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Post by GhostFist on Mar 26, 2014 17:44:51 GMT -5
At first I had trouble plunging with the 300 because it's such a different action than I'm used to. Now I'm pretty good with it and find it an excellent option. I like the parallel rise and fall system, especially for trenching cuts.
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Post by 7 on Mar 27, 2014 23:23:25 GMT -5
KSS 400 quick questions.
1- looks like the 400s track has the same splinter guard as the F rails, Correct?
2- Looks like the saw base doesn't cover the entire track? Could the edge where it looks like it has a profile be used to attach a jig for repeat cut lengths? I would be wanting to primarily repeat the length of 3 feet so nothing too long & awkward.
3- Is the 400 much more powerful than the 300? I already know that the 300 is 900W and the 400 is 1100W but a lot can be done with gearing etc too. I realize this is a relative question and hard to answer, just looking for general " feel" on relative power. (tomg might be the only one with both saws that can answer this relating to the 300. I also have the mt55 so relative power between those two is fine too).
4- Does anyone know if the 770 track can be stored in the carrying case?
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 27, 2014 23:35:49 GMT -5
Hi 7! I apologize for posting just the pics for now, hopefully later next week work'll slow down to the point where I'll have a little more time in the evenings to actually post some thoughts. That being said, here are some quickie thoughts and answers for your questions:
1. The cross cutting track for the 400 DOES use the same splinter strip as the F-tracks. Very convenient, and VERY easy to replace!
2. There ARE exposed T-tracks in the bottom of the KSS-400 track, it occurred to me as well that they might be a nice mounting point for some sort of repeaters setup.....
3. YES. The KSS-400 and MT-55cc seem to have very similar power levels, though they are rated at different wattage. The KSS-400 is noticeably (well, to me at least) more powerful than the KSS-300, most notably when ripping 2x material (with an appropriate blade, of course). The KSS-300 has plenty of power for cross cutting, particularly 1x material but does fine with 2x material as well, but struggles when ripping, whereas the 400 feels just as powerful as any framing saw I've used.
4. I don't know for certain, but I doubt that the 770 track can be stored in the case. Wrightwoodwork would be the man to answer that particular question.
The KSS-400 and MT-55cc have nearly identical power and cut quality, the differences between them are ergonomics, dust collection efficiency, variable speed, and general versatility. I plan on keeping both of them because they each fit a particular need. Based on my experience thus far, the KSS-400 will fit 90% of my needs, with the MT-55cc filling in the areas where the 400 isn't quite perfect (hard to believe, right???).
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 28, 2014 8:27:36 GMT -5
Sounds like you're pretty happy with the saws. The 770 track will not fit in the case only the 400
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Post by 7 on Mar 28, 2014 22:56:46 GMT -5
tomg and wright- Thanks for your reply's. I am strongly considering the 400 and will probably order one next week. I plan to use it mostly for decks but I imagine that just like my other Mafell saws it will float into my mind all the time as a solution for some random task and end up being used for a lot more than just decks.
Thanks again for the responses, they help a lot when there isn't a brick & mortar location to visit.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 29, 2014 17:06:09 GMT -5
Here are some photos of my 1st gen, rough draft for a dual purpose landing pad, blade and rip guide storage tote for my KSS-400. With the handle folded, the Systainer slides into the tote, then if you lift the handle it traps the systainer in the tote and allows you to carry it around....
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 29, 2014 17:08:20 GMT -5
Here's some photos showing the saw on the landing pad. The ends are tall enough that the lower guard just clears the top of the systainer. To remove the saw from the track, I just tip the saw forward so it is just resting on the forward cleat, pull the saw off the back, then let the track rest on the tote. Attachments:
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 29, 2014 17:10:35 GMT -5
....And, here's the tote on-site! The tote worked out nice because it meant that I wasn't setting the saw directly on the new hardwood floor. I was using the saw for cutting the millwork in the addition for my whole-house remodel I'm working on. Attachments:
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Mar 29, 2014 17:27:51 GMT -5
tomg and wright- Thanks for your reply's. I am strongly considering the 400 and will probably order one next week. I plan to use it mostly for decks but I imagine that just like my other Mafell saws it will float into my mind all the time as a solution for some random task and end up being used for a lot more than just decks. Thanks again for the responses, they help a lot when there isn't a brick & mortar location to visit. 7, you won't be disappointed! I originally though I'd mostly be using the KSS-400 for framing, but it turns out to be every bit as accurate and precise as the KSS-300 or MT-55cc. The KSS-300 is definitely lighter, but for reasons I can't really articulate very well, I feel like I have a bit more control of the 400. Either way, my opinion is that all three saws are extremely accurate, but have different capacities and ergonomics. The 400 is my "Go-To" saw for framing AND millwork.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 29, 2014 18:09:27 GMT -5
Nice job with the flooring and good idea with the tote
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Post by 7 on Mar 30, 2014 0:13:57 GMT -5
Nice- like all the pics. I think those pictures actually show the track and saw close up better than any others on the internet. That makes Mafell marketing sound a bit pathetic since that wasn't even your purpose in posting the pics:).
Another feature I really like is the fact that the blades are the same as the MT55- I already have a bunch of those blades so I can burn them up on both saws and get them resharpened when needed.
Is the hose port the 27mm like the KSS300 or the 36mm like the MT55? I couldn't tell from the pictures…it looked like the skinny 27mm hose but appeared like it had a 36mm end on it. Wait, I just looked again- I am guessing its the 36mm port on the saw- looks like you have the 27mm inside the port?? If that's right then its like the 55s where it's either or, inside or outside.
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Post by 7 on Apr 9, 2014 0:02:05 GMT -5
KSS 400 should arrive friday. I am anxious to try to figure out if there is any way to attach to the rail for some sort of parallel guide. I want to cut deck stairs quickly without setting up a miter saw with a stop. Every stair gets two on the tread and one for the riser all at the same length typically between 3 and 4 feet.
The track looks wider than the F guide rails, is this the case? Any ideas of attaching to the rail would be helpful but I will likely just need to figure it out when it arrives.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 9, 2014 4:26:47 GMT -5
I might be miss understanding what you want. I'm guessing you want to make the stringers for deck stairs. The way way I would go about is to set my square to the intersecting point where the rise meets the going from the top and draw that line the full length of the stringer. A bit like a pitch line. Then I would work out the angels of the rise, say 30 degrees and make a cut from the top side of the stringer to the pitch line that has being marked and stop. Then I would set the angle at 60 degrees to make 90 degrees then from the top of the stringer place the rail so it intersects the point where the riser met the pitch line and cut to that point. Then I would set 30 degrees again and place the rail so it is at the point where the going started at the top of the stringer and make the rise cut down the pitch line and repeat until the desired number of steps has being made. Then to finish off I would just use a hand saw to cut the last bit where the round saw blade doesn't touch
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Post by 7 on Apr 9, 2014 21:57:59 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply wright. I am trying to figure out a way to set repeat cuts for the treads and risers (that will be screwed onto the stringers rise & run). For example if the stairs are 4 feet wide and there are 14 risers with 13 runs (treads) then I will need to make 42 cuts at 4' wide (2 deck boards for the run and 1 for the rise) It would be nice to make a basic jig that could somehow connect to the KSS track so I could just set a stop and cut like a mad man instead of measuring and marking each time. On big decks I usually just set up the miter saw and stand because it is worth the time savings but I would rather just add a jig to the KSS 400 for the repeat cuts. Does this make sense? No different from parallel guides except that I would only be cutting stuff that is 6-8" wide.
I figured I would use my worm drive circular saw for cutting stringers but it might actually be faster to set the angles and cut them with the KSS. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Post by 7 on Apr 15, 2014 21:58:59 GMT -5
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