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Post by Red on Dec 16, 2015 9:12:06 GMT -5
We've got a job facing us that demands the right tool combination. In short, we've got to cut the rim of [empty] concrete foundation forms -- inside and out -- to a line transferred via our Topcon rotary lazer. The material is 7/16" OSB and it is already in place...meaning that it's already standing vertically...and, in the likely event that I've messed up the job description, imagine having to use a cutting tool on a standing wall.
My first thought is to [somehow] attach our Mafell guide rails to said walls and [somehow] use our Mafell P1cc to make the actual cuts?
I've never seen a P1cc used on a guide rail, so any thoughts on how stable [or unstable] this might turn out to be would be greatly appreciated...and, if this seems like a good tool to use, please suggest a good blade for the job.
I'd also welcome any suggestions for alternative tools and or combinations...perhaps a small Mafell circular saw?
Merry Christmas, Red
ADDED LATER: There is roughly 350-feet of cutting involved with this particular task...
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 16, 2015 10:11:57 GMT -5
Are the said pieces to be cut level and straight if so I would probably use my 400 with the parallel guide set to the size and make the cut if I couldn't get the size with the parallel guide I would possibly screw a pice of wood onto the guide so I can get a smaller rip. This is presuming all is level and straight. If not then I would maybe screw a strip of wood onto the shutter less the width of the saws Base parallel to the required level and make the cut. If using rails would need screwing on. Which myself personally wouldn't be too keen on doing. The problem p1cc is OK at them type cuts if no choice yet the 400 with the parral guide will achive the results quicker and a better finish
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Post by Red on Dec 16, 2015 10:21:27 GMT -5
The tops of the various OSB panels are not aligned, so any type of guided parallel cut is pretty much out. In fact, the cuts I'm referring to are being relied upon to make the top of the poured concrete foundation walls level and flat, which puts the emphasis on making nice straight/square cuts. Your thoughts on attaching the guide rails are well taken.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 16, 2015 10:30:53 GMT -5
Here is a vid I did of sorting out a mistake it's possible something along Thore lines might be of use
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Post by toomanytoys on Dec 16, 2015 10:40:27 GMT -5
Those of us who have come from another manufacturers tracksaw product have not had an issue drilling into aluminum tracks in the past to set them on vertical surfaces. I understand, doing it into these may be like chewing off your foot to get free from a trap. But it's a tool and scars of accomplishment may be proudly displayed.
Shooting a laser line on the forms then offsetting a line to accommodate the track plus a plywood cleat to keep the rail where it needs to be could also work, but it would not be as stable as fastening the rail directly to the form.
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Post by Red on Dec 16, 2015 11:00:26 GMT -5
Those of us who have come from another manufacturers tracksaw product have not had an issue drilling into aluminum tracks in the past to set them on vertical surfaces. I understand, doing it into these may be like chewing off your foot to get free from a trap. But it's a tool and scars of accomplishment may be proudly displayed. Shooting a laser line on the forms then offsetting a line to accommodate the track plus a plywood cleat to keep the rail where it needs to be could also work, but it would not be as stable as fastening the rail directly to the form. Okay, Jack, so if the guide rail is drilled and attached to the forms, which saw would you use? Do you like the P1cc for this job?
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Post by toomanytoys on Dec 16, 2015 11:36:49 GMT -5
I'm embarrassed to say I have not used the P1CC on a rail as yet ....... But it would be lighter to hold horizontal to the cut and into the tang of the rail.
I have to say Wrightwoodwork scared the you know out of me having the big saw at face level. Kind of sent me back to the eye protection thread and looking for a Kevlar ski mask or seeing what Baileys chain saw site had to offer.
My freehand cuts with the P1CC have been great and I guess my initial thought would be if there was any variation to the cut could it be dressed by sanding. A few test cuts with both saws above the needed line may tell you best about which saw. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 16, 2015 12:02:57 GMT -5
Eye protection all sorted got sick of saw dust in the eyes
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 16, 2015 12:56:25 GMT -5
You could temporarily nail some straight lumber to use as a guide if you didn't want to screw into your guide rails. Though there is a hole already drilled into one end of each rail. You could also fashion a simple cleat to trap one end. The jigsaw would be good if it's high up and you don't want overhead weight when making the cut. If it were me, now that I think about it, I'd rip some straight ply and use that as a guide for the p1cc butting the base up to it. It's light, cuts straight, and you don't have to drill your rails.
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Post by charley1968 on Dec 16, 2015 13:15:56 GMT -5
Depending how high you plan to make the cut, i'd go GhostFists way, but i'd try to use a tracksaw/circular saw..
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Post by mick on Dec 16, 2015 14:51:24 GMT -5
I did drill holes in a festool track a old boss saw to make a cut like that not as long as that but worked fine and would do it with my mafell tracks (counter the sink screws) and kss 400 would not bother me to do it
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Post by lincoln on Dec 16, 2015 15:07:31 GMT -5
Red, you could make up some cleats to hold the rail - unlike the circ saws, the jigsaw base doesn't cover the entire rail. Make up some cleats, fix them to a laser line, then you can run the PC with one hand, hold the rail against the osb with the other. When you get near the end of the rail, slide the rail along to the next set of cleats and continue the cut.
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Post by holmz on Dec 16, 2015 15:12:35 GMT -5
I have only used the [1cc on the track with the extender. I could not figure out how to get edge on lt the track. It is like it wanted to be on the other side of the splinter strip. That said you would almost just mark it with a Texta (Aussy for 'Magic Marker') and free hand an ol' fashioned circular saw to the line. Or use the tracks and the p1cc or a track saw. I think setting up and teardpwn would be the most time consuming. You may get an arm cramp by the end.
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 16, 2015 15:21:43 GMT -5
P1cc works on the track if you over hang it the opposite side of the splinter strip
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Post by lincoln on Dec 16, 2015 15:58:48 GMT -5
P1cc works on the track if you over hang it the opposite side of the splinter strip Beat me to it! There's a black plastic 'foot' in the systainer, that clips onto the base, to make up for the thickness of the rail. Can clip in on either side, depending which way you're cutting.
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