MKS 130 Ec

The lip on the parallel guide slots into the extruded section of the protractor. It doesn't just butt against it. 

I use the MKS with both types of Mafell tracks. The f style you are all familiar with and then there are the heavier duty tracks that are not compatible  with the smaller saws. I have the 3m 200672 track that I use with the MKS, Z5, ZSX, and ksp85. The saws are much more stable with the larger track, so I choose which track type to use based on application. 

Hmmm…..I have the MT55 "Parallel Guide Fence"(#203214) and it looks identical to the KSP and MKS models. I think its compatible with the Protractor.

The universal guide support 202069 (ie protractor) would probably be compatible with all mafell tools which have a parallel guide fence.  Not sure as I haven't used it with my smaller saws, as the F-WA is more suited for those applications.  The universal guide support would be unwieldy to use with the smaller saws in my opinion.  I'm curious now and will have to check next time I'm in the shop.

Now as for the 3m guide rail 200672, I'm pretty sure the smaller saws would not work without modification, unless you would just butt the guide against the guide rail.  Parallel guides on the KSP85, MKS, Z5, and ZSX are different from the MT 55 and have holes that allow the adapters 037195, to connect the parallel guide to the guide rail.

I'll have to post pictures when time allows.

As a residential remodeler, this class of saw seems like it would be handy for certain tasks, such as resawing posts and beams, as well as cross cutting deck posts.

Recently, I got a call from a customer for whom I installed a pressure treated post in her basement. Over the last year, the post has developed some very minor cracking, but more importantly (for her), it has twisted, approximately 1/4". Ultimately, we agreed that I will replace the treated 4x6 post with a PSL post. I selected the PSL since it should never twist or crack. The lumber yard sold me a 4x8 post that I dimensioned to 3.5"x5.5". To rip the beam from 7.25" to 5.5", I used my KSS-400 with the 16 tooth ripping blade on my F-tracks, ripping one side to maximum depth, then flipped the beam and cut from the other side. I was BLOWN AWAY by the quality of the cut!! I've attached a photo, you can form your own opinion. 

So, for the VERY occasional application like this I suppose that I could keep using the KSS-400, but, ultimately, I keep thinking it would be nice to have one of the MKS saws.

The K 85/KSS-80 cuts just less ( 3 7/16") than a nominal 4x material (3 1/2"+), plus I'd lose some additional depth when cutting on a track. Otherwise the K 85/KSS-80 would be perfect. 


The MKS 130 seems like the next best size. 5 1/8" depth of cut, so it can easily rip and cross cut 4x material, and process 6x material in 2 passes. For the amount of wear I would impose, the machine should last the rest of my career (30+ years to go!), just a matter of finding the correct project to justify the purchase...... Whoa, slow down there Tom, Erika and P1cc first, then MKS....... 

You would definitely enjoy the MKS 130. I love mine for exactly the type of task you mention. Makes life much easier. Not cheap though!



Keep in mind the load you're pulling on your circuits. I've calculated the load and run in order to size wiring and breakers and plugs in our shop. You won't be able to just plug into your standard outlet and start cutting away.  A bigger task to get the electrical set up than many people may imagine. I think I ran 6ga to the wall outlet for the MKS and the twist lock plug is rated for 30 amps.  I'd have to look to verify.  110versions require higher amperage than 220 versions obviously.  We also made up heavy gauge extensions both 220 and 110 for our different mafell big boys. 

Electrical is definitely something to take into consideration with the larger saws, drills, etc. 

Excellent point regarding the electrical requirements!

My "shop" is actually a mini-storage unit (11'x25') where I park my Sprinter overnight, and sometimes use as a work shop during the daytime. The electrical system is shared with the rest of the building, so if I pop a breaker I don't necessarily have access to the panel. Therefore, I only use the utility power for my lighting, and rely on a 5500 watt Honda generator to power my tools. It has a 30amp twist lock outlet and ability to deliver both 120 and 240 power. I occasionally bring it on-site as well if it's a really old house with suspect wiring, or if I'm planning on using energy-hungry equipment like my Hilti demolition hammer.