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Post by 7 on Mar 5, 2015 23:59:46 GMT -5
1/32 over 8 in is 0.22 degree. IT IS WAY TO MUCH, not useful for furniture, especially for joints. It can go for construction only... My point exactly. We aren't a bunch of clowns trying not to blame the saw. If it's the saw that is out of square then obviously get a new one and it's rightfully upsetting to pay the premium price and not get a premium product that is at least accurate. As a non fan boy I have a few problems with the original post from the guy that started this thread though 1- I find it interesting that it's his first post on the forum and that he hasn't been back in several days to try to actually resolve the issue. 2- To make an accurate diagnosis we need a lot of information that's not provided. 3- There are odd psychological assumptions- we wouldn't admit a tool was sub par or faulty because we need to justify our intelligence in paying a high price. I think i'd be more likely to complain out loud if an expensive tool didn't function to my high expectations than something I skrimped on. I realize the "fan boy" concept exists but most on this forum have been pretty specific about tool problems when we have had them...(MrToolJunkie's jigsaw, Wright woodworks KSS 400 cordless, jasonkehl KSS80 cold weather problem etc etc) |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 6, 2015 5:46:32 GMT -5
There seems to be a big fascination in cutting 100% square, with the magic elusive 0000000000000000000000 off square. One of the first things I leaned as an apprentice was how to check my square. Which I'm sure all tradesmen here will know so I'm not going to explain. No using the same method for the 400 I can make a cut on 400mm strip of ply or any other sheet material then when I flip it over or gold it over like a piece of paper and making sure the edge is perfectly in line with the edge that the stops where against and the cut edge is lined up with the cut edge and perfectly flush and I can not feel any descripeny then it is square. If the piece don't line up along the cut edge then it isn't square. Simple as that. Also does the cut fit where it is to go. Then simply make it fit. When I got my 770 track I could get the saw on the track. The track had being damaged in the post. Now I could of sent it back what I actually did was get a pair of mole grip and lock it on the track and push it in the damaged area and straighten it out. It was only the corner that had being bent and the rest was fine. Once I had twisted the track back to where it should be then it has being fine
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dob
New Member
Posts: 18 
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Post by dob on Mar 6, 2015 9:07:36 GMT -5
Years ago, in HomeDepot I got all new Bosch corded saw for $80, Bosch blade included. It has larger blade than cordless 36V. It could be no big problem to make it fit onto any rail and use as a track saw. Now I am looking at Mafell kss400/36V, and it is around $3000 CD, and corded around $1500 CD. WHY  ? Because I need accuracy which my work style ask for, and it way above accuracy of an Bosch circular saw (not modified). And it is not only 90 degree in question, but miter also, then comes universality and confidence in the saw too, then how the saw hold its quality over time, ... You can find on many table saw digital reading for the fence set, laser trackers, ... and it is all way below the cost of mafell saw kss400. I am still spending time writing this because I believe in many people who say Mafell is the best. This term "the best" is so vague and has no meaning. I am trying to figure out what is it that makes it "the best". I found one point, and it is the attached rail, which is very useful. This saw has sliding guide with "play in it". This says a lot about the saw. That guide can be made easy with ZERO play, say with two Ball-Bearing spring loaded moving against the fence. There are and many other solutions. But Mafell opted for the least expensive way, even not giving option to buy a better guide. Now the matter is that users of the wood saw do not need such zero-play accuracy. BUT there is a big question behind it. What is it that makes it soooo special? 1. ... 2. ... 3. ... 4. ... ... I am not after a saw that someone across the street knows I work with a saw $3000 and he with a saw $40, so my work is better, I am more smart, I deserve his respect, .... |
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Post by Michael in NJ on Mar 17, 2019 7:45:10 GMT -5
I got the KSS 40 cordless version. Mine was also out of square. When putting the track itself on a perfect straight level and using a machinist square on the opposite red side it shows dead perfect, but cuts are off. Upon inspection I noticed that it is the metal guide on the track that is not perfectly parallel with red edge. I don't see any adjustments possible for that so I had to beef up the knob using electric tape until I was getting square cuts.
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mattj
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by mattj on Mar 20, 2019 11:02:58 GMT -5
Michael,
If I'm understanding correctly, it sounds like you're talking about the red anti splinter strip on the KSS rail. That strip is replaceable, and you can probably remove and reposition it. You don't have to align it perfectly with the rail, just let it overhang enough so that the blade will cut through and trim it for a perfect zero clearance guide to the cut line (with use you'll find that it gets beat up a bit, you learn to compensate, then eventually replace it. My first one lasted two years but was real bad toward the end).
If the adhesive doesn't want to re-stick after you remove it you may need to get a replacement. Bummer that it wasn't perfect out of the box, but its an easy fix. If you bought from Timberwolf they might even send one for free. You want part number 204371.
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