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Post by whippet on Feb 17, 2020 14:14:23 GMT -5
Recently bought a MT55 used from e bay , first use today , saw in excellent used condition but ....... noticed that the plastic depth adjustment is loose where it joins the cast metal housing on examination the piece of housing that forms a spigot for the adjuster to screw into is snapped . It’s not a massive fault the saw works fine but anyone come across the same problem and how was it best fixed
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Post by aas on Feb 17, 2020 16:10:05 GMT -5
Sounds like my MT55 when I first purchased it... dealer was great and replaced it quickly... sounds like it was dropped during shipping. Get a photo up if you can, photos can't be hosted directly here, try - vgy.me - seems to work for most of us. Easy enough to source spare parts and do repairs.
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Post by whippet on Feb 17, 2020 16:54:41 GMT -5
Sounds like my MT55 when I first purchased it... dealer was great and replaced it quickly... sounds like it was dropped during shipping. Get a photo up if you can, photos can't be hosted directly here, try - vgy.me - seems to work for most of us. Easy enough to source spare parts and do repairs. Thank you for the reply , will try and get a photo up tomorrow but from what I can see the ‘spigot’ is part of the grey metal blade housing and not the plastic adjustment assembly , returning is not really an option due to it being an eBay purchase from a private seller type
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Post by aas on Feb 17, 2020 16:57:36 GMT -5
Reclaim through Paypal... shipping should have been insured...
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Post by kraftt on Feb 17, 2020 21:45:47 GMT -5
... from what I can see the ‘spigot’ is part of the grey metal blade housing ... That boss (spigot) has a hollow area behind it (open blade door) that 'almost' allows for the head of a screw to center in, if you ground the head down some - or for a small nut to reside. If top of boss is missing you could even build it back up with JB Weld Steel Stick. A bolt running through everything will make it a very sound & secure attachment. Another option would be to drill through base of broken boss / metal blade housing and re-tap a new thread if it's thick enough and use a new machine screw to match. Again might have to grind down head or instead use a hex/allen head. If boss alignment to that hollow area, visible when blade door is open, is too close to its sides for a nut or bolt head you can just fill the entire area in with epoxy and then pre drill and sink a sheetmetal thread screw into it from boss side.
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Post by whippet on Feb 18, 2020 1:17:19 GMT -5
... from what I can see the ‘spigot’ is part of the grey metal blade housing ... That boss (spigot) has a hollow area behind it (open blade door) that 'almost' allows for the head of a screw to center in, if you ground the head down some - or for a small nut to reside. If top of boss is missing you could even build it back up with JB Weld Steel Stick. A bolt running through everything will make it a very sound & secure attachment. Another option would be to drill through base of broken boss / metal blade housing and re-tap a new thread if it's thick enough and use a new machine screw to match. Again might have to grind down head or instead use a hex/allen head. If boss alignment to that hollow area, visible when blade door is open, is too close to its sides for a nut or bolt head you can just fill the entire area in with epoxy and then pre drill and sink a sheetmetal thread screw into it from boss side. Thank you for the reply , a few ideas for me to have a go at , it’s not that big a drama just prefer it fixed and solid , thanks again👍
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Post by kraftt on Feb 18, 2020 9:49:41 GMT -5
Absolutely. As you probably know that black Nylon plunge gauge mechanically serves a few functions and is only held on by two screws. One function is to hold the other half of a urethane bumper in place (plunge trigger safety stop). With the other end of that bumper held by a cup on the metal blade housing. So the plastic plunge gauge & metal blade housing work together in securing bumper/stop at both ends. When blade returns from a plunge an arm on the metal motor casing is designed to hit on the opposite side of that urethane bumper to stop blade teeth from hitting the interior of blade housing. Then the opposite end of the metal motor stop arm (whose other end hits bumper) hits the adjustable part of the gauge stop on the plastic depth gauge. So if the top screw is loose we’re asking only one screw, very close to the base of the saw, to secure the upper parts that take constant impact. Not inconceivable that these features could be bypassed at the wrong time.
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