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Post by holmz on May 3, 2016 2:31:46 GMT -5
The used Cantex Arrived today.
I will test it out and then order the fence.
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Post by GhostFist on May 3, 2016 4:22:08 GMT -5
Pictures
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Post by holmz on May 3, 2016 6:06:46 GMT -5
 I still need the fence I think. |
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Post by jimbouk on May 3, 2016 6:48:58 GMT -5
I have never needed the fence on mine
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Post by holmz on May 3, 2016 7:55:50 GMT -5
I have never needed the fence on mine Qi am thinking of putting some wood against fibreglass, so I do not want to nick the semi rough surface. maybe I'll try it first ?? |
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Post by jimbouk on May 3, 2016 8:23:35 GMT -5
I'm not sure what you mean sorry. Maybe a picture would help?
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Post by holmz on May 6, 2016 2:32:25 GMT -5
I'm not sure what you mean sorry. Maybe a picture would help? Probably a DP1019C6 but maybe a 16-mm or 25-mm: atlcomposites.com.au/icart/products/92/images/main/Duflex%20%20%20Balsa.pdfSome other options: atlcomposites.com.au/product/96/Featherlight-Interior-Panelsatlcomposites.com.au/product/62/Coosa-BluewaterSo I think the plan is... 1) Apply any levelers needed, which is like a base coat to keep any fibreglass pattern from telegraphing through the veneer. 2) Biscuit some real wood along the edges. Australia Jarrah, myrtle, or walnet, Teak, or Rosewood. 3) Cantex it flush. 4) Vacuum bag on some veneer skins. 5) Trim it up. 6) Oil and/or lacquer it up. 6) Install any LED pucks and hinges required. 7) Polish it up. This will be for a table top that tilts up. I may be doing three of them, and one will likely be Myrtle or Jarrah. Probably a similar approach for the sides, bottom, front and back, and using Clampex to hold it together. ------ Also for some cabinets with a nice layer wood. So biscuit on some end-caps. Then do I just slide the Cantex around, or do I need to be mindful to keep it right on the line? Or use their fence? |
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Post by jimbouk on May 6, 2016 2:46:03 GMT -5
So it's a ply wood with a laminate face basically?
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Post by holmz on May 6, 2016 17:24:11 GMT -5
Yeah
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