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Post by ssbothwell on Feb 25, 2014 21:56:26 GMT -5
i just purchased a DD40—my first mafell tool. i am extremely impressed with the build quality and the performance. my only gripe is the time it takes me to do test cuts to verify the bits are centered correctl on fractional stock.
i mainly am joining 1/2" and 3/4" boards using 1/4" dowels. i was wondering if any of you had any tips for setting up the DD40 for fractional offsets. i wish there was a fractional height adjustment turret. i would like to easily be able to switch from having it set to center the dowel whole on 3/8" to being centered on 1/4".
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 25, 2014 22:25:21 GMT -5
I believe there are center marks on either side of the dd40 you can use to line up to center marks on your stock. I'm sure the others will chime in with tips though. Welcome to the forum.
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Post by garch on Feb 25, 2014 22:49:54 GMT -5
Regarding turret presets( also see page 18 of the manual): 6.5mm is 1/4" 8mm is 5/16" 9.5mm is 3/8" 11mm is 7/16" 12.5mm is 1/2"
hope this is what you're looking for.
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Post by 7 on Feb 25, 2014 22:51:25 GMT -5
maybe a little cheesy but could you make a simple template with a piece of wood cut to 1/8" or plexi or something? If you are switching back and forth a lot it seems like you could leave the machine set for the thicker material then just slide the template in when switching to the thinner. You could possibly groove the template or add small sides to hold on lightly with friction for fast on/off. Unfortunately I don't own the DD40 so just thinking out loud. As Ghostfist mentioned there are several regulars on the forum who do own the machine that will comment.
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Post by jalvis on Feb 25, 2014 22:58:19 GMT -5
You are making it harder then it needs to be. Its not necessary for the dowel to be perfectly centered. Whats important is that you register the machine on the same sides and faces of the two boards that need to be flush.
The turret does allow for pre set depths. There is an adjustable screw on the turret and the stop that makes contact with the turret which is also an adjustable screw. Another option is to mill a shim in conjunction with an existing stop on the turret.
I'm yet to use the turret in fact and just eye ball for center.
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Post by ssbothwell on Feb 26, 2014 1:51:16 GMT -5
thanks garch and everyone else for the comments, i didnt realize fractional and metric divisions were so close. i guess i was over thinking things a bit.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 26, 2014 5:10:28 GMT -5
You are making it harder then it needs to be. Its not necessary for the dowel to be perfectly centered. Whats important is that you register the machine on the same sides and faces of the two boards that need to be flush. The turret does allow for pre set depths. There is an adjustable screw on the turret and the stop that makes contact with the turret is also an adjustable screw. Another option is to mill a shim in conjunction with an existing stop on the turret. I'm yet to use the turret in fact and just eye ball for center. Have to agree always go from the same face and everything should be flush on that side. I do use the turrets so if I had to change a setting and come back to it for some reason. Then I'm fairly confident that it should be the same
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Post by garch on Feb 26, 2014 20:35:14 GMT -5
You are making it harder then it needs to be. Its not necessary for the dowel to be perfectly centered. Whats important is that you register the machine on the same sides and faces of the two boards that need to be flush. The turret does allow for pre set depths. There is an adjustable screw on the turret and the stop that makes contact with the turret is also an adjustable screw. Another option is to mill a shim in conjunction with an existing stop on the turret. I'm yet to use the turret in fact and just eye ball for center. Have to agree always go from the same face and everything should be flush on that side. I do use the turrets so if I had to change a setting and come back to it for some reason. Then I'm fairly confident that it should be the same I like the way you think wrightwoodwork. You have a proper method for consistent joinery, this is also my typical workflow. We must have some reference for sake of repeatability. I also agree that dead center should not necessarily be extremely precise, but as in traditional joinery the rule of thirds for tenon thickness and in turn location (centered) should be the general goal. I find it too easy these days for power tool users to fly by the seat of their pants rather than understanding the basic principles at hand. I feel that everyone should apprentice with hand tools to grasp basic concepts prior to moving into the power tool world. ......Just my two cents.
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Post by jalvis on Feb 26, 2014 23:05:05 GMT -5
Perfectly centered is only necessary for certain applications. In furniture you will find many off set tenons all within varying degrees from center. Centered is really much easier with tenons since one can set dados and flip the stock.
Off centered tenons are common in antiques as well. One I commonly see is a single faced tenon where the tenon is flat on one side and cut on the other. Its basically a half lap thats fitted in a mortise.
If you are building cabinet doors and your 3/4" stock has dowels off center by 1mm or 2mm theres no difference than dead center. It comes down to application and its experience that will tell you when things are essential or not.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 27, 2014 8:16:28 GMT -5
Also when making a traditional mortise and tenon doors the mortises will be lined up with the corner of the rebate. Also when making modern casement windows which will be joined with a comb joint. One of the fingers will be referenced off the corner of a rebate again. I like to do things consistley the same so if I was making 10 cabinets all the same size. I want to be able to pick up any left and right gable and any top and bottom and know they will fit that is why I would also use the template guide
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