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Post by woodguru on Oct 14, 2014 14:11:27 GMT -5
Have ordered a parallel fence and flexi guide, will play around with it some more before I get the rigid guide rails, the 800 rails will fit in the case, but I may get the 1100s and get a carry bag.
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Post by jalvis on Oct 15, 2014 9:58:26 GMT -5
The F style rails join strait and easily. Its a perfect system. I use to want a single long rail for 8 foot sheets but after joining shorter rails I'm glad I never did. I wouldn't go longer then 160.
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Post by woodguru on Oct 16, 2014 15:58:03 GMT -5
The flexi guide is 1400mm (I think) which will be fine for now, I'm getting used to the 400 now, it's been great on the staircase, although the 50mm old oak is probably about as much as it can handle, now I'm trimming treads which are about 28mm thick, it seems much easier, I need to experiment with different blades etc, on the same site I'm working on, there are some carpenters pitching a very complicated roof, and watching them clamping bits of timber to the work, to run their saws along now seems so primitive, for me, the main reason I wanted the KSS system is for the cross cutting ability, it is so quick and easy !
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Post by GhostFist on Oct 16, 2014 17:29:47 GMT -5
Absolutely! Once you start using a kss saw it's difficult to go back. perfect results without any set up. My only complaint about my 300 is that every time I take it out people flock over to gawk at it and I have to explain the whole thing to them.
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sean
New Member
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Post by sean on Jul 30, 2015 6:48:51 GMT -5
I have a Festool TS55 but hardly ever use it anymore since I purchased a KSS300 and the Mafell rails. I honestly wish I had known about Mafell before I bought the Festool as Mafell's rails are several orders of magnitude better than Festool's. And I think going the KSS300 route with some rails is the best introduction to the Mafell system. When cutting sheet goods I do it on a cutting table I built and use my joined rails for long rips and the Flexi guide for cross cuts. I have never found the KSS300 to be lacking for power. I'm a big fan of dados in my work and that's where the KSS300 shines. I bought the Kapex specifically for its ability to trench but never use it for that anymore as the KSS300 is simply awesome in that regard. At some point I'll be adding the MT55 and the KSS80, but after I finally buy an Erika. I will always be a fan of Festool but there is simply no way around the superiority of Mafell's rail system and their saws.
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Post by tymbian on Oct 10, 2015 17:54:37 GMT -5
Hi guys, go gentle with me, first post etc...I've read most of the posts on this forum concerning the KSS 300/400/80 during extensive internet searching after my scms & vs gave up the ghost within a week of each other. For an upcoming project I was looking at getting a ts55 when I spied the Mafell KSS300. Whilst researching this I came across the 400 which seemed to have a more ideal doc.then along came the 80. Truth is I seem to have reached a state of mental overload reading up on these 3.the upcoming project will involve 40% sheet/ 40% 4x2/ 20% laminate. After this I'll be going back to decking, garden structures using 4, 6 & 8 by 2 an 3. Also fencing using 4/4 and 5/5 and sleepers etc. Now I thought of getting the 300 but it's doc isn't enough for most of my work and on my current project (framing a roof)a bosch 12"scms struggled with some of valley cuts but the 80 would of been ideal. My Q is this...is the 80 too heavy to use as a light duty saw..ie, mdf, chipboard, osb
sheets as well as laminate & hardwood flooring & 4x2's or should I get the 400 and upgrade to the 80 when needed? Also what can the 300 do that the 400 that the 80 can't if you know what I mean. I thought they all had the same functions and rail usage but it seems not as the 400 won't shadow-gap to 13mm for instance..
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Oct 11, 2015 0:13:47 GMT -5
Tough choice. I have the 80 and love it -- it is a marvel in engineering. It is a bit on the heavy side so swinging it around all day can get tiring, but once on the rails or even on the wood it just powers through the cuts -- whatever you can throw at it. I think that an 80 paired with a 300 would be a really good combination. I think one thing about the 300 and 80 that I like is the blade guard lever is on the right of the saw so you can cut closer to an edge whereas the 400 has the lever on the outside of the housing that you activate with your thumb. Some users swear by each one and they all have their place. For an all around 2x, 1x and sheet goods I think I would go with a 300 or 400. If you need to cut thicker hardwood, then the 80.
Others will weigh in based on their experiences.
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Post by erik on Oct 11, 2015 12:11:54 GMT -5
Looks like the same post in two threads, so maybe here is best. I leave the 80 in the shop when using the 400 and 55 on site, since it can handle tasks, and more, which those saws are known for: track work, cross cutting, free hand, etc..So, if I need to complete a task, I'm not dragging my saws back and forth, I just bring my tracks off site and use the 80. So, it can be your everything saw but, the weight requires respect.
Sometimes, I work a bit precariously, I use the "just enough" method for supporting material to cut with the lighter saws and I feel confident that I'm in control. Not so much with the 80, lots of power, smooth power I would add, and plenty of heft. So, I cannot overextend cuts, or just throw lattice on the horses and cut away; materials need to be supported and I need to maintain a proper center of gravity to work safely.
When framing free-handed, you have to register the guide stops to the work edge, which changes the directional forces you need to make a cut; you're pushing the work in and up towards yourself and then opposing those forces when pushing the saw in the opposite direction. With a worm drive you're doing a similar action, but to a much lesser degree/fidelity and you benefit from the inertia when the saw travels downwards. Not so much with the 80, I need to increase the pushing force since its traveling on the guide and naturally, I'm tipping the work up, rather than down and letting gravity pull the saw.
So, besides the weight, here are some things to consider, the 770 guide bow only fits the 400 and since the 80 has a larger footprint, you have less travel on the guide bow and a decreased length of cut. But the 80 bevels to 60 degrees and the plunge mechanism is so much smoother and adjustable than the 400. I saw the pics of the 60 and it doesn't have the 80's plunge mechanics? I was hoping all the newer saws would be upgraded. The 60 looks likes it might be the new middle saw.
Well, the 80 can certainly cover the bases of those other saws but it does come at a cost, and I'm not just talking price but the weight.
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Post by tymbian on Oct 11, 2015 12:57:26 GMT -5
Erik thanks, some great opinions to chew over..its a shame the 400 doesn't have the smooth plunge of the 80 and it's a shame the 80 doesn't fit on the 700 guide. I don't think I'd mind the weight of the 80 so much if using it on big stuff but I can imagine it's a pain on lighter, narrow stock..
Does the 400 have the scoring function and what's with the horizontal trim or shadow-gap measurement?
What would your "ideal set-up" be for the 400 for sheet, 2x stock and melamine etc. be
Kss400 with guide, 770 guide and 2 x 1400 rails?
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Post by 7 on Oct 11, 2015 20:52:58 GMT -5
One carpenters opinion: MT55- By far the best choice for all sheet goods. Includes Ply, OSB, melamine, MDF, veneers, etc etc. KSS400- Best choice for decks, fences, framing. Works well for sheet goods especially if you can start the cut before entering the sheet and end the cut after completely exiting the sheet. KSS300- extremely versatile. My favorite for wood flooring, small trim jobs like installing and casing one or two doors. Nice to have so much in one systainer box. KSS80- I don't own it so I am sort of guessing- great for larger timbers like those used for pergolas, post and beam work, 6/4 and thicker hardwood processing, and for just feeling cool with so much power in the palm of your hand  |
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Post by erik on Oct 12, 2015 20:54:55 GMT -5
No scoring function on the kss saws and it has a pertruading tab on the blade gaurd so horizantal trimming might be out unless you modified the saw.
Definetly get plenty of use out of the 770 when building wide shelving, closets and larger build ins. I haven't cut melamine with the saw but when cutting oak and walnut vennered plywood i noticed that the saw has a bit of play on the guide bows and unless you are careful you will tear up the veneer even with a high tooth blade. Unlike the 55, the 400 has no built in tension points along its bottom plate where it contacts the guide or track. In this scenerio, the 80 has served me better since it wieghs more and was less easily tilted. So, now i am always ficused on delivery a smooth even slow pressure to the 400 when cross cutting thin veneers. This may nit be an issue on melamine. I think wrightwood has videoes where he's cutting melamine panels with the 770.
And yes, the 1400s are great for cutting sheet goods.
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