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Post by holmz on Jan 6, 2016 13:29:09 GMT -5
reflector : The price for Germany you state is even included VAT,20%. Why don't you guys import from Germany? It is bizzare Charlie. The only hing I can think of is that they do not want to use a transformer or wire a 220v plug. In Au it is easier as the power out of the wall is 230/240v, so one does not need to find a dryer outlet as any outlet will do. As I am cheap, I got a bunch of Nuetrik plug ends, and a Duetchmark to Au converter (which had a Euro update),
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Post by Red on Jan 6, 2016 14:52:52 GMT -5
reflector : The price for Germany you state is even included VAT,20%. Why don't you guys import from Germany? As a builder who's avoided the US monopoly for years, I'm scratching my head and asking the exact same question...
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Post by toomanytoys on Jan 7, 2016 12:14:10 GMT -5
120vac.
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Post by holmz on Jan 7, 2016 12:24:31 GMT -5
I would bet money that your electric stove or drier has a pair of 120v lines bonded to make 220v. Additionally most of the problems with Kapex and Mirka sanders seem to be on 110v models, not to mention NAINA issues.
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Post by Red on Jan 7, 2016 14:04:15 GMT -5
I suppose that "Jersey Shore" could mean a lot of places, Jack...Regardless, if you're not too far south, I could drive down to see you some day and I could prove to you why imported 230/240 VAC power tools are superior and are, quite frankly, the way to go. Yeah, I retired from the electrical field -- which gives me certain advantages -- but I, too, have typical US utility service to work with, which sort of balances things out.
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Post by holmz on Jan 7, 2016 14:13:48 GMT -5
Red we can do the push pull can get him to 230v. Someone could make a 230v -> US 220v plug and send that to the shores of Jersey... That would be cheaper than a few tanks of petrol (gas).
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Post by reflector on Jan 7, 2016 14:41:59 GMT -5
reflector : The price for Germany you state is even included VAT,20%. Why don't you guys import from Germany? As a builder who's avoided the US monopoly for years, I'm scratching my head and asking the exact same question...Personally it dealing with a warranty for me. I'd probably reconsider this in the future, especially when the UK prices are still significantly lower as I did include VAT on that example. The UK versions also come in the 110V versions... Regardless we do technically have 220V@60Hz in the US given the "split phases"/two legs of power at the circuit breaker. My "other" problem is that I want to run on 120V/15A circuits using a standard plug and that isn't much of an issue with the UK versions, as I can't think of any Mafell tool that doesn't run on an universal motor.
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Post by Red on Jan 7, 2016 14:51:36 GMT -5
I don't mean to come off as an arse, Reflector, but I promise you that there's a safe "work-around" for everything. I retired from the electrical field before returning to traditional timber framing, so I have the empirical data to draw from in this regard.
We have both Asian and Euro power tools that are in use on the jobsite, so, even if I were an electrical novice, I could still tell you that it can be done.
PM me if you have any technical issues you would like to discuss...
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Post by holmz on Jan 7, 2016 15:03:14 GMT -5
[ ... ... also come in the 110V versions... ... 220V@60Hz in the US given the "split phases"... ... V = DC volts v = AC Volts (and in RMS) so 12V is usually a car and 110v is usually a house, but the big and little V/v denotes the how the current goes.
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Post by reflector on Jan 7, 2016 15:27:57 GMT -5
I don't mean to come off as an arse, Reflector, but I promise you that there's a safe "work-around" for everything. I retired from the electrical field before returning to traditional timber framing, so I have the empirical data to draw from in this regard.
We have both Asian and Euro power tools that are in use on the jobsite, so, even if I were an electrical novice, I could still tell you that it can be done.
PM me if you have any technical issues you would like to discuss... No offense taken. I'm aware that we have 220V "technically" in the US from the circuit breaker or at least on any circuit setup for 220V via the difference between the two hots on the split phases. I just wanted to mention that we still have the option of purchasing the 110V site versions from the UK.
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Post by toomanytoys on Jan 7, 2016 18:36:46 GMT -5
Ain't got no stink'n electric stove. And I use little v in my life coming from a career in the auto engineering community. Red, for some reason I thought you were on the west coast. You just want to see the two Shelbys  . J/k. Guys, I do understand why a 220v tool works better. But it's a matter of convenience. Do I want to run a 220v extension through my house from the garage to use a jigsaw, or out the backyard. I ended up getting a pancake compressor due to my wife's dismay of having an air hose running through the house. At the farm the house has no 220v sockets (up to 8 years ago it still had the 30a feed that was installed in 1937) but the irrigation pump house does. Hell, it has 220v3ph. How many hundreds of feet of extensions do I care to run. What about at my kids house, friends houses, etc. My Honda generator is 120v only, all I've needed. I'm not spending another $3k to have the flexibility I have now to set up over my 9ac to use a power tool. If everything I did was in my garage or in someone's driveway, I'd be fine with dealing with 220v. But I'm seeing a voltage hurdle here. Maybe self inflicted, but it's there. The UK option for 110v seems to be drying up through from what I've seen lately on the sites, possibly from control out of Germany.
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Post by Red on Jan 7, 2016 20:11:31 GMT -5
If 230/240 VAC sources are totally inconvenient for you, Jack, I see the attraction of power tools modified to operate at half the voltage...but that's about the only reason I would ever even consider a "half" tool.
Considering the simplicity and superior performance of the 230/240 VAC design, however, make mine imported. Not only do the euro tools have more [I'll be nice here] "guts" than their little cousins, but they require less physical material to operate at their full potential...and, I'm not sure about everyone else on the board, but I prefer rolling up a lightweight, watertight SOOW patch cord into a perfect little coil over a back-breaking 35-pound, 10-3, knotted-up (moisture prone) extension cord any time -- especially in the brutal mountain winters we have here.
For me, using 240 VAC sources is well worth the performance that our imported tools deliver -- and our wonderful imported KSS80Ec/370 has proven that to me over and over again...and, although I've become very accustomed to the rattle of our Cummins and CAT engines over the years, YES, I'd still like to see those Shelbys ...so the offer stands.
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Post by reflector on Jan 7, 2016 20:19:54 GMT -5
I don't think that anything short of the KSS80ec which has a lower motor rating for the US 110/120V version suffers from the loss of power given the motors are redesigned and wound for 110V operation for the same output. They'll pull double the amperage and that's it. With the KSS80ec it seems Mafell intended that the US version would pull no more than 15 amps at 120 volts. That is: Unless someone with the US KSS80ec wants to tell me it actually is wired with a NEMA 5-20 plug.
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Post by holmz on Jan 8, 2016 0:18:00 GMT -5
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Post by Red on Jan 8, 2016 0:31:01 GMT -5
Another Shelby fan, aye?
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