post by GhostFist on Nov 28, 2017 17:10:47 GMT -5
I don't bother clamping the extension at the back. I attach it laying flat for extra rigidity and a lower profile. yes there is deflection if you push on the fence at the back end of the saw but if you're keeping your workpiece tight to the fence right up to when it passes the blade, this I feel isn't a concern.
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Post by naildrivingman on Dec 13, 2017 6:22:12 GMT -5
Reading Jonathan’s comments on how to set the rip fence, I have an amendment that works for me.
1. I set the rip fence off the blade and tighten the coarse adjustment screw first, leaving the fine adjustment loose.
2. I double check that the coarse adjustment dovetail “foot” is tight to the rail of the saw.
3. I tighten the micro adjust screw and check the cut width.
3a. If the width is correct, I proceed to cut
3b. If the width is incorrect, I loosen the coarse screw and adjust with the micro adjustment, then re-tighten the coarse adjustment.
Because of the “camming” action of the two halves of the dovetail (normal), the fence can creep when the coarse screw is tightened. I think this technique resolves much if not all of the creep.
Thanks Jonathan and all for your insights into this accessory.
Best Regards,
Chris
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