sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65 
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Post by sgtrjp on Sept 6, 2013 6:08:38 GMT -5
I hate to compare the kss300 to the TS55R, as I understand the 300 is in a class by itself. But, I think that when considering my needs, it comes down to these 2. I really like the 300, but at that price, I've got to love it. The thing that I'm still wondering about is dust collection and tear-out on the off-cut side. If I use a 36mm with my CT26, will the dust extraction be anywhere close to the TS55 or MT55? How is the off-cut side tear-out without a splinter guard on that side? Will a sharp blade and the high speed of the 300 make up for the lack of splinter guard?
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Post by woodie on Sept 6, 2013 8:49:18 GMT -5
I hate to compare the kss300 to the TS55R, as I understand the 300 is in a class by itself. But, I think that when considering my needs, it comes down to these 2. I really like the 300, but at that price, I've got to love it. The thing that I'm still wondering about is dust collection and tear-out on the off-cut side. If I use a 36mm with my CT26, will the dust extraction be anywhere close to the TS55 or MT55? How is the off-cut side tear-out without a splinter guard on that side? Will a sharp blade and the high speed of the 300 make up for the lack of splinter guard? I don't have a KSS300 or TS55R so I can't comment directly on these. However, I have a KSS80Ec and have been comparing it to my TS75 over the last month or so. The KSS80 has a similar "open" blade housing vs. the closed blade housing on the TS75/55. I'm really impressed with the dust collection on the Mafell. Fine dust is captured equally as well, but there is a slight difference with larger chips. I'd say for comparison the difference in large chip collection is 10% or less. Now I haven't gotten the kitchen scale out to measure weights of material left behind, I'm just basing this on the visual difference. As for tear out on the off-cut side (without the additional splinter guard)... First I have to admit, I've never used the off cut splinter guard for my TS75. After installing Festool's 52 tooth blade I got little to no tear out so I just haven't bothered with it. I have the 56 tooth blade for my KSS80 and the results are the same. I would guess the KSS300 would easily do as well, given the 40 tooth blade that comes with it. |
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 6, 2013 9:39:02 GMT -5
Dust collection is surprisingly good on the 300, not as good as the mt55 but decent enough that ive used it extensively in homes with only a quick vacuum at the end. The 300 does not have a speed control like the 55 or other saws, nor does it have the scoring ability that the 55 does but the cut quality is decent with the proper blade. IMO the 300 is not a replacement for either the ts55 or the mt55, these saws have more ability in the way of fine tuning the quality of cut when it's important to do so. is the 300 worth the money? IMO abso-freaking-lutely. there's a lot of jobs that you can do easily with amazing results on this little machine that people normally bring out bigger guns for. It's value comes in its ability for such a small package and ease of set up. The ultimate little portable machine.
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Post by 7 on Sept 7, 2013 0:18:30 GMT -5
I hate to compare the kss300 to the TS55R, as I understand the 300 is in a class by itself. But, I think that when considering my needs, it comes down to these 2. I really like the 300, but at that price, I've got to love it. The thing that I'm still wondering about is dust collection and tear-out on the off-cut side. If I use a 36mm with my CT26, will the dust extraction be anywhere close to the TS55 or MT55? How is the off-cut side tear-out without a splinter guard on that side? Will a sharp blade and the high speed of the 300 make up for the lack of splinter guard? First off I agree with both ghostfist and woodie. In a way the KSS 300 is a confusing tool. It is tempting to compare it to the TS55 & MT55 because it slides on a track just like they do. I would compare it more to a multi master in that it is a saw that once you have it the uses come to mind. You can use it like a track saw for sure. It will even ride the F-rails as long as you don't need to bevel the saw. But on the flip side you would never think of using a track saw for installing wood flooring but the KSS is the absolute perfect tool for wood flooring. You would never case a door with a track saw etc etc. The list is quite long of the work you would not use a track saw for but would use the KSS for and vise versa. A miter saw is still better for casing doors unless you only have a few doors. I think my main point is the same as ghostfists. Portability. It's fun (honestly) to only take 1 box and a small vac onto a job and have the best suited tool for the job in situations like wood flooring or a deck with a border. The vacuum and systainer become your work table. No moving a miter saw and table saw with their stands from one side of a floor to the other so you can finish. The KSS sits at the end of the room right where the cuts need to be made. After years of the regular setup it almost feels like you cheated as you carry one load out to the truck at the end of the day and drive away. On the other hand if I need to wrap a bunch of columns in finish work I strongly prefer the smooth plunge action of a regular track saw. For trimming out several rooms, or a whole house, or crown moulding I strongly prefer a miter saw with a good stand and it's worth the extra set up. Biggest 2 strengths- Portability and versatility. It can do most everything fairly well. Sorry, it's hard to be brief when I'm so stoked about a tool. It's a really cool saw. |
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 7, 2013 0:46:56 GMT -5
I have to say it is a fun tool because you can use it efficiently for so much. It kinda gets me on this kick of using as few tools as possible just to see how it can get done.
another thing it's great for is trenching cuts, half laps, overlaps, dados and that sort of thing if you need a quick and dirty one
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 7, 2013 6:52:12 GMT -5
7 that's a good description of the kss300 a mitre station set up to do most of the work and the kss300 in the room with u to save going back to do do the odd cuts like cutting your facings legs to length after checking the mitres. As ghostfish says u can do trenching with them in fact I prefer them for doing
Y trench cuts I find easier to set up and more constant cut.
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sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by sgtrjp on Sept 8, 2013 22:00:12 GMT -5
I'm very close to buying one, but being a hobbyist, it's hard to swallow the cost. It's nearly twice the cost in the US as the UK and we only get 1/3 the warrantee.
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 9, 2013 11:24:48 GMT -5
What do you plan on making with this saw?
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sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by sgtrjp on Sept 9, 2013 12:44:38 GMT -5
That's hard to pin down. Flooring installs(laminate and hardwood), breaking down sheet goods, and general light carpentry. I'm in the middle of a garage build and will finally have a decent space for a shop. The problem is, this is mostly for personal use, but will also be used for maintaining a rental unit. The first use will either be installing flooring in a couple of our bedrooms or putting on a porch roof on the rental unit. I know it's pushing the saw for 2x's, but there won't be a lot of that.
I had planned on getting a TS55R but when I couldn't get that, I stumbled on the 300. I think it's a better fit than the MT55 because of the shadow cut capability and portability, I'm just having a hard time with the cost. I was excited to see jonathan's posts about using the f tracks on the MFT. I already planned on buying a 1.1M guide to do just that. I'm really close to pulling the trigger on the 300 and I'll probably end up with the MT55 ultimately, but definitely not this year. I do understand the bevel limatations with the 300 on f tracks.
Actually, as frustrating as it's been that the TS55 was recalled, I would never have found this little gem if it hadn't been. It's just that even though the 300 will be much more convenient for most of what I need it for, it costs a good bit more than the TS55. As for cutting capacity, I got kinda carried away during the festool recon sale and picked up a TS75 along with my CT26, Ti15, and RO150. It will be good when I need it, but I don't want it for my primary saw. So, I'm covered for cutting depth, but I could see me next year selling off my TS75 and picking up a MT55. Certainly with jonathans work with MFT and parallel guides.
With my new workshop, I'm very interested in controlling sawdust. I've already got a couple of circ saws, a table saw, and miter saw. All of these saws have some sort of dust collection but they aren't really effective. I'm also interested in the what the combination of MFT type table and track saw will add to my shop.
Between this site and FOG, I'm getting some great ideas, but my wallet is taking a huge hit.
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 9, 2013 14:06:26 GMT -5
Understood, the draw to high end tools can hurt the bank for sure. I justify my purchases because they end up making me money. I see them less as a purchase and as an investment into my business. The 300 is completely suited for the jobs you've described and you will continue to find uses for it, but, if it doesn't end up with a lot of use it turns out to be a wasted investment. Will you still need this saw after your shop is set up and you acquire another 55 track saw? Will you be doing more flooring general maintenance in the future?
these are the questions you should be asking yourself before you invest. You do own a miter saw already and a table saw so you can still do the jobs you need.
The 300 earns it's crown if you're doing a lot of these types of jobs. It's a portable tool meant to be taken to the jobsite, not so much a shop tool but still comes in handy there.
I'm not trying to turn you away from your purchase just make sure you're making the right purchase. the money for that might be better invested in something else.
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Post by mattdh on Sept 9, 2013 16:06:47 GMT -5
would this be big enough for doing decks? alot of 2 x material. or would i want the ks400?
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 9, 2013 16:16:44 GMT -5
The 400 may be more suitable to alot of deck building. 300 can do it but it's better suited to sheet goods.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 10, 2013 14:11:39 GMT -5
yeah the 400 would be the better choice
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Post by 7 on Sept 10, 2013 20:55:22 GMT -5
I agree with both of the above that the 400 would be better for decks.
In my earlier posts I listed decks as one of the ideal jobs for the 300 which is misleading. I use a worm drive standard circular saw for all the framing, beam cutting, posts, stair stringers etc and use the KSS for the surface and facia boards. Trex and similar synthetic decking is popular around here and the board are only 1" thick and the facia is only 3/4". The 400 would be slightly better for even this portion because it is a stretch on the length of cut for the facia boards which are 11 1/4" wide (right at the limit of the cut capacity of the 300 on the attached mini rail)
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 15, 2013 21:50:11 GMT -5
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