ramin
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by ramin on Mar 20, 2020 17:39:29 GMT -5
I have one more question, how do you adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade? I'm experimenting to see how accurate I can get it. And what the quickest/best way is to do this.
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Post by aas on Mar 21, 2020 1:44:17 GMT -5
Undo the four bolts holding the base to the extension leaf, adjust to desired position, re-tighten.
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ramin
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by ramin on Mar 21, 2020 5:41:49 GMT -5
Undo the four bolts holding the base to the extension leaf, adjust to desired position, re-tighten. I mean, do you move the fence so that it just touches the blade on both sides? do you align in to the dovetails of the table? do you use a dial indicator?
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Post by aas on Mar 22, 2020 8:24:20 GMT -5
I removed the blade guard and touched the blade both sides, clamped down the rip fence to stop it moving and re-tightened the bolts.
I've read somewhere that the Erika is normally set up with Toe-in or Toe-out, can't remember which, but I've gone for parallel - it's working out for me.
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Post by aas on Mar 24, 2020 14:25:26 GMT -5
I mean, do you move the fence so that it just touches the blade on both sides? do you align in to the dovetails of the table? do you use a dial indicator? I had another look at this today, I've re-adjusted the Incra so it's not perfectly parallel, it's giving cleaner cuts in plywood set up like this. I'll have to see if it works out ripping solid timber.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 25, 2020 21:28:46 GMT -5
Undo the four bolts holding the base to the extension leaf, adjust to desired position, re-tighten. I mean, do you move the fence so that it just touches the blade on both sides? do you align in to the dovetails of the table? do you use a dial indicator? I adjust all of my fences so the blade is toe-in, approximately 0.25mm over the length of the blade. Just enough so the teeth aren’t touching the material on the back side.
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Post by aas on Mar 26, 2020 2:30:12 GMT -5
I adjust all of my fences so the blade is toe-in, approximately 0.25mm over the length of the blade. Just enough so the teeth aren’t touching the material on the back side. Genuine question... the MFA can be used for ripping to the left or the right of the blade - do you know how Mafell has this set up?.. toe-in or parallel?
Maybe this is why the front dovetail rail is bent, so it turns the MFA away from the blade! /sarcasm :-)
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 26, 2020 8:26:51 GMT -5
I adjust all of my fences so the blade is toe-in, approximately 0.25mm over the length of the blade. Just enough so the teeth aren’t touching the material on the back side. Genuine question... the MFA can be used for ripping to the left or the right of the blade - do you know how Mafell has this set up?.. toe-in or parallel?
Maybe this is why the front dovetail rail is bent, so it turns the MFA away from the blade! /sarcasm :-)
Going from memory of the training session I attended two years ago, I believe that everything on the Erika is square and parallel, with the exception of how the blade is mounted in the rails, which has the leading teeth toed-in to the left by 0.2mm. The intention is that, when cross-cutting or ripping on the left side of the table, the material only interacts with the downward cutting teeth, with a 02.mm space between the material and the teeth coming up on the back side. For ripping on the right side, I've had excellent results using the parallel rip fence and shimming it to counteract the toe-in. I'm sure this can be achieved with a MFA, probably just a matter of putting a few pieces of tape on the back side of the fence and adjusting the fence position depending on which side of the table you're working on.....
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