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Post by Red on Sept 28, 2015 0:28:32 GMT -5
holmz I defer to your superior knowledge of technical terminology,as I said I'm only a joiner not an engineer,but to reiterate, my best guess is that the longer the piece then the greater the scope for a very small inaccuracy to be apparent,the wear which I have talked about is very small,i don't own a feeler gauge and my digital caliper has been kaput since the battery compartment door broke off a few months ago so I can't measure it but I can feel it,if you remember the debate on FOG some time ago about the snugness or otherwise of dogs for the MFT table the difference in size of a snug fitting dog compared with one described as being a sloppy fit with discernible 'wiggle' was only a few hundredths of a mm,i think the wear over time between the teeth is more than this,now if you factor in the likelihood that in use a user by chance may at one stage hold the machine to say the 'extreme' left within this wiggle room and perhaps to the right or somewhere in between when cutting the opposite joint then the possibility of inaccuracy is obvious and the greater the length the more scope for this to happen will occur.
Many thanks,
Red  |
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Post by skinee on Sept 28, 2015 5:59:18 GMT -5
Technical or non-technical, I really appreciate your thoughts on this matter, Skinee. You're describing a DD40P issue you've experienced -- and that's exactly what I was seeking when I start this thread.
Many thanks,
Red you are welcome Red. Aaron I of course always reference off the same edge and the guide is always clamped these are basic rules which are obvious, however once clamped if there is room for movement of the machine within that indexing system that's when inaccuracy can creep in. |
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Post by holmz on Sept 28, 2015 6:35:33 GMT -5
Technical or non-technical, I really appreciate your thoughts on this matter, Skinee. You're describing a DD40P issue you've experienced -- and that's exactly what I was seeking when I start this thread.
Many thanks, Red you are welcome Red. Aaron I of course always reference off the same edge and the guide is always clamped these are basic rules which are obvious, however once clamped if there is room for movement of the machine within that indexing system that's when inaccuracy can creep in. ^That^ is a good point. Many of the smaller dowels are fluted, and seem to deform easier. That may also help? Or if a massive oak dowel, then create some hammer-time opportunities? |
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taz
Junior Member
Posts: 67 
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Post by taz on Oct 12, 2015 15:54:16 GMT -5
I was at the D&M tool show yesterday and one of the German mafell reps was going through the dd40 and template with me. Another visitor their who had a few years of experience using the dd40 explained that the .1 .2 dowels are better as they allow you to dismantle work pieces without any breakout especially in veneered boards. I have experienced the break out even in melamine boards.
He also mentioned that using these bits they allow you to have a little play between joining components which may help with aligning as dowels can have different tolerances.
Hope this helps.
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Post by Red on Oct 13, 2015 13:57:08 GMT -5
I was at the D&M tool show yesterday and one of the German mafell reps was going through the dd40 and template with me. Another visitor their who had a few years of experience using the dd40 explained that the .1 .2 dowels are better as they allow you to dismantle work pieces without any breakout especially in veneered boards. I have experienced the break out even in melamine boards. He also mentioned that using these bits they allow you to have a little play between joining components which may help with aligning as dowels can have different tolerances. Hope this helps. |
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taz
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by taz on Oct 13, 2015 17:23:07 GMT -5
Red, yes the visitor had a few years of experience with the dd40.
When he mentioned the .1 and .2 drill bits I immediately thought of this post as I had read it before. So I was always going to share the advice I had got. I have learnt so much from muf posts by members here and fog members that I will if able to, pass something back. Whether the advice I got is correct or not, it sure does seem to be pretty much spot on.
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Post by yetihunter on Jan 8, 2018 16:30:05 GMT -5
I own a DD40 P and just love it! I primarily use the 8mm dowels. The "P" model is geared down relative to the "G", presumably to handle the larger diameter bits. For dowels I've been using Just Joinery (http://www.justjoinery.ca), great dowels at a fair price. Every time I try to get to the just joinery website, it redirects to their host/designer's page. Are they still in business? |
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