pawel
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Posts: 6
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Post by pawel on Oct 11, 2015 18:34:34 GMT -5
Hi everyone, I’m quite new to woodworking, setting up in my garden summerhouse at the weekends  I’m doing simple things at the moment, see the picture  but you have to start somewhere! I want to be able to do cabinets one day. I have the Festool TS 55, the new model REBQ-Plus and I’m not happy with it. I’ve been doing 45 degree mitre joint plywood boxes, alternating between 90 and 45 degree cuts and struggling to get repeatedly consistent angles. One box is reasonably OK and the next is not. I’ve read here and there of people having problems with the new model of TS55. Previous models do not seem to get complained about the same issues, but I’ve not got the chance to compare the two. It is entirely possible that my lack of experience is the problem and the saw would fine in hands of a seasoned woodworker! I’ll be interested to hear your opinion. From where I’m standing I think of getting rid of Festool and geting either Maffell MT55 or a table saw. The table saw would have to be portable enough to put away in storage after the day’s work. I can’t afford Erika, so looking at alternatives around £500 (Some or the saws I've looked at... Bosch GTS 10, DeWalt DW745 and the Jet saws from Axminster Tools in the UK). Having limited time to do my woodworking, I want to be able to make repeatable, consistent cuts reliably. I would be interested your recommendations or if you think I should carry on and persevere with Festool.
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Post by holmz on Oct 12, 2015 3:47:33 GMT -5
If you are working with sheets then the MT55 makes sense. If you are doing you cabin with real wood, then maybe a table saw is better.
The used Festool market is absurdly high, which is good for you. I have a MT55 and rate it highly. The tracks are better too, and the Bosch or Mafell tracks are the same and the saws fit on either one. I put the MT55 onto an MFT sometimes, but more often on a foldable table. I have heard all about the skill and technique required for using a TS55. It boggles my mind. I pick up the MT55 and go at it hard, with no special skill required other than setting down and clamping the rail and keeping my paws away from the blade. If you can sell the TS55 then maybe you consider that route?
Secondly. You may be better off with a rebate or dado than a 45 for strength. There is almost no way to press against it that does not want to try and slide the joint. And biscuits, dominos or dowels in at a 45 require more $, £, or złoty to make happen accurately and quickly.
There are also router bits which do a 45 degree angle with a jog in the joint... Again more $, but there are a few ways to get the results. Most of them are good, and depends on what you prefer... Or what you have.
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heiko
Junior Member

Posts: 78
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Post by heiko on Oct 12, 2015 9:09:44 GMT -5
Hi, in Germany they have a new version of the TS55(all from production date 2015) without these problem. There is a picture at the botton of the link that shows the second stop. You can lay the TS55 on the side than it should be better.The problem is still to get a accurate cut without tilting the saw/rail when you cut such small things. it will be better with a mitresaw or tablesaw or you get a MFT. Heiko Edit: Contact Festool to get the improved version. Edit2: The link
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pawel
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by pawel on Oct 12, 2015 18:05:59 GMT -5
Thank you for your thoughts holmz. I’m working with sheet goods, so MT55 would make sense. I think selling Festool for a good price won’t be a problem, I only got it a few months back. I may try sending it back to Festool, as I’ve been in touch with their support about my problems.
I expected Festool saw to work as you describe MT55, set your angles and go, but there is more to it. Support guys from Festool suggested I “may be putting too much pressure on the front handle than is necessary causing the tool to `tilt`”. To me it translates into - too much room for error.
Thanks for the tips about the 45 joints. I’ll have a go at a rebate joint next. A router and domino are on my shopping list, but can’t get it all at once!
I also have Festool midi extractor and I’m happy with it. Do you think I can carry on using it with the Mafell? I quite like the auto switch on it too. Presumably this would work the same way with Mafell?
Heiko, I think the version you mention is the same model I have. There maybe ways of using it to get good results, but I'm struggling to find them. I wish I could take out MT55 on a trial basis, but I don't think Mafell offers that. On the other hand if you buy either Festool or Mafell you can sell it used for good price if you don't like it!
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heiko
Junior Member

Posts: 78
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Post by heiko on Oct 13, 2015 1:09:40 GMT -5
I think you problem will be the same with MT55 because it's the wrong tool for you project.
Heiko
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Post by lincoln on Oct 13, 2015 4:35:42 GMT -5
Pawel, the midi vac will be fine with Mafell. Cutting long mitres can be very tricky, and requires sound technique. Keeping the rail flat, keeping the saw flat, not pushing the rail sideways whilst cutting, etc. The extra clamp slot on the Mafell rail, closer to the cut line, helps a lot. I always try to cut a mitre with two cuts - the first one to remove the bulk of the material, a couple of mm oversize, the second one to trim the first cut. I'd suggest practicing before selling and changing saws - even though I have got much better results mitring with my MT55 than I ever got with my TS55. Lincoln.
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Post by jonathan on Oct 13, 2015 5:10:16 GMT -5
for long mitre cuts I would advise you first make a straight 90° cut a mm oversize. Then cut the bevel.
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Post by holmz on Oct 13, 2015 7:21:51 GMT -5
... I also have Festool midi extractor and I’m happy with it. Do you think I can carry on using it with the Mafell? I quite like the auto switch on it too. Presumably this would work the same way with Mafell? Heiko, I think the version you mention is the same model I have. There maybe ways of using it to get good results, but I'm struggling to find them. I wish I could take out MT55 on a trial basis, but I don't think Mafell offers that. On the other hand if you buy either Festool or Mafell you can sell it used for good price if you don't like it! So where are you at? I bought my MT55 from Germany and shipped to Australia, so I was pleased it lived up to my expectations. It is problematic to return stuff. I think any vacuum would work, as when the hose comes off you know something changed pretty quickly. And it rooster tails the dust out the port like a waterski boat with no hose. Just plug it into the midi and go at it hard. The Dust deputy might be helpful as most of what comes out of the saw is more chips that fine sanding dust ?? I am a hobbiest too, so I do not believe you need any innate skills to use it. I got the last of the LO50 Mafell routers. Not sure if it fits on the Bosch OFA Kit 800 rail adapter, and I am not sure that would do a good job on making a slot or not. But the LO50 works good for a 1/4" (6-mm, 8-mm) router. I believe it fits on an Erika table, and I know that the bigger 1/2" LO65 does. Whether that is important or not I do not know. Everyone raves about Bosch and Triton routers too, but I do not know the good from the bad, and everyone says that they are good. However the LO50 is working well for me for freehand/template work. I am pretty sure if I get a 1/2" router it will be an LO50 so I can use it with an Anada jig... But that is not too certain. I should probably try doing a slot with the LO50 and the rail adapter. OFA Kit 800
Maybe 10-mm bit to get out the bulk, and then put in a 12-mm to dust off the sides and bottom ?? Would this work?? If the slot is close enough to an edge then there is a router fence - so that might work well too for a rebate or dado, but not for a 45 degree angle ??
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heiko
Junior Member

Posts: 78
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Post by heiko on Oct 13, 2015 7:50:26 GMT -5
Long mitres? The batch on the left side shows a lot of short mitres!
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Post by jalvis on Oct 19, 2015 22:06:38 GMT -5
You will struggle no matter which track saw you have. Long miters over 12" are extremely difficult without a sliding table saw. Especially if you are mitering boxes which require 4 perfect angles in all directs.
You will have to be patient and build a system that gives YOU the best results.
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Post by wolfhound on Oct 20, 2015 5:57:30 GMT -5
I have the Festool... but miters or not, personally I wouldn't hesitate in getting the Mafell over the Festool. I noticed some sparks in mine when I was doing a 45° cut. On the FOG a chap from Festool said it should be normal if there is no loss of power too.... well guess what, since yesterday evening I have sparks, smoke and loss of power... great for a 3-4 month old expensive machine.
I am beginner DIYer too and unfortunately I had not heard of Mafell when I got the TS55. Just about everywhere I read where someone has had the opportunity to work with both, the Mafell comes out better.
Another option may be to get a P1cc with the optional base ? I'll let the pros here comment on that idea :-)
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pawel
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by pawel on Oct 30, 2015 18:25:13 GMT -5
 So I did it! My MT55 arrived yesterday. I ordered it from Germany and it worked out more or less the same price as I paid for the TS55 in the UK. 493 euros for the saw, 160 rail and an extra blade was a very good deal I thought... See www.lefeld.de/mafell-tauchsaege-mt55cc-mafell-max-f160-2blaetter.html if anyone is interested. I do like the look of the mitre joints, so I’ll carry on trying and see what I can get on MT55. Mitres or not it should be easier to get results I want. I'll let you know how I get on, but even just looking at how the same functions are designed, Mafell looks like a more refined product. They are actually quite different, more than I thought they will be. Do I need to trim the splinter guard on the rail as with Festool? There isn't any mention of it in a manual.
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Post by lincoln on Oct 30, 2015 18:44:32 GMT -5
Nice one, Pawel, I'm sure you'll be very happy with the saw. Yes, trim the splinter strip. From memory there should be a small instruction sheet in the guide rail box that shows how trim the strip.
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Post by holmz on Oct 30, 2015 19:36:33 GMT -5
Just set the blade for a scoring cut (with the little lever on top) and then run it on a board.
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Post by toomanytoys on Oct 30, 2015 20:09:50 GMT -5
494 euros for the entire kit. About $544 in U.S. Dollars at the current exchange rate. That's pretty good!
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