luketheduke
New Member
www.lignumcarpentry.co.uk
Posts: 36 
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Post by luketheduke on Jun 5, 2020 4:52:33 GMT -5
Im interested to see what people have made with their ddf 40, the reason being is that like so many others im deciding between the two dominos and the ddf40...
What i'd like to find out is if anyone has built large joinery with the ddf40 such as staircases and doors etc. At the moment im using an old wadkin morticer to handle that sort of thing but if the ddf40 could replace it that would push me towards buying the mafell.
I'd also like to know what smaller joinery its used for i know its perfect for carcasses but what about cabinet doors?
Sorry if this has been covered previously i tried to look but didnt see anything.
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Post by jameshowison on Jun 15, 2020 13:14:29 GMT -5
Just keeping the conversation going. I'm doing a kitchen with the DDF40 at the moment. 3/4 (aka ~17mm) cabinets, 1/2 (aka ~12mm) drawers. Baltic birch. 17mm gets 8mm, 12mm gets 6mm dowels. Pros: - Extremely easy to dry assemble, which is great. - Dust control is really impressive - Very accurate for the 17mm - Easy to add a pocket hole between the 32mm spaced dowels if you don't want to glue a joint. Cons: - 12mm a little harder as you can't use the spacing from the flat base (which is 9.5mm), so when end-boring you are hanging in space. I'm considering using some 1/4mm ply as a "booster" to lift the 12mm. I've also used 10mm bits for placing the adjustable cabinet feet. That's been great. I'm using 5mm bits for holes for drawer slides and hinges. Those are a little harder to get right, mostly because it's hard to ensure perpendicular to the cabinet front. I'm now using cut chunks of wood as spacers. Frustrating to get 37mm from front of cabinet while going perpendicular, have to use the little offset thing. Perhaps I should use the fence for the first row, with the SA 320 giving the spacing between the drawer slides, then turn 90° and using the SA 320 to get the setback for the other row of holes. Sorry, that probably didn't make much sense  At first I would sometimes get badly aligned holes on different pieces, but now I mirror the end-bore and face-bore (as in the videos) and have many fewer misplaced holes For cabinet doors it's great for the attachment holes on the cabinet, but I'm using the Blum Ecodrill for the boring in the cabinet door. Happily the ecodrill and the ddf40 are basically the same width, so easy to get things aligned. I thought perhaps that the ddf40 could do the two small holes, then use a guide for the 35mm bore, but I can't see a way to make that work (as the spacing of the small holes is not 32mm). |
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Post by matchesder on Sept 29, 2020 5:18:09 GMT -5
deciding between the two dominos and the ddf40... Hi luketheduke, the DDF40 is probaly more flexible than the DD40 (g or p). It is not your question, but I write this because I only know the DD40p, never handled the DDF. The DD is limited by 40 mm plunge depth, the Domino XL has nearly double that. But it is relativly big and heavy. I found if you use one domino for registration (small cut) and the rest with tolerance, you still have a little room for correction. Like a mm or so. Presumably depending on the wood. Soft wood will give more room. With double dowels the parts are fix. The big D14 knock down fixings seem good for bigger stuff like a table, bed or so. The smaller version does not appeal to me. The DD helps placing holes for regular knock down fixings. I used it at a table. But for cabinets (I like to build speakers) Lamello is a win. The P-System is very nice. You can put knock down fixings in as thin as 12 mm. Cons: - 12mm a little harder as you can't use the spacing from the flat base (which is 9.5mm), so when end-boring you are hanging in space. I'm considering using some 1/4mm ply as a "booster" to lift the 12mm. That was the intended way to use the predecessor and the Dominos. I reccomend to reference from the same side for both mating parts. That is either from the base or from the fence. |
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