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Videos
Mar 4, 2013 0:39:43 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Mar 4, 2013 0:39:43 GMT -5
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Videos
Jun 10, 2013 14:04:08 GMT -5
Post by GhostFist on Jun 10, 2013 14:04:08 GMT -5
From Aaron
Hi here is a video of the dd40p being used to make a casement Window. I don't put together as i still need to do the rebates at the sides for the sash to fit into, which I have done using the erika saw will post the link when I get it downloaded . Also I'm still getting used the doweler so have to think it through a bit more Aaron
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 11, 2013 20:12:59 GMT -5
At the weekend I was using the dd40p to drill 16mm dowels for making a door I intend to post up all the steps of the process as go along so people can see the process the video I did with the guide rails was of the panel for the door, I have also put drainage channels in the ply to allow any moisture to evaporation off the inside of the v lining there by speeding up the dry time of the timber. I have made grooves using the festool of1010 router. Some.of the steps would be easier with a workshop set up but am busy working on that process the only tool I feel short of is a planer thicknesser so at the moment I use a friends workshop to dress the wood and straighten
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Post by nicholas on Apr 1, 2014 22:02:56 GMT -5
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Videos
Apr 2, 2014 11:38:59 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by GhostFist on Apr 2, 2014 11:38:59 GMT -5
Pretty sweet. I like that setup.
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Videos
Apr 2, 2014 22:21:59 GMT -5
Post by nucone on Apr 2, 2014 22:21:59 GMT -5
At the weekend I was using the dd40p to drill 16mm dowels for making a door I intend to post up all the steps of the process as go along so people can see the process the video I did with the guide rails was of the panel for the door, I have also put drainage channels in the ply to allow any moisture to evaporation off the inside of the v lining there by speeding up the dry time of the timber. I have made grooves using the festool of1010 router. Some.of the steps would be easier with a workshop set up but am busy working on that process the only tool I feel short of is a planer thicknesser so at the moment I use a friends workshop to dress the wood and straighten In the video, it appears as if you are really having to push the DD40 hard to drill the holes. Is this normal?
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Videos
Apr 3, 2014 0:08:12 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 3, 2014 0:08:12 GMT -5
No the cutters where seriously blunt, since then I have changed them. Huge improvement I have worked out it is best to give a quick push rather than a slow push
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Apr 3, 2014 6:37:46 GMT -5
Post by nucone on Apr 3, 2014 6:37:46 GMT -5
Thanks - that makes sense.
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Videos
Apr 20, 2014 16:58:32 GMT -5
via mobile
garch likes this
Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 20, 2014 16:58:32 GMT -5
Here is a vid I have done using the dd40 to aid in making soffit boards. I used the dowels to aid in keeping the boards lined up and to also help in checking the shadow gap on the left and right are both correct as some of the spaces didn't run 100% true. Do before getting coated before getting fixed in place I wanted the boards to be correct for the space they are to go into.
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Videos
Apr 20, 2014 18:22:05 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by GhostFist on Apr 20, 2014 18:22:05 GMT -5
Man your workshop is going to be beautiful when it's completed. Door, windows and corbels all look sweet. Getting the soffit in there is going to look great as well. Out of curiosity, what's your material thickness for your soffit boards, what size dowels are you using, and are you plunging into tongue and groove? Do you get any dowel showing?
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Videos
Apr 20, 2014 19:06:40 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 20, 2014 19:06:40 GMT -5
The boards are 15mm thick or just under 5/8. The dowels are 6mm which are the same thickness as the tongues and grooves they are totally hidden. The 5mm would be better but 6mm works for what I need. I thought I would use the dowels to aid in keep the boards lined up and also to check the the shadow gap. If it was work the boards would just get fired in tight and would only get painted on the face showing. Also the gorbels wouldn't exist. Do things like this let's me try things and see how it goes. There is some things I would different if doing again like I would properly have incorporated the linning boards into the roof design at the time of building the roof before the firring prices got fixed on top of ceiling joists. I do like to draw any idea I have on paper before executing. I find it helpful in the thinking process
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Videos
Apr 20, 2014 21:05:20 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by GhostFist on Apr 20, 2014 21:05:20 GMT -5
I'm like you, I like to experiment at any opportunity, which is mostly stuff for myself. I also like to draw out plans or sketch ideas. I'm a visual orientated person I suppose.
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Videos
Apr 21, 2014 20:45:30 GMT -5
Post by garch on Apr 21, 2014 20:45:30 GMT -5
The shadow gap is a very nice detail. Really makes the rafter tails stand out. A detail that's not common around here. Your project is coming along nicely, I can't wait to see more progress photos and videos.
Do you not use the auto feature on the vac for a reason? Just curious.
When I saw you put on the ear muffs it reminded me of myself a bit. I had to laugh...thinking to myself he's about to fire it up. Man is that dd40p loud or what? I make sure I have ear muffs close by before starting up my dd.
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Videos
Apr 22, 2014 0:28:55 GMT -5
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garch likes this
Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 22, 2014 0:28:55 GMT -5
As the majority of my tools are 110 the vac is 110 and the dd40p is 240 it can't go directly into the vac so the auto start won't trigger, hence the reason for manually starting the vac. Another reason I'm doing a shadow gap is especially on the wall if you have 2 surfaces butting up to each other you get what is called capiliration where moisture gets soaked into the joint and into the end grain which is the area rot will start. So by doing the shadow gap it also stops the capiliration effect happening
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Post by stofke72 on Apr 22, 2014 12:15:37 GMT -5
I have a question regarding the dd40. I recently bought a pocket hole screw kit. And it does the job and fairly well.
Anyway I was thinking could one use the dd40 actually for making these angled pocketholes? I don't think it's possible but if you could that would make it even more versatile.
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