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Post by aas on Jan 28, 2020 16:34:24 GMT -5
As for the Erika, if I were to take a swing at this I'd use 1m table extensions in the front and rear, slide an "empty" table leaf tight to the saw on the right, and then have the LS Positioner mounted to a second table leaf that would be mounted to the outside of the first leaf. My thought process is, sliding the table leaves tight to each out would allow for a fast and repeatable indexing method. Did you ever do this Tom?
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Post by aas on Feb 3, 2020 15:55:26 GMT -5
Well, I fitted the Incra LS positioner to my Erika, pretty similar to the first post in this thread - drilled the 'router' panel/leaf - except I offset mine a little so it is towards the front of the saw a bit more. Using my trusty old Elu aluminium guide fence on the LS, rip width up to 420mm in standard compact setup, and can go up to 620mm moving out the Mafell support bars, I don't need more than this. It's very stable and accurate.
A couple more interesting add-ons I'm working on, I'll report back once done.
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Post by lincoln on Feb 3, 2020 18:11:13 GMT -5
Some pics would be great🙂
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Feb 3, 2020 19:26:40 GMT -5
Yes please.
John
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Post by aas on Feb 3, 2020 19:50:56 GMT -5
I'll do what I can!
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ramin
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by ramin on Feb 4, 2020 6:25:22 GMT -5
I also have an incra ls and when my erika extension table arrives I'm planning on doing this as well. I have 2 questions for you though.
1) How do you square the fence? Do you drill the hole slightly bigger on the extension table so you can shift the positioner untill it's square?
2) The good thing about the Erika fence is that you can use the dovetail clamping piece to have it fixed at 2 points to the table. This give me really accurate cuts with zero deflection. How is the deflection when you use the incra fence? I was thinking of maybe trying to mod the fence so I can attach the clamping piece to it as well. I think that would be super stable for rip cuts.
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Post by aas on Feb 4, 2020 9:54:09 GMT -5
Hi, I used the Incra T-track allen bolts which are 1/4" (6.35mm) - I used a 6.5mm drill, so we could say there is a tiny bit of room for movement. I marked accurately and drilled accurately! My initial idea was to use the Mafell 1m guide 038392 to which I could add the dovetail clamping pieces. I tried it as I have all the pieces - it works, very well... but it doesn't flex at all without - the Incra is super solid, so I decided on my old Elu guide fence that I really like. Of course, I have the option to use the Mafell guide if I want to later on.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Feb 4, 2020 10:21:53 GMT -5
As for the Erika, if I were to take a swing at this I'd use 1m table extensions in the front and rear, slide an "empty" table leaf tight to the saw on the right, and then have the LS Positioner mounted to a second table leaf that would be mounted to the outside of the first leaf. My thought process is, sliding the table leaves tight to each out would allow for a fast and repeatable indexing method. Did you ever do this Tom? Apologies for the delayed response, "busy-busy!". I have not gotten around to this project. At this point I'm pining for a Felder KF700S, with the goal of using the Erika 70 exclusively as a mobile saw. If I find myself with a big shop project, and/or decide a KF700 is beyond my budget I'd definitely revisit this....
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ramin
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by ramin on Feb 7, 2020 6:13:15 GMT -5
Hi, I used the Incra T-track allen bolts which are 1/4" (6.35mm) - I used a 6.5mm drill, so we could say there is a tiny bit of room for movement. I marked accurately and drilled accurately! My initial idea was to use the Mafell 1m guide 038392 to which I could add the dovetail clamping pieces. I tried it as I have all the pieces - it works, very well... but it doesn't flex at all without - the Incra is super solid, so I decided on my old Elu guide fence that I really like. Of course, I have the option to use the Mafell guide if I want to later on. Thanks for the info, just a last question, sorry. When you say you marked "accurately". What did you mark from? What is your reference? The edge of the table? The blade?
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Post by aas on Feb 7, 2020 11:23:17 GMT -5
I put the Incra in place where I wanted it, put masking tape around, marked where the T-slots are on the masking tape with a pen, then measured underneath the Mafell leaf to make sure I wasn't drilling into the ribs.
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Post by aas on Feb 7, 2020 11:27:44 GMT -5
Here you can see the holes drilled to miss the ribs... just need to line up like this in the front back direction of the leaf, and left right the holes need to line up with the T-track slots in the LS base
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Post by aas on Feb 8, 2020 14:57:52 GMT -5
I also have an incra ls and when my erika extension table arrives I'm planning on doing this as well. I have 2 questions for you though. 1) How do you square the fence? Do you drill the hole slightly bigger on the extension table so you can shift the positioner untill it's square? 2) The good thing about the Erika fence is that you can use the dovetail clamping piece to have it fixed at 2 points to the table. This give me really accurate cuts with zero deflection. How is the deflection when you use the incra fence? I was thinking of maybe trying to mod the fence so I can attach the clamping piece to it as well. I think that would be super stable for rip cuts. If you're worried about deflection, I have the solution...
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Post by aas on Feb 8, 2020 14:58:31 GMT -5
... of course, I'm just kidding!.. couldn't resist!
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Post by aas on Feb 8, 2020 15:02:29 GMT -5
So this is what you had in mind...
... it works fine, just in my mind, no need for the guide fence to go right past the blade.
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Post by aas on Feb 8, 2020 15:06:15 GMT -5
So I have used this very solid aluminium extrusion, guide fence off my old Elu site saw I purchased in 1990! It is very stable, does not go past the blade, it can be turned the other way around and be put flat if I need to :
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