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Post by taylorkitchens on Jan 14, 2014 13:04:24 GMT -5
Hey guys, well it's ordered and arrives Monday. My question is what is the best/ cleanest cutting blade when it comes to laminated boards ie kitchens? Got an extra mafell 48T blade at a horrific £63 :/ what other good blades are there?
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Post by neth27 on Jan 14, 2014 14:22:32 GMT -5
I use the Festool blades with my MT55, they have a blade made for laminates. If I'm cutting chipboard flooring i use a cheap Trend blade.
John...
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Post by taylorkitchens on Jan 14, 2014 14:23:40 GMT -5
Is that just there 160mm 48t blade? Or a specific festool one?
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Post by neth27 on Jan 14, 2014 14:27:42 GMT -5
There is a specific one but its nearly twice the price.. I would just use the standard Festool blade, about £38ish..
john..
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 14, 2014 14:29:35 GMT -5
Not sure what the best blade would be. When I tried the mt55 using the scoring function I was amazed. It's like you have put the panel through a panel saw with a scoring blade. A lot of people seem to use tenyru blades I don't know what they are like and where to get. Leitz do special offers at times just have to look out for them. You will now have a couple of blades I would also get a 24 tooth blade doesn't have to be mafell I have mafell blades and find them good quality. What I do when mine gets blunt I take it to get sharpened. Cost somewhere between 8-15 depending on number of teeth I think is well worth doing you have good quality blades that will last I still have the original blade I got with my saw 2 years ago and have had it sharpened a few times. The cheap blades aren't the same the steel is a lower grade. Will be thicker produce extra load on the machine where the mafell blades gave a thinner kerf as do festool and others
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Post by jonathan on Jan 14, 2014 14:36:56 GMT -5
Yes, like wrightwoodwork said, watch out with other brand blades. Not just for the quality, but also for the different kerf width. Thicker kerf width blades will cut away more off the rubber edge of your guide rails. Then when you switch back to a thinner kerf blade, the rubber edge will no longer be dead on. The ideal is to try and have all your blades have the same kerf width.
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Post by taylorkitchens on Jan 14, 2014 14:55:10 GMT -5
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of, but didn't think of what Aaron's said about getting them resharpened. I normally buy cordless trim saw blades and just buy new as it's about £3 more for my cordless hilti. But i have 2 mafell blades so think I may get a third n just get them resharpened Good call
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Post by neth27 on Jan 14, 2014 14:59:51 GMT -5
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of, but didn't think of what Aaron's said about getting them resharpened. I normally buy cordless trim saw blades and just buy new as it's about £3 more for my cordless hilti. But i have 2 mafell blades so think I may get a third n just get them resharpened Good call I have a few rails, i use the festool blades with Bosch rails, and a Mafell blade with the Mafell rails.. I also like you have the Hilti cordless saw, i have the 22v and the 36v and use them with a Makita rail.. John..
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 14, 2014 20:01:23 GMT -5
Ya blades aren't meant to be just tossed, good quality ones can be re-sharpened and certainly reccomended. I'm lucky, where I work they cover sharpening, but it's not that expensive
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Post by 7 on Jan 14, 2014 20:35:52 GMT -5
+ another 1 for resharpening. I have made flawless cuts in laminate and melamine using the scoring function just as others have mentioned.
I still remember my first cut in melamine using the scoring function. I was shocked and commented that it was absolutely flawless and asked the guy who was working with me if he could see a single chip/imperfection. He looked and said "no I can't but I guarantee my girlfriend would be able to".
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Post by SICristea on Jun 14, 2014 3:41:16 GMT -5
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