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Post by aas on May 25, 2022 13:04:07 GMT -5
I'm lucky to have both of these and see the question coming up on why choose one over the other. It depends on the work you are mainly doing.
For working with sheet material, i.e. building cabinets, shelving, build-ins, etc., I would recommend the DDF40. It's reference off the flat base combined with the well thought out accessories make it very easy to learn to use and provides extreme precision. I have used it for a few builds now, using 19mm melamine board edged with 2mm ABS (using the Hit-M bander). I use the Mafell toothed rail for indexing where possible so sets of dowel holes across a large board line up perfectly, referencing off the back edge - the verticals are cut 2mm wider than the tops and bottoms, this means in the corners, the vertical edge 2mm round over lines up with the edge banding for the horizontal pieces. It's also perfect for using with the Lamello Zeta P2 and the Divario fittings for invisible slide in shelves - much easier that with the DD40P.
For working with timber section, i.e. small to medium frames, solid wood joining, etc., I would recommended the DD40P. It's easier to use off a pencil mark for framework, with the fence swung down to 90 degrees. I recently had some large cupboard frames to build and install, wood sized up on the Erika, a quick sand with the Eva, then loaded the wood up to take up the mountain. Was pretty tired and wasn't sure of the best way of assembling the frame on site - took the DDF40, DD40P and Domino DF500 with me just in case - ended up using the DD40P - it was so simple, set the plunge depth, drilled using the pins as reference and pencil lines for the rest. I had debated selling the DD40P when I purchased the DDF40 - but it so much easier to use on timber, I'll keep it. I have used this with the Mafell toothed rail too, I only have the short rail for now.
If I could only have one, I would keep the DDF40 - it really excels in sheet material work, it can be used for small framing work too - it fits in better with my workflow. Your mileage may vary...
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Post by Knight Woodworks on May 29, 2022 16:19:07 GMT -5
Thanks that was helpful. I'm sure it will be a valuable resource for many.
I bought a DD40P and both rails several years ago. Got it for building casework on site as it can do both the joinery and shelf pin holes in one tidy package. Unfortunately, I've pretty much given up using it for the construction holes and use it for the system holes exclusively.
The problem is accuracy and lack of adjustment. Seems like a strange problem I realize. Referencing pencil lines I get an occasional misalignment. Maybe one out of five boxes is off by a small amount, perhaps half a millimeter or less. Easily fixable but annoying. Using the rails takes too long. Currently I'm using the Domino for the joinery and the DD for the 5 mm holes.
If I wasn't saving my pennies for a Zeta I'd seriously consider the DDF40.
John
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Post by aas on May 30, 2022 12:59:44 GMT -5
The Zeta is 'OK' - it depends what you want to do with it. Tenso are good for glue ups, but your cuts better be spot on or they don't have the strength to really pull together. Clamex are good for knock down, but can be prone to sliding in the grooves so really need an additional location fixing like dowels. Where it really shines is the Divario for hidden shelf fixings, it's worth buying for that alone if you're doing build-ins... but then ideally you would pair it with a DDF40 for doing the side panel holes for the Divario.
I found the DD rail very quick and simple to use. Make up a couple of offset blocks so dropping the rail down is quick, accurate and repeatable.
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jun 27, 2022 7:12:38 GMT -5
A belated thank you. Appreciate the information on the Zeta.
I typically set and use a combination square rails. Stop blocks are a good idea. I’ll give it a try.
Thanks,
John
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Post by aas on Jun 27, 2022 15:28:24 GMT -5
I use stop blocks for so many things - making up cabinets and I make a set of blocks to align the back of the rail for heights, depths etc., a few scraps of wood and CA glue or screws - if you're worried about your accuracy, make them a bit longer than required and nudge up with the mitre saw trimming them to the exact length.
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