iban
Full Member
Posts: 111
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Post by iban on Oct 26, 2020 6:53:23 GMT -5
How do you guys prevent anti tip when bevel cutting? Last day I used my mt55 for bevels for the first time and found it quite anoying. I ended using the paralel guide as a base prolongator and a piece of wood to match the thickness but...that wasent nice neither...
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Post by kraftt on Oct 26, 2020 9:11:56 GMT -5
That's a great solution. I once went to the lengths to make this thing but I think most just use steady thumb pressure to get it done.
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Post by alvychippy on Oct 26, 2020 15:03:28 GMT -5
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Post by alvychippy on Oct 28, 2020 17:34:54 GMT -5
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Post by huntsgemein on Oct 28, 2020 19:26:34 GMT -5
Looks like summat that could be easily & inexpensively user-made.
Not that I'm denigrating the talents & entrepreneurship of the original maker, but it seems like somewhat dubious "value" @ some 45 Quid when it could be so easily made from scrap & offcuts of either timber or aluminium!
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Post by kraftt on Oct 28, 2020 19:38:07 GMT -5
Though it is mafell grade quality, by default. Besides being able to fine tune the fit I also like learning that you can stabilize bevel cuts from the left side with the fence - never thought of that. I think it's a natural.
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iban
Full Member
Posts: 111
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Post by iban on Nov 1, 2020 10:44:13 GMT -5
The wafell looks nice except when you have to use two linked tracks How did you cut the bevel and the grove in the policarbonate- manually with a router???
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Post by kraftt on Nov 1, 2020 15:54:16 GMT -5
Yes, for long cuts using joined rail, using up the joiner slot for an accessory limits useable distance. The bevel (60º? can’t remember) was done on a table saw sandwiched in a down’n’dirty mdf jig. The notched groove was done with router IIRC, hand held upside down / free air with a mini fence screwed to base I think - snuck up on depth. I may have also snuck up on the exact width by later re-trimming the 60º bevel. All smoke & mirrors / kludged. I get impatient with these experiments and just want to get something close to discover any in use problems I can’t foresee. When they work I just leave them as is and call it a day. For the purpose of cutting 45º bevels the main benefit (to me) of either mimicking a Bosch / mafell rail joiner in polycarbonate, or just drilling and countersinking the existing steel joiner, is to protect the saw itself from falling to ground unattended / if you needed to or suddenly had to let go at the end of the cut. Of course the rail has to be clamped for all this to work. I don’t like using the MT55 off it’s rails so I don’t own the accessory fence, but BBB’s catamaran used on the motor side of saw piqued my curiosity and I started on an overkill version borrowing the handle from a concrete hand float. I was interested to see if there was some physical / psychological advantage (lower stress) to having a handle to grab while bevel cutting instead of just pressing on base of saw. While it makes more sense to use the catamaran on the blade side, so you can cut one handed, I did try it with my diy MT-PA catamaran and noticed some slight flex (in my case). I attributed this to the rear of the base on the MT55 having a plastic clip to capture extension rod after the screw clamp - but there’s no additional clip upfront. On a job site I can’t as easily create support on the blade side so my experiment is biased towards wanting something exclusive to the motor side. Setting up on the motor side has both extension rods pushing down on the base (edge) of the saw, as they exit, after being captured by the screw clamps - two points of contact. May be one reason why BBB mentioned liking this method (?) It worked well, but everything I tried - aluminum, hdpe, mdf, etc. - was sticky on the exterior grade mdf (Extira) I was experimenting on. Not sure what they put in this stuff but only Polycarb & Fiberglass seemed to slide well enough so I used structural tube fiberglass. The considerations here for me are I don’t want to mark / burnish expensive facing (in those less often situations) and the mafell doesn’t need any added resistance sliding especially cutting bevels. BBB’s simple solution avoids this when set up on the blade side allowing cutting one handed, looks easy to store, is adjustable and if you were worried about any burnishing when set up on motor side a strip of clear packing tape on the bottom of aluminum should instantly solve this (while being slippery). But if I was going to bevel cut two handed, other than being more comfortable, I didn’t find my handle catamaran version to be that much different from placing my free hand on the saw base (two fingers on thumb grip and thumb pressing near back adjustment dial). Cutting long bevels with the ‘wafell’ I would still want to use my free hand to put downwards pressure on the base of saw out of concern of a clamped rail possibly twisting up or tilting.
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