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Post by holmz on Apr 22, 2017 4:52:58 GMT -5
Had tyre wear, so I got the Mrs Forester aligned Friday and 3 new tyres. The one in the boot was swapped with a pretty new one, so 4 newish tyres However with the MT55 I have not noticed anything that warrants worrying about it needing any alignment. calidecks : I am not not sure which points were good but the saying goes, "even a blink pig finds an acorn once in a while". I was all concerned about blades, but I am not using it 40 hours a week - so from my perspective they seem to last nearly forever. I did order 4 blades for the Erika... on thursday
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Post by kraftt on Apr 22, 2017 10:32:08 GMT -5
To both posts - I don’t know. ( holmz, good point ). Combinations of variables like material, speed settings, tooth grind, feed rate, if the “toe-in” is set correctly on saw (base plate guide to upper motor/arbor alignment). I suppose if you own 240v or 110v 50hz or if you use the 110v 50hz on 60hz can even make speed comparisons vary. Certainly one part of the solution is an assortment of blades to take demand off of 'best' blades which is where the lower cost Tenryu’s came in for me when I’m not cutting sheet (or depending on how you pronounce that last word - when I am cutting sheet). ............... nothing about this adjustment you speak of. The 4 flat-blade/torx head recessed screws on the base with spiral grip washers that are factory set, might have thread locker on them too. ----------------- btw - when you are adjusting the two allen’s for 90º how in the heck do you know if the top is resting on one you left higher than the other creating the possibility of flex when you apply enough pressure?? Are you supposed to use some feeler shims? Which brings up something that’s been on the back of my mind… for the trouble of adjusting blade to be 90º to the base - don’t the non-slip (204376) rail grips deform enough, depending on how weight/pressure is biased, to throw the 90º off?
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Post by reflector on May 21, 2017 23:26:25 GMT -5
Used the 28T Tenryu for rip cuts in some really funky dimensional 2x that was pretty warped and full of nasty grain. Did it on the tracks, but they were supported on the other side by a 2x4 to prevent wobbling on some cuts and in others I had clamps that I'd remove as I made my way down. Worked out pretty well there weren't too many marks. You'll "feel it" more than the 12T but I could push the MT55 faster and get the motor to load down a little. Emphasis on "a little" because while I felt more resistance in the cut, that came more from the wood pinching down on the blade. More excus---justified logical reasons to get a KSS60 with a riving knife.
Still would say if you didn't care about the surface finish afterwards and were OK With some marks, the 12T is awesome.
The cyclone definitely put a show on, I had it right in front of me and it was like feeding a piece of 2x down the Bosch tablesaw.
Edit: I'm going to leave a note that I power the vacuum and MT55 off different circuits. The MT55 gets to be on the 20 amp circuit and the vacuum gets to be on the 15 amp circuit. I can hear the vacuum slow down when I use it with my other tools when its on the same (15 amp) circuit. That includes the 6.5 amp Bosch sander that has forced rotation like the Rotex.
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Post by garagegrump on Sept 27, 2017 23:01:12 GMT -5
Thinking purely in terms of kerf, has anyone found something thicker than the Tenryu's 2.2mm ?
Something I confronted lately in fitting floor panels to my parents' roof space was studwork protruding above the desired level for the floor panels. Space was too tight to use a hand saw to cut them down.
I managed to get the old (100+ yrs) studs flush with the joists by setting the track up on the battens above the end of the stud and making repeated cuts across the endgrain with the MT55. With only a 1.8mm kerf this took a while. Something a bit wider would be good for cutting shallow housings or lap joints too.
I know this isn't what the MT55 is designed for and a wide kerf places extra load on the motor, but I'm not planing on full depth cuts.
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Post by kraftt on Nov 21, 2017 18:55:29 GMT -5
Just an info dump. Was looking at the Makita blades to save some bucks over the Bosch blades since it wouldn't get much use and noticed that for their cordless they offer & supply new, rather thin, kerf blades compared to the previous corded version. Might be worth investigating for the cordless MT55. I've also listed a few 165mm diameter blades below with the caveat that anyone new to mafell understand that these are not for use in the MT55. Some people do use a 165 in their MT55 but do so at their own risk. ( o.h. = over hang )Mafell 092584: Listed as - (1.8mm / 1.2mm) 162 dia. ATB (48 tooth) = .3mm o.h. sample measures - (1.95mm / 1.24mm) = .355mm o.h. Tenryu PSW-160 28CBD2: Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.6mm) 160 dia. ATB (28 tooth) = .3mm o.h. sample measures - (2.2mm / 1.65mm) = .275mm o.h.
Tenryu PSW-160 12CBD2: Listed as - *(2.2mm / 1.6mm) 160 dia. ATB (12 tooth) = .3mm o.h. *Tenryu says what is currently listed on website is wrong for this blade their actual Kerf/Plate is 2.38mm / 1.6mm sample measures - (2.43mm / 1.63mm) = .40mm o.h. (my sample will trim splinter guard by .045mm)Makita B-07353: (made by Tenryu) (A/C version blade) Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.57mm) *165 dia. (48 tooth) = .315 o.h Makita B-57342: (not made by Tenryu) (Cordless version blade) (getting a bit thin, may flex in hardwoods & trim s.g.) Listed as - (1.45mm / 1.mm) *165 dia. (56 tooth) = .225 o.h Makita A-99960: (not made by Tenryu) (Cordless version blade) (made in China) (average about $27 amazon) Listed as - (2.0mm / 1.4mm) *165 dia. (28 tooth) = .300 o.h sample measures - (2.057mm / 1.422mm) = .3175mm o.hBosch 2 608 642 385: Listed as - (1.8mm / 1.3mm) *165 dia. ATB (24 tooth) = .25mm o.h. (average about $32usd shipped from amazon.de)Bosch 2 608 642 384: Listed as - (1.8mm / 1.3mm) *165 dia. ATB (48 tooth) = .25mm o.h. (average about $36 shipped from amazon.de) sample measures - (1.85mm / 1.27mm) = .290mm o.h*Bosch blades LINK 1 - LINK 2Freud LU 79R006M20: Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.6mm) 160 dia. Hi-ATB (48 tooth) = .3mm o.h. Freud LU 96R006M20: Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.6mm) 160 dia. TCG (48 tooth) = .3mm o.h. ( Freud lists two other lower tooth count 160mm dia / 20mm arbor blades but their o.ver h.ang will trim splinter guard) -------------------------------------------------- CMT-496300-F LINK $99 ( vs mafell TimberWolf $409) Fiber Cement Saw Blade - 160mm x 4-tooth, 20mm Bore Listed as - (1.7mm / 1.39mm) 160 dia. (4 tooth) = .311mm o.h. *(according to listed specs - verify if you intend to use on guide rail) Bosch 2 608 644 122 LINK $80 ~ $120 Fiber Cement Saw Blade - *165 dia. x 4-tooth, 20mm Bore Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.6mm) *165 dia. (4 tooth) TCG = .3mm o.h.
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Post by erik on Jul 18, 2018 19:00:45 GMT -5
Went to order a 16t for the kss 400 at saw the price looks to at least doubled in the past 3 years...okay. So glade to see these alternatives have been presented. 😀
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Post by kraftt on Jul 18, 2018 20:45:39 GMT -5
I’ve been using Tenryu’s 28T for basic materials and the 12T for rough ply & lumber. I think they are good blades and now leave the 28T in as default but sometimes forget it’s in and am still pleased with the cut in nicer material. I do keep blades clean though.
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Post by holmz on Jul 19, 2018 3:57:32 GMT -5
I’ve been using Tenryu’s 28T for basic materials and the 12T for rough ply & lumber. I think they are good blades and now leave the 28T in as default but sometimes forget it’s in and am still pleased with the cut in nicer material. I do keep blades clean though. Well they say, "a d'orty blade saps power".
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Post by kraftt on Jul 19, 2018 8:10:10 GMT -5
I updated the blade list above to add the 12T Tenryu with the caveat that one of my samples did barely trim splinter guard. I purposely keep a beater 160 guide rail with a messed up splinter guard for rough cutting though. The 12T as you can imagine feels like you forgot to put a blade in the saw, but cuts are still smooth.
(edit - also added two 48T Freud blades for laminate and the CMT & Bosch's Fiber Cement 4 tooth blade to list.)
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Post by kraftt on Jul 31, 2018 19:10:32 GMT -5
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Post by kraftt on Aug 29, 2018 8:57:40 GMT -5
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Post by holmz on Aug 29, 2018 14:46:57 GMT -5
The hillbilly blades are a missin a few teeth.
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Post by thehandyman on Aug 31, 2018 9:40:54 GMT -5
Looks like they're going to offer a 162mm as well as KSS 300 / KSS 40 120mm blades. Still don't see anything about plate thickness. http://instagr.am/p/BnCCJbUA6_7 New Mafell blades will be available in November. 120 mm blade will be 30 tooth (more to come) I checked in with them. 👍🏻
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Post by henrun on Sept 1, 2018 10:17:02 GMT -5
Multiple choices are good to have for sure. Changed tyres on my Forester before a long haul drive up north, could not believe how silent the new set was compared to the old "same dB rated" tyres... ...at least until the Turbo kicks in... ...with that in mind the sound a blade missing a tooth makes when cutting studs is... ...interesting. At least I have a blade for cutting down plasterboard now.
EDIT: correction of blade name:
Dropped by to report that using the 165mm Bosch "Silent technology" Top Precision "Best for Wood" blade - it still cuts like a champ and clears the saw on the MT55. I can't see how the units would vary to the degree of the blade touching any part of the machine housing but YMMV - I am just reporting that sheet goods and benchtops have been cut down to size with the 165mm blade with no slowing down of the machine and with fabulous results.
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Post by kraftt on Sept 1, 2018 12:36:18 GMT -5
Multiple choices are good to have for sure. Dropped by to report that using the 165mm Bosch "Silent" Optimum for Wood blade - it still cuts like a champ and clears the saw on the MT55. I can't see how the units would vary to the degree of the blade touching any part of the machine housing but YMMV - I am just reporting that sheet goods and benchtops have been cut down to size with the 165mm blade with no slowing down of the machine and with fabulous results. Yup, no issues for me either with Bosch 165's. I guess if there ever is any clearance issues they'll take care of themselves, and with machined results. I didn't see a listing for the Bosch Silent Optimum... do you have a part #er. I do see their Optiline. Maybe it's regional naming. I've been picking up what they call their 'top Precision', is that the same thing? (wax all over blades)
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