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Post by GhostFist on Aug 31, 2015 21:16:30 GMT -5
Still great to see honest opinions. some might have differing tolerances for what is acceptable
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 1, 2015 0:35:35 GMT -5
The 50mm hose from mafell fits inside the y conector
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Post by aas on Sept 1, 2015 1:33:01 GMT -5
Great thread and pictures!.. thanks! What CT are you using it with? I have a Midi, it states the max to be plugged in to the outlet is 2400w. On Mafell Germany site it says the Erika 85 is 2500w (although I noted on some reseller sites this has been changed to 2400w). I'm still undecided between the 70 or 85...
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Post by jonathan on Sept 1, 2015 1:50:38 GMT -5
Hey aas, I have a couple of CT26 AC. Well actually they're still Protool from before the Festool rebranding. Don't worry about the max load on the plug. It'll take however much your electrical circuit breakers will take.
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Post by jonathan on Sept 1, 2015 7:07:08 GMT -5
I'll try to shoot a short video tomorrow to illustrate the differences in collection between a single and 2 vacuums.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2015 10:26:15 GMT -5
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reno
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Post by reno on Sept 1, 2015 11:37:17 GMT -5
First , congratulations on the saw. It 's just so good and very stable and accurate . see here about dust , Heiko website : http : //holzwerkerblog.de/2014/01/09/erster-einsatz-der-neuen-erika-85/ How do you get images inserted ? Excuse my poor written English, but my Danish is perfect ; o) Reno,if you hit the reply button. there will be options for adding pictures. Thanks I find out to use the "Add Attachment" button
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Post by jonathan on Sept 1, 2015 11:47:46 GMT -5
Here is a very quick and dirty video. It shows 6 cuts in a piece of 18mm MDF and how much dust gets thrown out again at the riving knife and how much is left on the table top.
The vacuum set up is a single vacuum with a 1m long 50mm diameter hose that goes into the Y-splitter at the port in the back of the Erika. From that Y-splitter a smaller hose goes to the blade shroud to the top of the table.
I'll make a follow up video of the same cuts but with 2 vacuums attached and see if there's a difference.
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Post by aas on Sept 1, 2015 11:52:06 GMT -5
Here in France we have 16A at 230V, so 3680W, minus the 1200W of the CTL Midi, leaves 2480W - so yeah, give or take, OK for the 2500W of the Erika 85... but I wonder, as the UK runs 13A socket at 230V, so only 2990W - minus the dust extractor, (I guess about 1200W is pretty standard), that leaves 1790W for the tool - it sure doesn't seem like a lot left for the power tool! Hey aas, I have a couple of CT26 AC. Well actually they're still Protool from before the Festool rebranding. Don't worry about the max load on the plug. It'll take however much your electrical circuit breakers will take.
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Post by aas on Sept 1, 2015 11:56:19 GMT -5
I certainly couldn't use that in a customers house with that plume of dust coming up behind the riving knife... but your video is really making me want to pull forward my plans for an Erika!!! Here is a very quick and dirty video. It shows 6 cuts in a piece of 18mm MDF and how much dust gets thrown out again at the riving knife and how much is left on the table top.
I'll make a follow up video of the same cuts but with 2 vacuums attached and see if there's a difference.
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Post by jonathan on Sept 1, 2015 12:46:38 GMT -5
Ok, so here's the 2nd video. This shows the exact same 6 cuts in 18mm MDF. There's still a very faint plume of dust being thrown out behind the riving knife if you look closely. Overall though dust collection has improved dramatically.
The vacuum set up here was as follows: A first vacuum with a 1m long 36mm diameter hose that goes directly to the dust port at the back of the Erika. A 2nd vacuum with a 3.5m long 32mm diameter hose, in which I plugged the 1m long mafell hose goes to the blade guard at the top of the table.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 1, 2015 14:20:29 GMT -5
Jonathan the dust coming out the back of the riving knife points to a blockage. I've taken some pics of the area to check the hole upto the riving knife needs to be clear and the hole towards the blade should also be clear . I've did a test cut on a piece of 22mm pine with no dust extraction and the dust was miniscule blown out the top and most is blown out the back. The dust extraction blower on the saw works like the slamming door affect when you have the front and back door open which one door always slams from the through draft. A volume of air has to enter at the front, the blade causes the draft and the saw dust is push out the back and only comes out the top when the hole that looks upto the riving knife isn't clear . I will do some test cuts with mdf at the weekend
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 1, 2015 15:54:53 GMT -5
I seem to be having the same issue as Jonathan. Any cross cuts that i make that are relatively short i get excellent dust extraction. Once the wood goes into the riving knife i instantly start to get more dust thrown around. Could this be from my riving knife not being perfectly in line with the blade?
Another question i had is when using the mfa fence to make rips how do you know when the fence is parallel to the blade? Do you need to take measurements at the front and back of the blade to the fence? I just feel like there is a lot of slop in the mfa fence for rips. I did figure out how to use the little fence clamp and that helps tremendously but i still need to make sure I'm clamping it so that the fence is parallel to the blade.
Don't take these questions the wrong way because id recommend the saw 100% i just feel it has a very large learning curve when coming from a normal American jobsige saw.
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Post by jonathan on Sept 1, 2015 16:34:24 GMT -5
Thanks for taking the trouble wrightwoodwork. I've really looked at it from every nook and cranny i could find but there's no blockages. And I can't imagine how I'd already have a blockage somewhere after cutting 1 sheet of MDF. Maybe it's because i taped off the blade change hole in front of the arbor? I'll try the same test again tomorrow without the tape.
I'm thinking there's some differences in design between the 85 and 70. Maybe the smaller diameter blade has a smaller blade shroud and because of that less suction gets lost and that's why you get better perfomance?
In any case, I'll keep searching for a solution for sure though!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 1, 2015 16:40:50 GMT -5
here is a vid with no dust extraction granted its only a short piece I will do some rips with and without out dust extraction. Rip cut you do get a bit of dust escaping at the riving knife area especially when a tiny chip blocks the area to the riving knife. Not sure of the full reasons. For the fence being parralel with the blade what I do to check it is set the fence so it just touches the fence at the start then pull the saw towards myself. Then with a screwdriver in the adjustment screw turn it so it brings the back of the fence just touch the fence. Then I do a few pulls making sure the blade just runs along the fence. Then I turn the fence to 90 and back a few times giving it a check with the pull function. After it is set that's should mostly be it. Vibrations can knock things off and takes so little time to check and adjust if needed I always do when I set the saw up. Then for the rest of the rips its fine. The only thing obviously is to make sure I've tightened the thumb turns. Occasionally I forget and think oops. It does take less time doing than explaining
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