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Post by jm on Jul 24, 2015 23:01:00 GMT -5
Acquired this barn beam on Craigslist. The previous owner had two sides planed already, and the other two are still the original hand hewn finish, it's just about perfect for a mantel.  I've been trying to come up with the best solution to mount it, and I'm thinking just a simple french cleat would be best? Lagged into the brick and countersunk bolts, though I feel like I should be using something a little better than a standard 2x4? I'm mostly afraid of splitting the 2x4 along the grain and having this thing come crashing down.
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Post by jimbouk on Jul 25, 2015 1:47:27 GMT -5
I would use re bar or threaded rod and chem fix into both sides. Search mantle on here and theres a thread with it in I think. Either by garch or wright from memory. Hth.
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Post by Red on Jul 25, 2015 2:09:17 GMT -5
Acquired this barn beam on Craigslist. The previous owner had two sides planed already, and the other two are still the original hand hewn finish, it's just about perfect for a mantel. I've been trying to come up with the best solution to mount it, and I'm thinking just a simple french cleat would be best? Lagged into the brick and countersunk bolts, though I feel like I should be using something a little better than a standard 2x4? I'm mostly afraid of splitting the 2x4 along the grain and having this thing come crashing down. Hand hewn is right. It has nice grain, as well. It should make a nice mantle, indeed, jm.
I'm assuming that you have a brick veneer over standard masonry block. Is this correct?
If you're concerned about the sheer strength of standard dimensional softwood lumber, perhaps you could plane down some red oak strips and laminate your own board together.
Nice timber.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Jul 25, 2015 10:50:34 GMT -5
It looks pretty heavy Id want some steel in there. Pics of where it's going and what's behind it so we can make some good recommendations?
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ross
Junior Member

Posts: 52
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Post by ross on Jul 25, 2015 13:25:03 GMT -5
I'm thinking that if you have a flat side of this against a good flat wall and the wall is good, anchor screws should be fine. Resin anchors maybe better. Can you get some sort of lip under it? A lot depends on the wall it's going on to, ideally threaded bar all the way through the wall and plated behind will probably let you park a Harley on it.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jul 25, 2015 16:35:47 GMT -5
I've done the resin and rebar it worked pretty well from what I remember. That's a fair chunk of oak. I think I would get the blacksmith to make up a plate with dowels welded on then bolted to the wall with resin bolts and resin used on the beam in the corresponding dowel holes
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Post by rizzoa13 on Jul 26, 2015 6:51:45 GMT -5
I built a floating concrete bar and attached large 5/8" thick steel Welded L brackets to blocking behind the wall, you can jump on it. It required access from the wall behind but I'm sure you could figure something similar.    It it isn't supported by the wine fridge and has another support on the other side, plus rebar running through the top but i didnt want to muscle the kegerator out of the way to get a full shot.
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