Mafell Routers: LO 50 E and LO 65 Ec

In this pic I show you guys the use of my LO65Ec parallel guide with my LO50E. Notice the fine-adjustment at my LO50E.



The LO65Ec parallell guide is much better then the very simple original one.

I have a bunch of festool as well, some I like some I don't. I don't own a mafell router but I do have the of1010 and am very happy with it. If you were in North America I would recommend it over the mafell simply because it's readily available here. However it is designed for festool by mafell and I expect, though can't say through first hand experience, that it's on par with every other mafell tool I own. Which means superior build quality and performance. Since you're European based, online orders or not, it's much more readily available to you. So I'm gonna say, go for the mafell. My only gripe with the 1010 is how your vacuum hose attaches to it. The port is oblong which means you have to crush your hose into the shape of the opening. I've had it pop off a few times while routing. Not the same with the mafell.

I agree with GhostFists recommendation. I am also in North America & also have the OF1010 and like it, I have never had the hose pop off mine but the elongated connection is a bit strange. You may want to take my liking of the OF1010 with a grain of salt though because I also have the Festool RO90DX sander and really like it. I typically use it with specific tasks in mind, like paint prep, but I have used it a lot. I don't use it on the rotex mode just because I don't need it to be that aggressive for sanding spackling etc.

I am curious- what do you dislike about the RO90? I have considered buying the Domino XL so I am also curious about your assessment of it too if you are able.

Northern Italy, along a goat track half way up a mountain!- Sounds like a very cool place, are you hiring?

Hi Jason and welcome to the forum

I've actually asked my dealer what the differences are between the Festool and Mafell, some time ago.
From what I was told the Mafell LO50 is based of an older Festool model, but he suspects there are differences in the internal components used between the Mafell and Festool.

Like others have said, the dust port on the Festool is a small and weirdly shaped. It's also cast as part of the base. On the Mafell the dust port is bigger and the dust collection works better. Therefore alone I would choose the Mafell LO50.

There's also some other differences in terms of the motor speeds. According to my dealer the motor runs noticably smoother and also the plunge action is also smoother on the Mafell.

Is it true or not, I don't know. Perhaps there are other users on the forum who actually own both machines and can deny or confirm these claims?

In any case I would go with Mafell. I simply trust them more than I do Festool.

I read you have a Bosch GOF 1600. So do I, but I'm not really happy with the plunge base. Could you tell me if your plunge base also has some play in the plunge movement?

All of this isn't to say the of1010 is a crappy tool. Imo it's miles better than the majority of routers in its size range. It's closest competition is the mafell.

Hi Folks.

Thankyou so much for all of your idea's and advice. I have to say, I was leaning towards the LO50, but never having used a pistol grip, could you tell me is the balance ok? The design would suggest it would be a bit tippy... Also I have to say I agree with you all about that dust extraction port!

7. My biggest grumble with the RO90DX, is it weight distribution and the aggressive nature when on high setting. This is the only sander I have known, where I have to get a new drivers licence to steer the bloody thing! You have to press down really quite hard if you want to keep it on track. But also when you the put the dust hose on, it's virtually impossible to sand flat surfaces as it drags down the back of the sander! Before I got my Mafell UVA115 I watched a video where a guy steered it with one finger. I thought that can't be true... But I did the test and sure enough one finger will direct it. Obviously it's for a different application, but in my opinion you should not have to wrestle with it either. It's a shame, it's small, good features, fairly ergonomic, but the weight distribution is franky terrible, in my opinion, if that counts for anything. The aggressive nature could be toned down, by not using the high setting and maybe finer sandpaper, but why should you have to do that, when it was designed for so much more.

The domino DF700. I only have one grumble with this one, but it's quite a serious one. As an idea and machine it's brilliant, I have my whole set up around it, it is my core machine. Yes it's a bit heavy, sometimes the plunge action gets a bit stiff, but considering the length of tennons it can do, it copes pretty well. Now the bad part.
If I buy a heavy duty SDS drill/Breaker I get in the box a tub of grease, especially at a high price point. The domino DF700 is at a high price point.The cutter has a thread and shoulder to fix to the spindle. I understand the engineers decided on this approach as you have a high rotational speed and you are pushing against the cutter. But it binds. Just like on an angle grinder, it self tightens. I have never put any real force when putting in a new cutter, but when I went to change my bit, it was so tight the spindle lock broke! On the spindle where the cutter screws onto, it is squared off, for maybe another spanner, i.e. One on the cutter One on the spindle. This is at the correct point to unscrew it should it bind, not way down where the motor connects to the spindle. There is not One provided in the box, and in the instructions it does not mention a second spanner. I have read on the FOG forum, people experiencing the same issue. So now I have ground down a spanner, and use two spanners when changing my bit. But had Festool provided a tub of graphite grease, then maybe my spindle lock would not of broke. Also when you look at the exploded drawing of the Domino, the spindle lock itself is just a small, thin device, not a nice solid pin that dives through the shaft.

Please feel free to comment, if you think I'm either strange, mad, or both! I would like to hear if other people have had a different solution.

Otherwise this is a fantastic machine, this tool works a treat, if you are careful changing the bit, it definitely is a time and space saver, with strong reliable joints. I will be buying another one, as a back-up, now I know what you must do!

GhostFist. The little CXS Drill is probably the best 10.8v on the market today, it's a great price of kit. A few additional things would maybe be nice, but generally very good. It has some sophistication, superb balance and excellent for fitting drawer runners and getting into very awkward spots, I like it a lot.

But..... When I put a bit in my metabo max12 drills my bit doesn't drop out of the Chuck!!! These are also 10.8v and small, but have no sophistication, but good for site work. Also they cost a fraction of what the CXS costs. So why is it, that Mr and Mrs Festool provide me, with what is a quite an expensive little drill, the worst Chuck in the world!!!! It does not tighten!!!! I read on the FOG, that other people were moaning about this very issue, I think someone suggested to buy a Protool chuck as a solution, as I can't remember, but I think it has a ratchet. If I buy a brand new, expensive drill, why should I have to replace the most important part on the drill, I mean please, come on..... Originally I was going to go for C15, but after reading what they said on the forums, I decided I would indeed give Festool a go, but was not prepaired to spend so much. The chuck is rubbish.

jonathan. I checked my Bosch GOF1600 (sorry I mentioned before GMF)in the shop today with the plunge base. I could find no discernable flex or movement. Should it move as much as you are saying, then there is obviously a fault, they could not put the machine on the market, if it was so inaccurate. May I suggest you or your dealer look at the guide bushes, maybe they are incorrectly fitted, broken or worn out.

While I'm moaning about everything in the world of tools... One grumble with the above router, the cable fitted to mine! I thought, stupidly, that in this professional industry, rubberized power cable of approximately 4Mtrs length, were included with the tool! I have on mine, a cable that barely moves. I fully understand more juice requires thicker cable, but, one that doesn't flex...

On another post, I will explain my workshop along a goat track half way up a mountain. My post heading should be, how to do business in Italy. Let me just say One thing. I am originally from the UK, born and bred, where things generally work. Here in Italy they have three speeds. Slow, stop and reverse. They just can't to go, at any speed! Trying to set up any business with this mentality is very hard. Maybe I should change my forum name, to Mr Grumble. Sorry Guys.

As this is rather a long post, please forget some, and let me know on how the LO50 handles.

Jason.

Thanks wrightwoodwork. As you say, if you haven't used this type of grip before, it could be a little daunting. Normally a lower centre of gravity results in a more stable machine, normally I like my handles lower, but if in your experience it has a natural feel, then you can't go wrong with that. If a tool feels good in the hands, it's not only a pleasure to use, but inspires confidence and quality. I have to also agree with you regarding the plastic bits. The main casings on the Festools (metal and plastic) seam to be of a better quality than the green bits.the problem is that these bits are the most important parts in my view. Everything down to just a thumbscrew on the Mafell, as you said, seams to be of better quality. I'm still leaning towards the Mafell. From my own experience from what I own of Mafell, solid fittings give you confidence that things won't break, fall off, and at least last as long as the guarantee. My tools are getting heavy use, if they last me 3 or 5years then I will be happy. Decisions decisions...