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Post by jalvis on Nov 4, 2014 12:06:56 GMT -5
Doing research on window making and came across this video.
Considering making windows for my new house this coming summer. Planning on Casements but nothing that requires the complex and expensive modern European casement tooling. If anyone has any good knowledge or links regarding windows please share.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 4, 2014 12:48:35 GMT -5
Are you planning to make traditional flush casement windows or stormproof windows. The fancy tooling is obviously a time saver, but also expensive. Modern windows also have what is called decompression chambers so the air pressure is higher in one part of the frame then any moisture blowing in can't pass the decompression chamber of the frame as the air pressure is higher in that area and the seals are the last line of defence in the window
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Post by jalvis on Nov 4, 2014 16:50:21 GMT -5
My design will be "Flush" but more like a door in design. Euro casements have an external wood flange and two seals. The tooling to accomplish this task is a minimum $5K and is better suited for a 7+ HP shaper. My shaper/moulder is 5hp. Not interested in the learning curve, tooling cost, and specialized hardware.
What I'm considering is a casement that hinges flush to the outside but uses rubber seals like a modern door. Planning on using factory made double pane glass that will be siliconed in place with wood strips tacked to the inside rather than traditional glazing.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Nov 4, 2014 21:59:11 GMT -5
That was a good video...lots of hand work. Boy, makes me glad there are other options for some tasks, but shows what you can do with hand tools and knowledge of how to use them. Very cool.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 5, 2014 5:33:08 GMT -5
Truthfully you don't need any fancy cutters just a rebate block, a 10 degree beval block or some other block for the pattern of your choice and a a groover. And a drip cutter. The euro windows you refer to are what we call stormproof. Most windows now will properly have there glazing beads on the inside. In europe the Window section come planed to size for either frames or sashes then get put through to the moulds that the company uses. Just simply to save on waste. Not sure if that sort of thing is available in NA. Also we tend to use a dry glaze system instead of silicone as it has better u values.
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Post by jalvis on Nov 5, 2014 11:33:17 GMT -5
Good point with the Dry Glazing. Have to do more research on the topic but I can see some advantages.
As for material pre-sized for windows in the USA. None of my suppliers carry such a product. In fact my wholesale supplier doesn't really have much for windows. They specialize in Cabinet materials.
Most windows in the USA are vinyl and houses 20 years or older have aluminum unless its pre 1950. In my area houses just get bigger not better. A house in the $500-600K has vinyl and thats a pricey house in my area. I feel like anything a build will be better than 90% of what's common. Thinking a mock-up is in order.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 5, 2014 12:37:04 GMT -5
It's a total misconception that pvc windows are cheaper the initial outlay is obviously cheaper. Yet over the lifetime timber windows can work out cheaper. I personally hate pvc windows. I know some of the manufacturers show profiles of there window sections which might be useful. Are you going to be using the domino or doweler or M and T joinery. When I made the windows for the shed I used the doweler. If I was doing again I would maybe do comb joints as more glue area. They are ok. Obviously I don't know know what your regs are in your area. In Scotland all windows have to be able to be cleaned from the inside. They usually have special hinges. Also depending on the height of the windows if below a certain height or at the bottom of a stairs and doors have to have saftey glass in case you fall through them. Not sure if that will apply to you or not
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Post by jalvis on Nov 5, 2014 16:55:29 GMT -5
I plan to use slip joints or through mortises shimmed in place. I think either will be a good choice. There aren't many requirements for windows in the USA. All doors with glass must be tempered and windows below 18" of finished floor must be tempered as well. Thats about it from my knowledge.
My current house originally had aluminum and were replaced 20 years later with vinyl. Sad to think windows need replaced every 20 years.
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Post by toomanytoys on Nov 5, 2014 19:31:33 GMT -5
The windows in our New Jersey early 1800's farmhouse are made in the manner of the video. All have hand blown glass, wavy and with air bubbles. Timber framed house with all the mortice, tendons and pegs as would be expected. White American cedar logs for the floor joists, best I can tell original white cedar siding with square forged nails holding it on and true whitewash covering the back surfaces of the siding. My parents bought it in 1952 just before I was born and never did any of the typical renovation (could not afford to). Yes, it needs work!
I have to replace one window and plan on building it like the original ones.
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Post by GhostFist on Nov 6, 2014 12:58:45 GMT -5
It's not hard was working on a method to do the joinery super fast with my 300
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Post by jalvis on Nov 11, 2014 11:20:45 GMT -5
It's not hard was working on a method to do the joinery super fast with my 300 Like a lap joint? |
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Post by GhostFist on Nov 11, 2014 12:26:53 GMT -5
Ya all the lap joints. It's as easy as making a miter box for your kss saw. Set your bevel angle and depth on the saw. Align your marked pieces (all at once with a stop set on your box) and chop away. Set one kerf for your straight cuts and one for your beveled cuts and you can build the window all at your bench.
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Post by occamsrazor on Feb 6, 2015 13:11:19 GMT -5
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 6, 2015 14:07:18 GMT -5
Excellent stuff
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 6, 2015 23:13:32 GMT -5
Love books like these. There's quite a few available for free download if you look on Google play. Have you read the Audel carpenter guide? |
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