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Post by newuser on Mar 10, 2021 1:48:37 GMT -5
Yep that video is a bad exemplar as the rail has to be suspended, but as I said the topic pic was taken with rail completely flat on the work surface and it still cut like that. Another small example here, again the rail isn’t fully supported by stock but do have another piece further down (this is the one I measured with calipers above). I just don’t have thick and wide pieces of lumber to test with unfortunately.  |
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Post by alvychippy on Mar 10, 2021 3:01:05 GMT -5
Yep that video is a bad exemplar as the rail has to be suspended, unfortunately. I give up 😐 |
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Post by kraftt on Mar 10, 2021 16:13:45 GMT -5
Out of curiosity are you using two joined rails?
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Post by newuser on Mar 11, 2021 4:11:38 GMT -5
No, that is my recently created 8XXmm rail from the damaged 1600. I have another 1600 rail that performs the same. Sending saw in to be looked at now.
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Post by kraftt on Mar 11, 2021 11:31:45 GMT -5
maybe don't mention taking base off etc. even though it was after the fact.
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Post by aas on Mar 11, 2021 13:55:33 GMT -5
Just had a quick look at the two videos you posted - this is the sort of setup I would do if I needed to do a rough cut and couldn't be bothered to get the proper tool for the job. I hear what you're saying that even when the rail is fully supported it does the same thing, but a video of that would be good... because what you've shown is a 14cm rail which has two non-slip strips - being supported by the first 2cm or so of the rail with just one non-slip strip touching the wood - I'd expect rough cuts using the saw like that.
The MT55 is a panel saw... if you can't get the rail completely on the material - you are already out of the limits of what it was designed for. Don't get me wrong, I do the same sort of thing sometimes - maybe forgotten to bring the right tool to the job, etc., but seeing the rail flexing around on two after-market posts with just the edge of the rail hanging on to the wood for dear life... well put it this way - the cuts aren't too bad considering!
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Post by kraftt on Mar 12, 2021 8:29:50 GMT -5
with regards to raising rails with dogs… I suppose any twist in table top from an uneven floor, diy hand drilled mft holes (not this situation) etc. will only exaggerate any dog angles (between each other, above plane) the higher the rail is stilted, which transfers twist to bolted rail.
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Post by newuser on Mar 23, 2021 3:05:20 GMT -5
Ok got saw back at weekend. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, except to say that with the 52 tooth blade they did see some angling of cuts when doing rip cuts, but not with the 32 blade they recommended. I immediately cut some 30mm wood and it was straight so was pleased. But yesterday cut my good 25mm oak stock I had been planning to make into a panel, and later on noticed many cuts that were angular. I am beginning to conclude based on comments here that the saw was not as forgiving with cuts as I had believed it to be, likely as most of my cuts were on quite thin, wide stock. Also the oak I was cutting was warping, and I was not able to clamp it down fully so that may have contributed to the errors. Additionally I had some confusion over the guide dogs. When I first got them I used them horizontally (as in, both horizontal to each other in the left and right under slot) and after the accident this no longer worked, the bolt lookedf slightly bent. However new bolts didn't help, and I am now thinking that I actually forced these guides in as the distance between rails is further than the 96mm of the holes. So I was trying to alter between horizontal positional further along (which can skew rail I now see) and vertical placement festool style, which isn't really as good as rail can more easily tip to one side. Anyway this is latest setup pic for cut, this is my only good saw as well.   |
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Post by aas on Mar 23, 2021 14:05:16 GMT -5
Take a piece of paper and line it up with each edge of your work bench on the photo on your screen... it's straight, now do the same with the rail - it's not straight. I checked this as I could see a great bulge in the rail...
Your rail needs to be flat, you can't hope to get a perfect cut with a less than perfect set up.
Asides from that major point... you are over complicating your setup.
Let's say you have some 75mm x 25mm wood you want to rip... lay 2 next to each other and the rail will neatly lay on top of them. It's 50mm wide?.. put 3x next to each other and you will have proper support for the rail... the wood's not even or the same thickness?.. run it through a thicknesser - you can't expect the rail to sit correctly on uneven wood.
Try working on your technique - get the rail flat and stop messing around with dogs!.. you will thank yourself in the long run if ever you need to do a 45 degree rip with a setup like that. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
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Post by kraftt on Mar 23, 2021 23:03:41 GMT -5
Try toowa clampa mora lika theesa:  |
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Post by newuser on Mar 24, 2021 23:44:30 GMT -5
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Post by aas on Mar 25, 2021 6:11:07 GMT -5
I replied in the other thread, the Bessey clamps are for Festool rails...
The screw clamps are the best!
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Post by newuser on Mar 25, 2021 9:02:43 GMT -5
The brochure says they work on Bosche, also can go up to 8mm and Mafell is 7.5?
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Post by aas on Mar 25, 2021 13:33:14 GMT -5
Bosch do two different types of rail, it's talking about the other one... for Festool style clamps.
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Post by newuser on Mar 25, 2021 14:07:04 GMT -5
😣 didn’t know that Tried another cut today, this time thick 45 x 120. Spent a lot of time making sure wood was clamped down to eliminate bends and cut it mid point to allow some to sit under rail for support:  no deviations at all, granted it was just the ends of the wood but definitely showing a completely straight cut with great alignment for dowels vertically. |
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