|
Post by Red on Dec 20, 2015 8:58:06 GMT -5
I was brought into it a little late, but one of our OSB panels was cut -- with a hole saw -- for a PVC pass-through that was previously installed in the wall. Well, the hole was cut off-center...but this wasn't discovered immediately (due to some distortion/bowing in the panel)...
...So I'm looking at this OSB panel that won't clear the PVC fitting that's protruding out of the wall and I'm thinking of every possible "rig" imaginable to enlarge the hole in place. In the end, we ended up using a Dremel tool -- and who knows how many dollars worth of [the wrong] attachments and time -- to make said hole larger.
Does anyone on the board have experience with the RotoZip type tools and, if so, would you care to share which one you like best for an unforeseen "emergency job" like the one I just described?
By the way, the panel in question couldn't be removed because numerous fasteners were already in place...and when it comes to fastening through ICFs, you don't want to reinstall a lot of fasteners (causes too much surface damage).
|
|
|
Post by toomanytoys on Dec 20, 2015 11:07:04 GMT -5
Hey, it's me again.
Man, when I first saw the post and the OP I was "NOOOOO, he's not thinking" (about the foundation top edge).
I've had one since they first came out. Got ALL the accessories you could possibly find, including the now hard to find vacuum adapter to minimize dust.
The only time I really use it is to bail me out of a situation where I didn't get things cut correctly, and that is usually similar to what you just noted. There are times it works where the Fein Multi or a jigsaw is not the best choice. With the pilot nose bit it does well to cut a 1/8" relief to whatever it can follow behind the board.
If I need to cut out a panel to a straight line to get inside a wall (after I've bored a hole and looked inside with my Snap-On borescope), I screw on a follower board to use as a guide as freehanding get just a little wobbly.
Now with a few decades of experience would I buy it again ....... only as the bail out tool. For me, I'd get a good used one unless there was something fantastic about the newer versions.
|
|
|
Post by Red on Dec 20, 2015 22:50:02 GMT -5
Hey, it's me again. Man, when I first saw the post and the OP I was "NOOOOO, he's not thinking" (about the foundation top edge). I've had one since they first came out. Got ALL the accessories you could possibly find, including the now hard to find vacuum adapter to minimize dust. The only time I really use it is to bail me out of a situation where I didn't get things cut correctly, and that is usually similar to what you just noted. There are times it works where the Fein Multi or a jigsaw is not the best choice. With the pilot nose bit it does well to cut a 1/8" relief to whatever it can follow behind the board. If I need to cut out a panel to a straight line to get inside a wall (after I've bored a hole and looked inside with my Snap-On borescope), I screw on a follower board to use as a guide as freehanding get just a little wobbly. Now with a few decades of experience would I buy it again ....... only as the bail out tool. For me, I'd get a good used one unless there was something fantastic about the newer versions. Thanks very much, as ever, Jack...and, don't worry, the interior OSB install is still under way -- so no decisions on which saw will be used to make that final (top) cut we've been corresponding about (on the Need Some Thoughts board). But thanks for having the proverbial straight jacket at the ready.
|
|
|
Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 21, 2015 8:54:36 GMT -5
I've used, don't own a RotoZip. Don't think it's the right tool for the job. How about a sawzall or a compass/keyhole saw.
John
|
|
|
Post by Red on Dec 21, 2015 9:00:08 GMT -5
In the scene I described I in the original post, John, there simply wasn't any room for our Sawzall (or a hand-held key saw, for that matter). What I really could've used was a small plunge router, but, alas, we've only got king-sized routers, as well. It was truly a finesse job; hence, my thoughts about something like a RotoZip.
|
|
|
Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 21, 2015 12:58:29 GMT -5
Hmm... I wrote a response and it seems to have vanished.
Sorry Red, can't see it from here. I owned a Japanese keyhole saw with an 8" or 10" blade which I used to finesse openings in cabinet backs and siding. How about an oscillating multi tool?
John
|
|
|
Post by Red on Dec 21, 2015 13:04:50 GMT -5
Hmm... I wrote a response and it seems to have vanished. Sorry Red, can't see it from here. I owned a Japanese keyhole saw with an 8" or 10" blade which I used to finesse openings in cabinet backs and siding. How about an oscillating multi tool? John PLEASE point me to one, John. I know nothing about them and, quite frankly, that's why I asked the question in the first place.
|
|
|
Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 21, 2015 16:32:15 GMT -5
Pretty much every manufacturer makes an oscillating multi tool, they're available both corded and cordless. For many years Fein was the gold standard. Festool has recently the market, their version is said to high quality as well. Sad to say I'm too much of a Luddite to be able to provide a link. Search for Fein Super Cut or Festool Vecturo for more info.
John
|
|
|
Post by toomanytoys on Dec 21, 2015 16:50:13 GMT -5
Mine is ancient compared to this video. I have every tool mentioned so far and for a situation of a pvc pipe offset to a predrilled hole I would have dusted off the Rotozip.
On edit, my thought was like that after a minute or more into the video, using the follower bit piloted off the pipe just as is done to the framing. I've never used the follower bit to plunge in ply or OSB, I've always drilled a hole first. For clearing a window, I use a Sawzall rather then this. Plaster board, yep, easy to do. OSB and ply, it takes some force as you can see when the guy finishes his cut and moves due to the lack of resistance. But for the smaller stuff like you described, I think it would be good.
|
|
|
Post by ohan on Dec 24, 2015 5:27:09 GMT -5
Don't know if this is true or just marketing hoo-ha, but the Fein rep at a recent show I attended said:
1. Fein actually makes the multi tools for Festool
and
2, There's going to be a tool-less, pin-less, snap on version of the blades for the new tools coming out next year. The blades will be backwards compatible with older tools, so they'll still work with the little pin and clamp mechanism, but the new ones just snap into place. He had a demo version, but it didn't have a power cord attached, with led me to believe the blade attachment wasn't 100% sorted yet (maybe they vibrate off?). He also said he expected the new tools to maintain the current price point. This info let me to lay off buying a tool at the show - I can live with my old one until the new one comes out and has all the bugs fixed. The latest version is so much more powerful and has less vibration than my ancient one.
|
|
|
Post by Red on Dec 24, 2015 10:46:51 GMT -5
Don't know if this is true or just marketing hoo-ha, but the Fein rep at a recent show I attended said: 1. Fein actually makes the multi tools for Festool and 2, There's going to be a tool-less, pin-less, snap on version of the blades for the new tools coming out next year. The blades will be backwards compatible with older tools, so they'll still work with the little pin and clamp mechanism, but the new ones just snap into place. He had a demo version, but it didn't have a power cord attached, with led me to believe the blade attachment wasn't 100% sorted yet (maybe they vibrate off?). He also said he expected the new tools to maintain the current price point. This info let me to lay off buying a tool at the show - I can live with my old one until the new one comes out and has all the bugs fixed. The latest version is so much more powerful and has less vibration than my ancient one. Which show did you attend, Ohan? We take a little time every year to attend the JLC Live show in Providence; hence, the question...
I'm assuming that [your] "...ancient one" is an older Fein Multi-Tool? ...
... and, most importantly, do you like the Fein Multi-Tool for the emergency project that inspired this thread?Merry Christmas,Red
|
|
|
Post by ohan on Dec 24, 2015 16:25:09 GMT -5
Sorry for the semi-thread hijack, Red.
The show was an event in Palm Desert, CA put on my local Festool dealer.
We have the previous version of the multi-tool - I'm not sure what the model number is.
If you didn't have room for a sawzall, I'm going to guess the multi-tool wouldn't fit either. The blade can be rotated 90 degrees to fit in some tight areas, but it still wouldn't be my first choice to cut a round opening. If you were just chipping away at an existing hole, it might've worked though.
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Dec 24, 2015 17:00:47 GMT -5
Don't know if this is true or just marketing hoo-ha, but the Fein rep at a recent show I attended said: 1. Fein actually makes the multi tools for Festool and 2, ... Why is it that people will buy it when it is repainted green, and not the original orange? And claim that the Green tool is better?
|
|
|
Post by Red on Dec 24, 2015 20:35:26 GMT -5
Sorry for the semi-thread hijack, Red. The show was an event in Palm Desert, CA put on my local Festool dealer. We have the previous version of the multi-tool - I'm not sure what the model number is. If you didn't have room for a sawzall, I'm going to guess the multi-tool wouldn't fit either. The blade can be rotated 90 degrees to fit in some tight areas, but it still wouldn't be my first choice to cut a round opening. If you were just chipping away at an existing hole, it might've worked though. The thread turned toward multitools, Ohan, so your posts are more than relevant in my mind.
If you can imagine trying to fit a precut hole over a static PVC sleeve and missing the mark by roughly a 1/4-inch, you'll get the picture. Normally -- and assuming that the error was detected early -- we would simply move it back to the saw horses, expand the hole with our P1cc and move on...in this case, however, more than several fasteners had been installed, which, being an ICF job, makes it [very] impractical to remove the panel.
In short, the panel was pushed very tightly against the PVC, which necessitated a "shallow router-like cut" to make the hole a larger, oval-shaped opening. As I mentioned in the initial post, we ended up "rigging it" with a Dremel Tool and, after wasting a lot of time, got the panel to snap into place.
As for the multitool...I'm always looking for an excuse to acquire a new tool, so I'm very interested in how this type of tool is typically employed.
|
|
|
Post by ohan on Dec 25, 2015 16:12:03 GMT -5
I work in a school so there are lots of opportunities to fix stuff the students do incorrectly. And to demo things. We pretty much use ours for all of the tasks shown here:
The downside to ours is vibration - you really can't use it for a prolonged period of time without losing feeling in your hands. That's why the latest one is more appealing to me: it's supposed to be more powerful, with less vibration, for the same price.
But then I found out about the new mounting system, which made me want to wait until I can see that first. The old mounting system is just fine, it's just that there are multiple pieces and you don't want to drop that pin when you're up on a ladder or something. Having the blade just snap in would be a plus.
|
|