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Post by gooner on Nov 26, 2015 17:22:17 GMT -5
Hello! I bought an Erika 70 two weeks ago and I have some question I hope you guys in here can help me answer. I noticed when I sawed a piece of plywood that the back of the blade scratched the plywood. After this I checked the riving knife and discovered that it is not 90 degrees to the table. Riving knife is also not centerd behind the saw blade, it is a little to the left. I hope you understand what I mean, me english is not perfect. I also checked the saw blade and it is 90 degrees perpendicular to the table, but the blade is not paralell with the table. It's not much but 0.5 mm as you can see in the pictures, the rear of the saw blade measures 62 mm to the groove in the table while the front part of the saw blade measuring 61.5 mm and the same groove. I do not know if this is within the tolerances for this saw, perhaps I am too picky, but i was anticipating better? How do i fix this? / Gooner
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 26, 2015 18:09:51 GMT -5
I think Joe had to do a bit of tweaking to his riving knife. I'm guessing the riving knife isn't seated properly also I presume you stay somewhere in Europe. If so I'd properly get in touch with your dealer. The saws are assembled by hand and it looks a bit of human error has crept in. No idea on tolerances but if something is niggling you best to get sorted
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Post by erik on Nov 27, 2015 10:34:34 GMT -5
You're not being too picky and with the riving knife out of plane with the blade it will make through cuts problematic; I found this out when making lap joints. The riving knife on my saw was out a little more, but within a minute I was able to get it aligned.
Its a shame to pay that amount of money to avoid these issues, but with a little motivation from frustration and a pair a vice grips, you should be able to get it aligned.
With that, if you can wait for your dealer to find a "safer" solution, why not give them a call?
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Post by gooner on Nov 28, 2015 6:40:50 GMT -5
Thanks for the answers. I've talked with my seller and he says that the riving knife has probably got a little slap during transportation. Regarding the blade, and that it is not mounted completely paralell with the table, he said that it is mounted in this way to get free cut. I have also checked how flat the table is, and mine is not completely flat. There is a small difference between the table on either side of the saw blade. What do you guys think, is this something to care about? How flat is your table at your Erika? / Gooner
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 28, 2015 14:40:15 GMT -5
Here is some photos of mine. The riving knife was maybe only just off a paper width, the riving knife is centered in line with the blade. Also if placing a long straight edge against the blade it reads 0 at the front and back of table. Also the distance of the groove on the right is just below 62mm at the front and back. I also checked the flatness of the table is spot and only low bits is in the groove area.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 29, 2015 3:59:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the answers. I've talked with my seller and he says that the riving knife has probably got a little slap during transportation. Regarding the blade, and that it is not mounted completely paralell with the table, he said that it is mounted in this way to get free cut. I have also checked how flat the table is, and mine is not completely flat. There is a small difference between the table on either side of the saw blade. View AttachmentWhat do you guys think, is this something to care about? How flat is your table at your Erika? / Gooner The things I'd check on your saw first is the blade on correct and seated correct also check the blade is flat. It should be but you never know. Then with a straight edge the length of the table and against the blade I'd check that it lands bang on 0 at the front and back of the table as it need to be accurate for sett the fence for rips etc. Also the riving knife at the bottom should be in line with the blade not to one side. Also check that it moves up and down easily. The table should be flat to give accurate cuts also to stop kick backs when cutting cause of material falling into a low bit. Don't let the dealer fopp you off
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Post by gooner on Nov 29, 2015 5:54:12 GMT -5
The things I'd check on your saw first is the blade on correct and seated correct also check the blade is flat. It should be but you never know. Then with a straight edge the length of the table and against the blade I'd check that it lands bang on 0 at the front and back of the table as it need to be accurate for sett the fence for rips etc. Also the riving knife at the bottom should be in line with the blade not to one side. Also check that it moves up and down easily. The table should be flat to give accurate cuts also to stop kick backs when cutting cause of material falling into a low bit. Don't let the dealer fopp you off I have attached the saw blade and clean the seat, nothing strange there. Checked the blade and it was flat. Unfortunately I did not have a sufficiently long straightedge at home at the moment, ut I checked with a 60cm straight edge. I first checked from the blade to the front, almost landed in the middle of the two zeros. Then I checked the blade to the back edge and it showed more than zero. I double-checked this with my incra fence and it showed the same results, it did not landed on zero either the front or rear edge. Then checked the riving knife and it is as I sad not aligned. When I put a straightedge against the right side of the blade is not against the cleaver at all. If I put the straightedge on the left side of the blade, I have to push the riving knife to the right to be against the blade. The table is not flat, but it is not very much. It is hard to take good pictures that show this, but if I put a piece of plywood in front and on the right side of the blade and the slide it to the left side of the blade gap, it will take the edge a little.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 29, 2015 8:14:26 GMT -5
It should be in line same as mine. Maybe just check it's screwed on correctly it does sound like something has had a bad knock. Any problems contact mafell
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Post by toomanytoys on Nov 29, 2015 9:11:45 GMT -5
It's not out of the realm of possibility with this many alignment issues that somewhere between the factory and your possession that the shipping box or pallet took a hard hit. From what I'm read its rare that one of these has this many corrections needed.
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Post by gooner on Nov 29, 2015 9:13:33 GMT -5
I allso begins to suspect that something happened during transport to me. Just my luck . I have contacted my dealer and explained the problems get to see what I get for answers. You shall have a big thanks for the help and all the images, greatly appreciated.
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Post by gooner on Dec 5, 2015 5:12:01 GMT -5
Now it has dissolved, my dealer will replace the saw with a new one. This time it is sent on an EU pallet, feels safer. I also took the opportunity to add a sliding table, fence guide extension and one forty-eight toothed saw blade. Now just have to wait and hope that this will not have any damages on the road. Has built a router table and one Extension table for my incra fence to the saw. So now I have a good mobile set-up, just a saw without damage missing By the way, it is a very nice and helpful forum you have here. / Gooner
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 5, 2015 7:16:48 GMT -5
Gooner let us know how it turns out. I just got my erika yesterday and believe me I had your post in mind. The first thing I did was make sure it didn't have the same issues. I'm going to say I got lucky. Show us some pics of your set up when it arrives
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 5, 2015 9:02:13 GMT -5
Dude! Imperial measurements! Was not expecting that! Very pleased to be using the true measurement system for building! (Not opening a can of worms but I love Imperial!)
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 5, 2015 10:05:22 GMT -5
Yup, I too appreciate the imperial scale on the saw. Unfortunately, the supporting rails are in metric.
John
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 5, 2015 13:15:59 GMT -5
I don't have those yet. We'll find a mod I'm sure
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