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Post by jonathan on Sept 17, 2013 13:33:03 GMT -5
I tested dogs attached to the rail slots. I didn't have a 100% success. It might be my fault, I will try again. Could you describe the problem a bit? Maybe we can find a solution.
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Post by fidelfs on Sept 18, 2013 21:47:26 GMT -5
Ok. I am testing new Qwas dogs that fit the Mafell.
I inserted the dogs into the rail slot. I choose 2 holes close to the cut my Festool rail was.
I grabbed a piece of plywood, not square by any means. I made the first cut, without butting the wood to any dogs. This cut site is numbered "1". I butted side "1" to normal Qwas dogs, perpendicular to the rail. I made the cut. I numbered this side "2". I turned counter clockwise and have the side "2" butted to the dogs at the top perpendicular to the rail. Made the cut to the next side and numbered "3". Turned counter clockwise again, side 3 butt against the top dogs. and made the final cut and numbered side "4".
I tested squareness with the woodpecker 1281, and I noticed not all the sides were square. I started over and at the end, again the same result. I measured one side at both ends . One end was 3 or 4 millimeters smaller than the other. I marked with a pencil to make a line that were perpendicular so see it against the rail. I placed the wood under the rail and I could see clearly the rail was not perpendicular to the top dogs.
I removed the rail dogs and I placed 2 Qwas dogs in the same holes were the Qwas rail dogs were. I butted the rail to those Qwas dogs and placed the wood under the rail and the rail was perpendicular and went above the pencil lane (100%).
I have one or two theories why this happen. One the slot under the rail don't run parallel to the side of the rail, I don't know the answer of this yet. The other theory is that one of the screws for the rail dog was different size. It shouldn't matter because it is the t-bolt the one that touches the inside of the rail slot. So I don't think this is a real problem. Well the other thing was that I was working outside and the Houston humidity and heat was making a number on my head. I will try again, hopefully we will have cooler weather, that is what the news channel says. The cool weather is coming to Houston we were at 97 degrees (36 celcius) this weekend and we will have cooler weather 92 degrees (33 celcius). That is cooler temperature Texas style.
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 18, 2013 23:19:55 GMT -5
I'm from Canada....
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Post by fidelfs on Sept 20, 2013 15:59:28 GMT -5
Today is cooler, 82.9 (28 celcius). It is 100% humidity. you sweat just at looking outside.
Anyways, I received my new Mafell rail the 110 mm , the Kreg and the thumb nuts. I followed the steps to do it on my MFT 1080 and it worked. The only minor issue is when I lift the rail the thumb nut hits the black plastic lever and it doesn't go all the way back. So stays 90 degrees vertical, so the most minimal movement makes the rail to fell.
I am thinking to cut the T nut or drill a hole in the plastic lever to allow the the thumb nut to get inside the lever.
Besides that it even moves side to side a lot less that with the Festool rail.
Fidel
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Post by jonathan on Sept 20, 2013 16:03:58 GMT -5
Do you mean the T-bolt, instead of the nut? If so, you can simply saw the excess off the T-bolt with a metal hacksaw.
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Post by woodie on Sept 20, 2013 16:37:48 GMT -5
I forgot to mention I had to shorten the T-bolt by 3/8" or so. I used a hacksaw then touched the end up on a belt sander. I usually thread a nut on before cutting just to help recover any damaged threads.
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Post by mattdh on Sept 22, 2013 15:23:37 GMT -5
this is what i had in mind for the mft and mafell rails before the kreg t-bolts were posted Attachments:
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Post by woodie on Sept 22, 2013 22:59:06 GMT -5
Very cool! Any ideas on cost to make these?
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Post by fidelfs on Sept 23, 2013 10:54:35 GMT -5
Do you mean the T-bolt, instead of the nut? If so, you can simply saw the excess off the T-bolt with a metal hacksaw. Yes , I meant the T-bolt. I guess I was going "nuts" (pun intended).
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Post by mattdh on Sept 25, 2013 21:07:46 GMT -5
woodie- i was hoping to get them for about $15 a piece. was gonna have a hundred of them made(to get the cost down) and sell them in set of 2 for $30. but not alot of interest. and i dont want to have 49 sets sitting around for 10 years.
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 25, 2013 21:13:48 GMT -5
we're a small niche for now
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Post by jalvis on Sept 26, 2013 1:40:13 GMT -5
Your best option would be to Ebay and ship internationally.
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sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by sgtrjp on Feb 27, 2014 18:34:34 GMT -5
Check this out: Notice the retaining clip that holds the saw on the track. If that could be done for the mt55, I might buy one immediately.
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Post by jonathan on Feb 27, 2014 19:07:00 GMT -5
I really like this guy's holding bracket! Others I've seen were way bulkier and less elegant.
I've actually been seriously looking into something like this a while ago for my MT55cc, but found a few issues that led me to postpone the project.
One of the issues I found is that the Mafell rails are borderline too flexible to lift the saw. A solution is to reinforce the rail by inserting 1 or more joining elements. The 2nd problem is that the front of the MT55cc's baseplate has kind of weird shapes. I found it hard to come up with some kind of arching bracket that was foolproof enough to hold the saw securely in place.
But I am still curious to find out what others have created. Maybe some of the other members has had some better ideas than what I managed to up with.
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sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by sgtrjp on Mar 3, 2014 10:52:58 GMT -5
I don't have the saw, but I'm looking at the best pictures I can find. How does the festool rail slot plug fasten? Would it be substantial enough to shave the top off so a bar could slide in? Also, it seems there is another plug farther back on the same side of the bottom plate, could that be used? Actually, the bracket used on the festool gear doesn't seem that long. If the is there enough space even before that other "plug"?
Could someone post some close ups of the front, bottom and side of the saw?
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