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Post by jalvis on Apr 6, 2013 16:35:55 GMT -5
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Post by wrightwoodwork on May 5, 2013 8:57:18 GMT -5
Hi I have an Erika 70EC it is a truly amazing table saw. Yes it is ridiculous expensive but it is made to an extremely high accuracy out of the factory in Germany where they are hand assembled, which can be fine tuned if any settings get knocked out of allignment. On the Erika 70EC comes with what is called a universal fence has a full range of 180 degrees of turn enabling you to cut at any angle you want and also you use as the rip fence. On the front and back of table there are steel tapes set with sizes left and right allowing for fence to be set off the measurements with no need to measure at the saw blade for rip cuts. None of the get the rule out measure the fence at the blade, tighten then the fence moves and you got to re do. As standard you can do rip cuts upto 250mm (10“) left or right , as an accessory you can get 1m extension rails which slide on to the dovetail profiles which are all the way around the table, you just slide on the extension rails and the extension table then you are able to cut wider sizes easily and repeatedly. You do get a fence just for ripping, personally I don't see the point in buying umless you need to fine tune the cut. The univeral fence supplied is a perfectly good fence and does what is meant to but the multi purpose fence supplied with the Erika 85 is a slightly better fence. The reason being on the multi purpose fence is no matter what angle you set the fence to the 0 is always the same distance from the blade. The blade can be set just so it misses the fence and no more and if you are doing a 45 degree miter you can do two miters without adjusting the angle of the fence. The universal fenc works on a half cirle so if you have fence 0 with the blade at 90 then go to do a 45 the fence will not be 0 off the blade unless you 0 fence with the blade , it isn't a problem but is another step to perform. The advantage of having the fence 0 distance from the blade is when you go to make the cross cuts you just mark the wood where you want to cut to be , place the mark so is just visible from the fence , so when the blade come through it will be right on the mark same as when using the kss systems I will post some picture just need to workout how from the mobile The Erika saws are totally expandable allowing for the fence to be extended in 1m intervals upto what ever you want then you can add stops to or simply clamp a piece of wood on then cut all your studs to the same length if doing stud wall no need to measure every piece to length, cut the dwangs(noggins) all to there right size for the centers you are working too allowing you to work in a production way instead of doing work in a individual piece by piece
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Post by jalvis on May 5, 2013 10:18:49 GMT -5
Thanks for your Mini-Review!
Theres limited information on this saw for others to see and read so your information is really valuable. I look forward to the Photos.
In summary your talking about the Three available fences for the Erika which are the Following:
Multi-purpose guide fence (MFA) #203400 (comes with 85) Universal Guide Fence #201611 (comes with 70) Rip Fence Guide #035358 (accessory option)
From your experience you're saying the MFA is the best option of the three?
Also you are referring to the "Supporting Rail" accessories to allow longer ripping.
800mm (31 1/2 in) Supporting Rail #038291 1000mm (39 3/8 in) Supporting Rail #038686
Are you suggesting to use this Supporting rail as a stop system?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on May 5, 2013 12:29:57 GMT -5
Yes I think personally the mfa fence is the best overall the rip fence only has the advantage of being able to fine tune but the cost I don't see being worth the extra. The stop system I'm refering to the fence guide extension 038392 203396 with a couple of drop stops 038306 which come in 1m lengths, you then join them using conecting pieces 038393 and supported on the adjustable legs or you could make a table matching height to the Erika and use that as a support. Then if you are going to be building stud wall all the same hight you can st the stop minus top and bottom runners. So you can make a pile of studs which the other joiner can come and pick from and safely know the first and last one are the same unless you keep whacking the stops the uk most joiners if they are dwanging (noggins) a ceiling will measure each piece individualy which is fine, but it means going up down up down which gets a bit boring especially if working on your own. What I do say if your centers are 600 will be minus the thickness timber say 50mm giving 550 dwangs cut the first one set a stop check its right with joists to achieve 600 then cut all the dwangs for 600 centers some will be too tight and others too loose but what happens is it all works it self out then on my first and last row I will cut the dwangs individualy adding on or minus what I need to make the the fist joist straight and same with the last space save going up and down all the time I realize you will work imperial sizes but the principal is the same
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