If you have a dd40 you wont need the template and 1010 for shelf pins. Just buy two 5 mm bits and you can drill two holes instead of one.
Although for larger sizes over 12 mm that jig will be needed. In fact I could use one today. I'm building new Miter Saw Wings and drilling 20 mm holes like the MFT for clamping. Not near as fast or precise with a Forstner and drill.
ya I was thinking for cup hinges and larger sized holes. My next top will be made with 3/4" dog holes though. Bits are more readily available and 20mm is only necessary for the festool clamping elements, which are nice but there are alternatives.
I drilled 3/4" in my mobile bench top but if you have any 20 mm clamps or dogs your out of luck. During the last year I've been working on transitioning to Metric systems.
What Alternatives are you considering for 3/4"?
I need cross compatibility for everything. It bothers me that dogs or clamps for one table don't fit the other. Its best to pick a size and stay consistent with everything.
On a side note as my business grows I think using the metric system for measuring will drastically help with errors. I'm trying to build a dummy system for workers. Its amazing how difficult fractions become in woodworking. Even the construction calculators have to round up or down.
personally I don't have a problem with either metric or imperial standard measurements. I've worked so much with fractions that it's second nature now. Veritas make a wide variety of dogs and clamps for a 3/4 dog hole, and I've got a Lee Valley down the road, yes they also sell festool stuff here, but I prefer having more options.
Having Lee Valley down the road would be nice. The best option in my area is Woodcraft.
Most professionals are proficient in Metric or Imperial. Metric I think allows someone who isn't experienced be accurate immediately. The sooner you get production the faster you make money from that worker.
Veritas is coming out with more options in 20 mm and Theres also Qwas dogs which are only in 20 mm. If you already have an MFT than its easier to drill for compatibility. You must not have any plans for an MFT?
No, not sold on an MFT, it's just a top with some holes poked in it. Theres something that really bothers me when people are relying on the holes for accurate layout mor than the supplied fence as well. There are just certain thing, I feel at least, a carpenter should build for himself/herself. I can spend $700 on a table and try and make it work for me, or I can make a table that suits my needs perfectly. My rough prototype cart, which isn't anything special is almost perfect and I letterally just slapped it together without a plan. I've been using that for over a year and it's all made out of scrap. all dog holes are done with a drill and a 20mm forstner. I laid out a grid by hand. This cart seves as rolling storage but with the locking castors I put on it, it's a really stable bench. over all height is 3' to the finished top, which is a good height for me but it also seems a standard in film up here when they make shop benches, so it serves as an extension to existing benches. none of those things the MFT does and I probably spent less than $100 on the thing. Guido Henn has a few videos on custum benches and track saw jigs he's made and I'd much rather have one of them than the MFT.
Guido Henn has some great videos on shop fixtures.
I'm not sold on the MFT either.....I have not purchased one. Although If I could get my hands on a Walko for a good price!
I built Ron Paulk's Ultimate workbench and really like it. My setup is the same as Ron's 4'x8' which isn't the best size in my opinion since theres no place for rail clamps with a full sheet. It would be much better in a 3'x6'. I like haveing the box unit that allows for tool placement so you dont clutter the bench top. Ron also has designed a cross cut system like the MFT for the bench top. Smart stuff!
I think the same thing about Miter Saw stands. There just isn't a perfect setup no matter how much you pay.
One consideration when building your own stuff is time. It takes a lot of time to build; especially without drawn out a plan and cut list. I screwed up one of the wings yesterday and had to rebuild it, but like you said if you use shop extras it's cheap.
yes theres the time factor and certainly it's something to consider. but if you're building out of scrap you can kinda sketch with what you build by mocking up a useable prototype. my ugly cart doesn't have all of the features I want out of it yet but its still more useable to me than anything store bought. Don't get me wrong, I love some festool stuff to death but they make some stuff that's not worth it to me, and I'm a person willing to spend
Completely agree. Although I've said that exact thing about some festools that I now own....like the Kapex. Costly saw but I jumped when the recondition sale had them for 20% off, free shipping, and no tax. Can't say I'm disappointed. I really like the saw, particularly the Bevel function and dual lasers......makes work much easier.
Festool has stepped out as a manufacturer who will solve every problem with an accessory(the new Carvex Jigsaw is proof of that statement). Thats one reason why I like Mafell. Its about innovation and function where it counts; nothing thats not needed or can't be compensated by the user is provided.
Good conversation. I have built my own miter saw table and a general MFT style table and like them both a lot. I will upload pics when I figure out how.
The regular work table has a hollow center like the Paulk bench. It incorporates trojan sawhorses for the legs (the sawhorses attach to a 2x6 that pocket up into the bottom of the table) It is really stable. The top is removable and I switch between a mdf top with MFT type holes and a router table built in and a second top that is just a sacrificial MDF for using the MT55 and KSS300. This table is exactly 3' x 6' (as jalvis commented on) and I find the size to be perfect. I cut a lot of 4x8 sheets on it and they never feel shifty at all.
The Miter saw stand is build based on the basic old DeWalt miter stand with the undersized wings that barely hold the trim. It has bigger (like 2 1/2") holes drilled into the top. I used a Kreg stop system for the repeat stops. I have really liked both tables.
abdon: I stand corrected , the angle fence is only attaches with F -Tracks , what confused me was , that the Timberwolf site mentioned it will work with the NFU machine, yes it will work but only I guess when you use the Ftrack , with other tracks Like the KSS L.
Nov 28, 2020 22:52:01 GMT -5
glynnco: Did you order from GereedschapPro? I see them as in stock but I'm located in the US and am not sure if they ship here. I sent them an email asking about shipping but it was returned undeliverable...
Dec 10, 2020 7:37:40 GMT -5
jonathan: I've purchased a lot of stuff from our neighbours @ GereedschapPro.nl As far as I know they are one of the larger Mafell dealers in the EU. I can recommend them, they usually respond quickly.
Dec 11, 2020 13:58:36 GMT -5
NFU 50 Transportation?: Hi Guys, is there some Systainer for the NFU 50?
Dec 11, 2020 14:30:12 GMT -5
frezik24: Hello everyone
Dec 13, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
lasse: Thanks for the tip! I have own a mafell rail which is 160 cm and one that is 80 cm. Will it work just as well or will I need to buy rail that is 110 cm?
Mar 18, 2021 15:35:15 GMT -5