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Post by Woodyo_o on Sept 8, 2020 3:18:48 GMT -5
Hi all,
I finally bought my maximax.
Noticed it wasnt cutting square on some 18mm birch ply.
I did some more cuts on some melamine and then I noticed when the blade is fully depressed down to 55mm and holding a 6inch engineers square to it it was out 1.5mm. It was hard up to the grub screw stops. I adjust the two grubs using a vernier (depth stop) and got it closer. However upon closer inspection it appears the base is bowed. Width wise it has a .75mm of a curviture to it. Making it impossible to square up the blade using a engineers square.
Anyone else have/had this issue?
I reached out to the company I bought it from and this was there response.
"The base plate is completely in tolerance, even if we send a new machine it could be the same. Both, from Mafell and from our repair service I got the answer that this “bowed” base plate is not influencing the cutting quality, because on the left end and on the right end the base plate is laying on the wood. The other way, if the base plate would have be bowed in the middle, would be a problem. Is he using the guide (MA204749)? If he his saying, that he can´t make a straight cut, it may have to do with something else. Please ask your client for photos of the cut and maybe also a short video, where we can see that he is using this Mafell tool and the cut is not getting straight.”
Any thoughts?
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Post by kraftt on Sept 8, 2020 10:55:45 GMT -5
The bases usually wear first at the corners / high spots. I’ll assume if mafell wanted the base dead flat they would have painted first and machined after or machined and masked. Since it is a track saw, intended primarily to be run on smooth rails, I would register it to that. Maybe take a piece of two sided melamine, clamp sheet to overhang enough to get your square to rest on the underside unobstructed. Place a rail on the top side of melamine and lay saw in place (so blade just misses edge and can plunge freely). (ideally I would remove the plunge return spring before hand - it’s simple to do). Next plunge the blade to max depth and check 90º from underside of melamine (or any flat-on-both-sides material). Again removing the plunge spring will make this method much easier and more accurate as hand pressure could conceivably compress rail grip ribs unevenly. I suppose the ultimate final test is to cut two pieces of some soft thick homogenous material and then flip and mate them together on a flat surface to gauge end results of cuts.
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rob2
New Member
Posts: 40
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Post by rob2 on Sept 8, 2020 11:39:06 GMT -5
Although you start by mentioning MaxiMAX (doweler?) it seems your question is about track saw.
I see this all the time when users try to square the blade to the base and get frustrated. Forget that. Not only the base has no good reference surface, it rides on the rail with flexible strips underneath, which compress when you plunge. The way to square the saw is to make a test cut in thick flat homogeneous material (MDF is ideal), measure the results, and adjust bevel (and pointer) accordingly.
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Post by aas on Sept 8, 2020 12:13:03 GMT -5
I put the rail on some wood, plunge the saw to maximum and check the square underneath the wood to the blade without touching the teeth, you want to be against the blade plate. The rest doesn't matter - I haven't checked mine for flat or square bases - do like this and it will be perfect. It doesn't matter if the base is bent and gliding down the track on all 4 corners, what matters is what I described. Try it out and let us know how you get on.
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iban
Full Member
Posts: 111
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Post by iban on Sept 22, 2020 9:15:57 GMT -5
My mt55 wasn't square straight from the factory (alvychippy realised from a couple of images I posted). Today after slighty tweaking the 2 adjustment plate screws I got a quite good square cuts. I also compensate the angle arrow with another hidden screw (I love how adjustable this tool is).
Tried again with melamine and scoring and very satisfied. The blade was a bosch 24 teeth and no chipping at all. It was brand new yes, but 24 teeth! Hope I'd made a cople of photos...
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Post by Woodyo_o on Oct 5, 2020 6:58:54 GMT -5
Sorry its been a while, but I've contacted the dealer after doing all they suggested and am awaiting there response.
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Post by Woodyo_o on Oct 5, 2020 7:14:39 GMT -5
Also, thanks for the tips and suggestions. I have adjusted the base plate screws, about 1mm so far and am still .2mm to .3mm of a bevel. (The angle pointrr is way off 'zero' more like half a degree) What gets me is that I purchased this saw because its supposed to the leader of all the track saws. I'd understand that if after a while it beveled (due to wear on the base plate) sure I'd adjusted the screws. But straight out of the box... and at the price I paid over $1100aud, plus tax. Kick in the guts really. Some people who I know, there saw was dead on out of the box so why the discrepancy in quality? Anyway will keep trying to tune it up.
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Post by kraftt on Oct 5, 2020 8:03:45 GMT -5
fwiw - there is a deep recessed screw to adjust the pointer on the bevel gauge.
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Post by holmz on Oct 5, 2020 16:29:01 GMT -5
One could always lap it on a peice of float glass with some sandpaper...
It would take some time, but it is regularly done in machine circles.
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