dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Feb 21, 2015 18:06:39 GMT -5
36V became way too hard to get for me. Canadian dollar is in trouble and getting worst. $3000cd for 36V = ugh. $1500cd for 110V has a chance that i get approved by my wife.
i have Bosch 36V corcular saw.
what is it that made you to go with 110 V and not 36V ??
i need it for furniture, cabinets, a table, cpuntertop, a house construction,...
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Post by checkmax on Sept 26, 2015 12:07:02 GMT -5
Are these two saws equivalent in performance? Any idea how many cuts or duration of usage is possible with 36V before performance suffers?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 26, 2015 14:33:21 GMT -5
Both are equal in performance I can't tell you the number of cuts. Yet doing only cuts of 4*2 and 5 wide at once I was able to spend a whole morning only cutting and removing off the pile then the afternoon building the studs up. Sorry can't give number of cuts its only rips of 50 mm that eat the batteries if remember correctly the 32 blade gave me 18m the 24 gave gave 28m never tested the thin kerf blade performance I guess not car off 35m
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Post by holmz on Sept 26, 2015 17:27:05 GMT -5
Or C... "none or the above"?
It may be cheaper to go 220/230v, and/or cheaper in the long run. a) The tool is cheaper in 230v imported. b) Subsequent tools are cheaper because they can be the original 230v.
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Post by checkmax on Sept 26, 2015 19:04:36 GMT -5
Or C none or the above? it may be chwaper to go 220/230v, or chwper in the long run. a) The tool is cheaper in 230v impoted b) Subsequent tools are cheaper because they can be 230v. ? Huh?
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Post by holmz on Sept 26, 2015 19:16:54 GMT -5
The thread title was 36V versus 110v. while 230v was not on the list, I consider it a viabale option.
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Post by checkmax on Sept 27, 2015 0:52:41 GMT -5
Both are equal in performance I can't tell you the number of cuts. Yet doing only cuts of 4*2 and 5 wide at once I was able to spend a whole morning only cutting and removing off the pile then the afternoon building the studs up. Sorry can't give number of cuts its only rips of 50 mm that eat the batteries if remember correctly the 32 blade gave me 18m the 24 gave gave 28m never tested the thin kerf blade performance I guess not car off 35m Thanks. I'm assuming 28m is 28 min of cutting before the battery gave out? Setting aside portability (jobsite v. workshop), if you had 5o choose one?
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Post by checkmax on Sept 27, 2015 0:55:04 GMT -5
The thread title was 36V versus 110v. while 230v was not on the list, I consider it a viabale option. I believe the thread was directed to those of us who live in 110V countries and are deciding between domestic 110V models or imported 36V models for roughly the same price - portability v. performance. Do you own a Kss400?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 27, 2015 3:16:26 GMT -5
Both are equal in performance I can't tell you the number of cuts. Yet doing only cuts of 4*2 and 5 wide at once I was able to spend a whole morning only cutting and removing off the pile then the afternoon building the studs up. Sorry can't give number of cuts its only rips of 50 mm that eat the batteries if remember correctly the 32 blade gave me 18m the 24 gave gave 28m never tested the thin kerf blade performance I guess not car off 35m Thanks. I'm assuming 28m is 28 min of cutting before the battery gave out? Setting aside portability (jobsite v. workshop), if you had 5o choose one? 28meters ripping approx maybe can get more. If your main.cut is ripping then you really needed corded. The saw will rip its just that only ripping will eat the batteries up. Not a problem if you have a source to charge the batteries on site. Also you do know the charger is 240 I don't know if that matter
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 27, 2015 3:27:33 GMT -5
If I had to choose one it really would come down to weather there is power or not. If no power cordless saves the hassle with generators. If power then the corded version. At the moment I'm using the corded version as I have version as I have power on the job. If was working mainly up on roof doing cross cuts then the cordless version
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Post by checkmax on Sept 27, 2015 4:26:11 GMT -5
If I had to choose one it really would come down to weather there is power or not. If no power cordless saves the hassle with generators. If power then the corded version. At the moment I'm using the corded version as I have version as I have power on the job. If was working mainly up on roof doing cross cuts then the cordless version That's helpful. How is the hand?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 27, 2015 5:37:43 GMT -5
The hand is good. In fact you can hardly tell now. Just the occasional tingling
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Post by holmz on Sept 27, 2015 6:51:28 GMT -5
The thread title was 36V versus 110v. while 230v was not on the list, I consider it a viabale option. I believe the thread was directed to those of us who live in 110V countries and are deciding between domestic 110V models or imported 36V models for roughly the same price - portability v. performance. Do you own a Kss400? In answer to your question...No However I own a bunch of stuff with 230v and understand how to get 220v into a tool, and I have spent some time in the US. The easiest option is Timberwolf's transformer if you are in the US (or one of the other 5 countries). Clearly if being portable is the goal, then both 110v, or 230v are then about the same. The 3 advantages I see in 230v are: - Some of the tools are only available in 230v. - Many are cheaper in 230v. - Some have less issues in 230v.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 27, 2015 9:59:39 GMT -5
Here is a quick vid I've done of cutting an off cut of beach worktop. It let's you see how it copes
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 27, 2015 14:34:06 GMT -5
Another way of getting 220v is clicking a breaker into a houses electrical panel. If your at all comfortable with working inside a panel it's very easy to do. I routinely remove a 30amp 2-pole breaker and wire it up with an extension cord i made for the Erika. You need to know what you are doing inside an electrical panel but it IS another option.
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