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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 14:50:41 GMT -5
 freeimage.host/i/d62SDbThe 2 knobs for tightning the saw to the rail are stuck. Really tight. That tight that I can only turn them with pliers. I managed to loose them a little with the help of a few drops of wd40 and force them to turn with pliers. Any idea on what can help? I registered the saw to get 3 years warranty. Perhaps is time to start using it There's star drive (torx) crew on the other side to adjust knob tension. It goes like you release the torx, turn knob until it becomes tight, back up 1/4 and tighten the torx screw  |
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 15:04:13 GMT -5
OP is only starting, so initial concerns are sheet "breaking", making joints and trimming etc where too aggressive angle or too few of teeth number blades *AND too thin* Freud aren't great at all. For such I'd say get perfectly sized Trend CraftMaster blades, be them carbide simply weaker, than quality blades we talked about.
Funny how we tradespeople form different impressions of certain blades and tools.
I don't feel the Freud blades I've mentioned are too thin (1.3mm plate, 1.7mm kerf)
1.7mm - 1.3mm = 0.4mm
0.4mm / 2 = 0.2mm offset
 Mafell standard blade 1.8 kerf, 1.2 plate thickness:
1.8mm - 1.2mm = 0.6mm
0.6mm / 2 = 0.3mm offset.
Therefore, the 40T Freud blade in question has a 0.1mm thicker plate than the Mafell blade, and has only a 0.1mm tooth offset discrepancy with the splinter guard, which, by your own admission, is negligible for most tasks. (perhaps we are talking about different Freud blades)
The hook angle is the only significant downside that I can see, considering the low price.
(100% agreed, whilst for normal MDF or wood sharper angles increases cut speed, quality don't suffer)
As for the 162mm dia Trend blade, before I made the decision to modify my saw to accept 165mm blades, I was actually using these for a while (https://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/post/18589/thread), and I was quite enthusiastic at finding 162mm blades for sensible money, but I soon afterwards concluded that the Trend 162mm blades are low quality for a low price, with tiny fragments of low-grade carbide, and too much blade deflection, whereas Freud's immense scale of production permits European quality at a medium-low price, hence I abandoned the Trend blades and have been with Freud (for the majority of tasks) ever since. I still use Mafell blades for critical tasks, and if only they weren't so expensive, I'd use them almost all the time (other than for specialist tasks requiring non-standard tooth profiles).
I'm glad you like the Trend blades (as I briefly did, too), but I won't ever go back to them. (nope, they are economy solution, I don't like them for going blunt too quick, but I certainly appreciate their price being fair and being perfect size blade for MT55)
I've been using Trend products for nearly 3 decades - mostly on the routing side of things. They've always overcharged for their products, but tradespeople have tolerated it because, in the early days, they were notable for their innovation, and that innovation could help tradespeople get jobs done, and thus recoup the tooling costs. In more recent years, though, I think Trend have been trading far too much on their name, with decreasing legitimacy to their high prices, within the context of an increasingly competitive marketplace. Like so many other companies (including powertool manufacturers), they have seemingly looked to the far east to bolster their product range with lower grade items that they can try to achieve high margins on, just by slapping their badge on it, since it carries a reputation earned many years ago, when they were producing products to a high standard.
Ultimately, it's the customer that loses out. Their 162mm blade isn't 'overpriced' as such, but it is below-par quality, in my opinion. It's very similar to Shark Blades products. I have several Trend 12.7mm kitchen worktop router cutters, and the variation in quality is extremely apparent, after using them, even though they were all sold as being trade quality, not for the DIY market.
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 15:14:33 GMT -5
I give up.
I am sick of this forum software screwing-up the formatting of quotes, and losing huge chunks of text.
Sorry, but I've tried multiple times to manually retrieve links and text in this post, and I've had enough of it getting garbled and discarded.
on a phone its nightmare, even equating on Desktop is impossible, but I've managed to insert images, simply copying hosted image link, making space where I intend to post it, click on a image icon (6'th from the right) paste, insert image and vualia! Like this one, in relation to the Freud 40t blade being 1mm, not 1.3mm |
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iban
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Post by iban on Aug 27, 2020 15:41:31 GMT -5
First approach. Scoring postimg.cc/jL5MCwT9Cut is awesome. Very very clean But there is that famous shadow gap. Is it normal? Is much thinner than 1mm but it is visible. I didn't try to score manualy, without the scoring function Ps. Can't post images 🤷🏾♂️  I'd say its good enough, near perfect cut, if anything, I suspect your saw isn't sitting on a guide rail snug enough, hence natural "toe in" is little exaggerated, close up from the ends would be more telling  Is all I have. The truth is I wasn´t holding the rail with clamps. I will make more tests but I´m not sure it will improve the gap. To be honest I was expecting a joint without that much gap  |
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Post by mafellme on Aug 27, 2020 15:42:16 GMT -5
I give up.
I am sick of this forum software screwing-up the formatting of quotes, and losing huge chunks of text.
Sorry, but I've tried multiple times to manually retrieve links and text in this post, and I've had enough of it getting garbled and discarded.
on a phone its nightmare, even equating on Desktop is impossible, but I've managed to insert images, simply copying hosted image link, making space where I intend to post it, click on a image icon (6'th from the right) paste, insert image and vualia! Like this one, in relation to the Freud 40t blade being 1mm, not 1.3mm
just to clarify - at first glance, that blade label appears to be saying 165mm diameter, 1mm plate thickness, 1.7mm kerf, 20mm bore diameter.
However, look again and you may notice it is actually saying 165.1 x 1.7 x 20, but they stupidly use commas instead of decimal points. It's a really moronic thing to do. I have more than ten of these blades and I promise you that there is a small rectangular box at the 6 O'clock position of the blade, and, in tiny silver writing, it states exactly the following:
freud LCL6M01064
165,1 x 1,7 / 1,3 x 20 Z40 HW n max 11500 RPM 19159248-02/20 (I presume this line is batch serial number and production date)
4310
Regarding posting images, yes, the forum works just fine for image hyperlinks hosted on other websites and servers, but it won't allow you to upload an image from your own hardrive to this forum, which I used to be able to do here, under a previous username (only changed username because I forgot my original password and no longer have the original e-mail account associated with it, so I can't retrieve it).
Regarding the Trend 162mm blades, one good thing I can say for them is that they work adequately as beer-coasters ;-)
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 15:46:44 GMT -5
I'd say its good enough, near perfect cut, if anything, I suspect your saw isn't sitting on a guide rail snug enough, hence natural "toe in" is little exaggerated, close up from the ends would be more telling Is all I have. The truth is I wasn´t holding the rail with clamps. I will make more tests but I´m not sure it will improve the gap. To be honest I was expecting a joint without that much gap yes, yes, blame the saw first, not the user !  Ouch! you are 1.5* degree of square  |
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iban
Full Member
Posts: 111
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Post by iban on Aug 27, 2020 15:58:01 GMT -5
freeimage.host/i/d62SDbThe 2 knobs for tightning the saw to the rail are stuck. Really tight. That tight that I can only turn them with pliers. I managed to loose them a little with the help of a few drops of wd40 and force them to turn with pliers. Any idea on what can help? I registered the saw to get 3 years warranty. Perhaps is time to start using it There's star drive (torx) crew on the other side to adjust knob tension. It goes like you release the torx, turn knob until it becomes tight, back up 1/4 and tighten the torx screw Thanks for the help. Not sure if I understand... I released the plastic tab removing the torx screw as you can see in the picture. But the knob still is super tight I can´t find a way to loosen it appart from turning the know with pliers and causing friction... |
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iban
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Posts: 111
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Post by iban on Aug 27, 2020 16:00:07 GMT -5
Is all I have. The truth is I wasn´t holding the rail with clamps. I will make more tests but I´m not sure it will improve the gap. To be honest I was expecting a joint without that much gap yes, yes, blame the saw first, not the user ! Ouch! you are 1.5* degree of square Ok I will test more before I blame this old red machine  |
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 16:02:17 GMT -5
just to clarify - at first glance, that blade label appears to be saying 165mm diameter, 1mm plate thickness, 1.7mm kerf, 20mm bore diameter.
well spotted!
However, look again and you may notice it is actually saying 165.1 x 1.7 x 20, but they stupidly use commas instead of decimal points. It's a really moronic thing to do. I have more than ten of these blades and I promise you that there is a small rectangular box at the 6 O'clock position of the blade, and, in tiny silver writing, it states exactly the following:
freud LCL6M01064
165,1 x 1,7 / 1,3 x 20 Z40 HW n max 11500 RPM 19159248-02/20 (I presume this line is batch serial number and production date)
4310
Sounds, as I shall check few of them floating in the van, if you are 100% right, BUT (here it comes)
Somehow, when I use Freud blades, I find them "gidering"- vibrating way more than Bosh Precision blades
Regarding posting images, yes, the forum works just fine for image hyperlinks hosted on other websites and servers, but it won't allow you to upload an image from your own hardrive to this forum, which I used to be able to do here, under a previous username (only changed username because I forgot my original password and no longer have the original e-mail account associated with it, so I can't retrieve it).
Regarding the Trend 162mm blades, one good thing I can say for them is that they work adequately as beer-coasters ;-) Bit harsh!   OK, then, purely to be annoying, next to the desktops settings there's button [add attachment] .... failed! " Preview Unable to upload file 1 Tease.jpg. Error: This forum has exceeded its attachment space limit. Your file cannot be uploaded." |
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 16:05:06 GMT -5
There's star drive (torx) crew on the other side to adjust knob tension. It goes like you release the torx, turn knob until it becomes tight, back up 1/4 and tighten the torx screw Not sure if I understand... I released the plastic tab removing the torx screw as you can see in the picture. But the knob still is super tight I can´t find a way to loosen it appart from turning the know with pliers and causing friction... on the top (the actual knob side (hard to get to)) there's black torx screw inside black plastic knob |
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 16:09:44 GMT -5
yes, yes, blame the saw first, not the user ! Ouch! you are 1.5* degree of square Ok I will test more before I blame this old red machine I'm fairly certain, you tightened angle adjuster knob in "Undercut" position release the angle knob, move the saw over to the right, you should hear click, move back to 0, tighten the knob and yes... clamp the guide for perfect, especially melanine cutting work!  |
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Post by mafellme on Aug 27, 2020 16:13:54 GMT -5
Regarding the Trend 162mm blades, one good thing I can say for them is that they work adequately as beer-coasters ;-)
  Indeed!  Trend know better, and they are capable of doing better, but they are choosing not to. They're just making a fast buck on a lazily-sourced mediocre product, because they happened to notice that there's an under-served niche in the market for 162mm blades. They're doing much the same thing with some of their router bits, but still charging over the odds for them, regardless. So, harsh, yes, but I believe deservedly so. |
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iban
Full Member
Posts: 111
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Post by iban on Aug 27, 2020 16:33:58 GMT -5
Not sure if I understand... I released the plastic tab removing the torx screw as you can see in the picture. But the knob still is super tight I can´t find a way to loosen it appart from turning the know with pliers and causing friction... on the top (the actual knob side (hard to get to)) there's black torx screw inside black plastic knob Really? How couldn´t I see it? you don´t have a photo of that. Do you?? |
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Post by alvychippy on Aug 27, 2020 16:37:55 GMT -5
on the top (the actual knob side (hard to get to)) there's black torx screw inside black plastic knob Really? How couldn´t I see it? you don´t have a photo of that. Do you?? ooops... too late for me, mixed up with Hilti saw... googled up mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/913/wafell... sorry mate, you are correct, its from the bottom, that is adjusted (assembled) I clearly need to hit the pillow, if I'll find some spare time tomorrow- I'll check it on mine MT55, that is fairly stiff, but certainly not pliers stiff |
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Post by aas on Aug 28, 2020 0:26:47 GMT -5
but they stupidly use commas instead of decimal points. It's a really moronic thing to do. A lot of European countries use commas instead of decimal points (of course they don't call it a decimal comma - decimal point is an English language phrase!). Even if you use a computer with Excel or LibreOffice - depending on what language or country it is set to, it won't recognise the decimal point and say error as it is expecting a comma. Some countries use comma separators between thousands, others use spaces... and then there is America who still like inches and fractions!.. but that's another story! |
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