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Post by aas on Jan 1, 2017 4:12:42 GMT -5
Yep... either straight into the shaft, or into the quick release bit holder. May I ask what county your in? I'm in France, but despite almost everything being metric here, some things are imperial - 1/4" hex bits being one of them.
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Post by aas on Jan 1, 2017 4:18:38 GMT -5
Most customers I suspect believe that there's something inherently superior in a hammer drill version... Lighter weight wins every time for me - I use SDS for hard substrate. I do however have the Metabo 10,8v combi with percussion, as over here, lots of internal partition walls were built with hollow 50mm/2" bricks, and an SDS blows out the backs too easily, or blows the part being drilled into the void. A small lightweight percussion drill is a handy tool to keep in the toolbox.
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Post by huntsgemein on Jan 1, 2017 19:52:07 GMT -5
Yes, blowout is always a problem with big, powerful hammers. Not just in masonry, either. Spade bits, speedbores & augers in wood will damage the surrounds of exit holes. I try to stop as soon as the leading point penetrates through & finish off from the other side.
This is where those brilliant "multidrill" bits work well. As a smaller pilot bit/ non - impact starter bit to allow less damaging simultaneous SDS boring from both sides. For fixings in super-soft bricks (my past 2 homes are low fired clay soft convict brick) they're the only way to keep holes uniformly cylindrical. Their more aggressive tip geometry (there's no back relief of the cutting edge) means the carbide edge is correspondingly much "sharper", & when used slowly without impact has similar cutting characteristics in soft masonry to a jobber bit in steel or timber.
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Post by aas on Jan 2, 2017 3:16:21 GMT -5
The problem here are these fragile bricks. Even taking care, with a light weight cordless SDS it will blow out into the cavity so the plug won't hold, and even if the drill bit has stopped turning and taps the back of the cavity it will blow out the other side of the partition.
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Post by huntsgemein on Jan 2, 2017 15:46:19 GMT -5
It depends of course on what you're mounting or attaching, by when fitting metal attachments to masonry I've found that shallower holes work well. The Swiss manufacturer Hilti & Germany's Fisher both make a range of specialist plugs, bolts, nails & physical & chemical anchors. Of particular use to me we're Hilti's smallest 5 mm plugs that required a hole only 99/100" x 1/5" which can be directly fitted onto the mounting screws and tapped THROUGH the fitting to be mounted. For much of my commercial & industrial installation work these proved an exceptionally useful solution. The short length & narrow diameter of these plugs ensured an incredibly secure expansive anchor in even the most reluctant masonry substrates which belies their small size.
For heavier or thicker superstructural mounting to masonry there's always the possibility of diamond core drilling mounting holes to retain the required cylindrical dimension, with sprung loaded turnbuckle or winged butterfly fittings or even elongated expansive plasterboard type fittings to allow for positive anchorage on the reverse face of the substrate. Much slower and consequently much more expensive, but retaining all the original strength of the original masonry.
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Post by jimbouk on Jan 2, 2017 15:51:34 GMT -5
Alternative tecnique.
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